Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Horn switch install

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Electrical: Horn switch install

    Trying to install a new horn switch, which my car did not have when I got it. Does the switch just get attached directly to the plate, or is there supposed to be some type of insulator under?
    Attached Files

  • #2
    The plate with the spring loaded pin attaches with two small machine screws. You can see one of the holes just above the plate. The spring loaded pin sticks up.
    Last edited by r1lark; 06-17-2025, 10:01 AM. Reason: Spellin'
    Paul
    Winston-Salem, NC
    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
    Check out my YouTube channel here: www.youtube.com/@r1lark
    Check out my NOS Studebaker parts For Sale here: http://partsforsale.studebakerskytop.com

    Comment


    • #3
      The Switch is a "Grounding" Switch, so you can't insulate it.

      The plunger should contact the Brass Plate that should be under the steering wheel, with the Turn Signal Cancel Coil attached.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner
      SDC Member Since 1967

      Comment


      • #4
        Here is a pic of the underside of my steering wheel. Is everything there that should be? Not sure what you are referring to with "Turn signal contact Coil"
        Attached Files

        Comment


        • StudeRich
          StudeRich commented
          Editing a comment
          It's the tripper piece that cancels the Turn Signal after a turn.

      • #5
        Sorry, wrong picture
        Attached Files

        Comment


        • #6
          Turn the steering wheel over, and take a picture of it and post it. Then we can tell you if you have all the parts.

          I take it that you don't have a Parts Manual for your car. That would be a wise purchase for these types of questions.
          Paul
          Winston-Salem, NC
          Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
          Check out my YouTube channel here: www.youtube.com/@r1lark
          Check out my NOS Studebaker parts For Sale here: http://partsforsale.studebakerskytop.com

          Comment


          • #7
            Thank you: I think I have the turn signal and horn parts installed correctly; however, when I try to attach the steering wheel, it will not seat all the way down..
            There is a little nub that sticks out on the snap ring; could that be why??
            Gonna try to find a parts manual...
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • #8
              Not sure what you are calling the 'snap ring' - do you mean the thick round metal circle that holds the brass plate on? If so, that 'nub' is what cancels the turn signal switch when you are making a turn - it's supposed to be there.

              Some more pics might help us provide you more advice.
              Paul
              Winston-Salem, NC
              Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
              Check out my YouTube channel here: www.youtube.com/@r1lark
              Check out my NOS Studebaker parts For Sale here: http://partsforsale.studebakerskytop.com

              Comment


              • #9
                OK, so I think I have everything installed correctly thanks to you guys. Putting steering wheel back on - a problem... there is a gap between the where and column as you can see.
                Can't for the life me get it any further down,, using much force as I can. Suggestions? Sorry for being Szuch a PIA .
                Attached Files

                Comment


                • #10
                  Clearly there is something inside not correctly assembled and hitting.
                  I have to wonder about the clocking of the turn signal cancel ring, it would matter for it to fit and work properly and at this time I do not know where it should be positioned on the wheel.
                  StudeRich
                  Second Generation Stude Driver,
                  Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                  SDC Member Since 1967

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    Couple of comments.................

                    Make sure that the stamped line on the metal plate on the steering wheel lines up with the stamped line on the end of the shaft. Doesn't help your stated issues, but these should be lined up so so when the steering wheel is straight ahead, the steering box is on it's high center.

                    As to StudeRich's comment/question about the clocking of the turn signal cancel ring, I'm 98 percent sure that the 'nub' (or whatever you want to call it) is supposed to be at 9 o'clock.

                    As far as the steering wheel having a large gap between the wheel and the column..............as long as you feel all the horn parts are not keeping the wheel from seating down fully on the steering shaft taper, I believe that the outer sleeve of the steering column needs to be adjusted slightly. To do this, loosen the clamp under the dashboard, and loosen the clamp where the steering column outer sleeve clamps to the steering box. Slide the column up towards the steering wheel to close the gap. Don't get it too close or it will rub. Also, remember that there is a nub and slot arrangement where the column outer sleeve slides over the steering box to locate it in the correct "o'clock" position. In other words, you won't be able to twist the column sleeve...........you will only be able to slide it up or down. When you get the column and steering wheel gap the way you want it, tighten the clamp at the steering box and the clamp under the dashboard.
                    Paul
                    Winston-Salem, NC
                    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
                    Check out my YouTube channel here: www.youtube.com/@r1lark
                    Check out my NOS Studebaker parts For Sale here: http://partsforsale.studebakerskytop.com

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      My main concern is whether the wheel is down far enough to fully engine the splines on the column. It seems to hit something right where the spline on the column starts.. It fit fine before I took it off to add a new turn signal switch and horn switch. I'll check your suggestions to see if the problem reveals itself. Thanks!

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        Originally posted by jadiggle3354 View Post
                        My main concern is whether the wheel is down far enough to fully engine the splines on the column. It seems to hit something right where the spline on the column starts.. It fit fine before I took it off to add a new turn signal switch and horn switch. I'll check your suggestions to see if the problem reveals itself. Thanks!
                        Any of the splines on the shaft or steering wheel damaged? When the wheel is installed all the way down, does the threaded portion of the shaft stick out enough for the nut thickness plus at least 3 or 4 threads? You could do some measuring of the wheel and the shaft to figure out how much of the threaded portion of the shaft has to stick out past the metal plate on the steering wheel to fully engage the splines.

                        Is the turn signal cancel ring fully seated down against the brass plate?

                        How much of the column did you disassemble? Did you remove the intermediate piece that the turn signal assembly fits into, and the tapered piece under it? (I believe you would have to replace the turn signal switch; didn't realize until your latest post that you replaced the turn signal switch.) So, sometimes getting the two special square headed bolts and the nuts that hold those pieces in the correct place takes a couple of tries. If these two pieces are are not down properly (sticking up too far) this could be causing your problem.

                        Paul
                        Winston-Salem, NC
                        Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
                        Check out my YouTube channel here: www.youtube.com/@r1lark
                        Check out my NOS Studebaker parts For Sale here: http://partsforsale.studebakerskytop.com

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          The only thing I did on this job was to add a new turn signal switch and horn switch. Nothing else. I double checked all the nuts and all are tight. Everything looks to be in place correctly. I did some measurements as suggested, and it appears that most if not all the splines are engaged on the threads. As you can see, there are only a couple of threads sticking out from the nut. The marks on the steering shaft and plate line up. The "nub" is clocked at 9 o'clock. The wheel always bottoms out with no way to close the gap. I'm thinking that this was the way it was when I got the car.
                          Attached Files

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            Joseph, that looks right as far as the nut. You do an close up the gap between the column and the wheel by adjusting the outer column sleeve as detailed in post # 11.
                            Paul
                            Winston-Salem, NC
                            Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
                            Check out my YouTube channel here: www.youtube.com/@r1lark
                            Check out my NOS Studebaker parts For Sale here: http://partsforsale.studebakerskytop.com

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X