Engine: Removing Engine/Transmission from a Zip Van.

[gordr]

I know the front subframe comes out with all the goodies attached, but where do you find the bolts? Does the front bumper stay with the vehicle, or does it have to come off for clearance. Looks like the steering box remains attached to the body, so one separates the drag link at one end. I guess axle end is easiest to reach. Where do you hitch onto the body with an overhead hoist to lift it free of the subframe?

This particular Zip has nothing left of the transmission aft of the torque converter and bell housing. I have a decent-running 170 OHV, with a working Type 35 auto behind it, and plan to use those. I know the Type 35 is considered too weak for a working Zip van, but this one is going to see nothing but gentle local driving, and not a lot of that. I will put pickup backing plates on the rear axle to have a parking brake.

[StudeRich]

These may be of little help because I can't remember Where exactly the Mounting bolts were Gord.
In 2009 Mike did a restoration on one of many of James Bell's Zip Van Engine Cradles.

[gordr]

That helps, Rich. Looks like the steering gear stays in the body, and it looks like the cradle attachment bolts enter the cradle from the outer sides. I see bolt heads there.

[gordr]

Success! Took me about 4 1/2 hours. I will not call these "steps", because for most, no order need be followed. How about "tasks"? Task 1: separate adjustable rod end on drag link from ball stud on Pitman arm. Easy! Task 2: cut exhaust pipe in the straight stretch near the bell housing. Would have been easy if my cordless reciprocating saw was not mostly dead. Had to use a manual pipe cutter. Task 3: disconnect supply pipe (from master cylinder) to the tee on the subframe. Easy. Task 4: disconnect heater hoses from engine. Could have cut them, too, since they are too old to be trusted. Easy. Task 5: Disconnect all wires, vacuum lines, and oil pressure line to gauge. All had been pre-done, but I had to check. Ditto for transmission and throttle linkage. Task 6: Cut fuel line in left front wheel well. Could have uncoupled it, but going to replace, anyway. Task 7: small body bracket just forward of radiator support. Two 3/8" bolts. Easy. Task 8" all six 1/2" bolts that hold subframe to body. At this point the van was supported by jack stands under the axle, and I had the pad of the floor jack taking a little weight, too. Some of those bolts were stubborn, but eventually I rattled them all out with the air impact. There is now nothing but impacted rust holding the subframe in the body. Task 9: jack up axle, and remove jack stands. Position gantry hoist over front bumper, and hook onto front bumper with the chain hoist. Up came the body, and so did the subframe. A little judicious prying with a screwdriver initiated the parting, and out it came. No hidden fasteners, woo-hoo! I had to jack up the now-free subframe a little and place blocks under it so I could retrieve my floor jack. With that done, I hoisted the front of the body until there was several inches clearance for the radiator cap. Then I fired up my tractor, hitched onto the subframe with a chain, and dragged it clear of the body, no damage being done. Note: the subframe with engine and bellhousing on it is very rear-heavy. Would be worse with an intact transmission. I was working outside on the grass, so a dolly was not really going to be useful. I have some pallet forks I made for the bucket on my tractor's loader, and I will probably use them to replace the subframe when it has been serviced, and a "new" power plant installed.

[StudeRich]

Good Job as usual Gord !

Remember, if you have a halfway decent Flight-O-Matic that was in it, they are pretty special, being Oil/Water Cooled, H.D. and Low Gear Start, even though designed for a Six, they are way tough enough for a V8.

[gordr]

Rich, all that was left of the Flightomatic is the bellhousing and converter. And a handful of pieces on the floor. It's going to get a Type 35 automatic. Also first gear start, of course. Not like this van is ever going to be used for more than short, unladen pleasure trips.

[t walgamuth]

I'd go with the stock rear end if possible.

[gordr]

I'd go with the stock rear end if possible.

Yes, it is there, and has the right gearing for the little six. It's a 45 mph vehicle, and should be driven that way.

[gordr]

Update: got the (stuck solidly) engine out of the cradle, and set aside. It has a massive canister-style full-flow filter on it. Got the now-empty subframe hoisted up and securely set on a pair of steel barrels, and have begun chipping off a thick crust of crud.

[gordr]

Sunday update: got nearly all the crust, rust, and old paint off the subframe, and have begun applying rust-converting primer. Took the bent tie rod off, cleaned it, straightened it, and painted it. Looks real nice. Took the shocks (Monro-Matics) off; they seem to be OK. Cleaned them up on the wire wheel, and painted them metallic bronze with a rattle can. Pulled the brake drums. Front shoes almost new! Wheel cylinders stuck, drums have been turned. and are clean inside. Inner wheel bearing on one side was junk. I have spares for that. Looks like they used Cosmoline for wheel bearing grease; stuff was like tar.

I will have to go to the store for a can of black rust paint. My cupboard is bare of that color.

[gordr]

Got the subframe back upright, sitting on a pair of barrels, and got a little more primer on it. Decided the right side kingpin was too sloppy. Took it apart, and it became clear that the lock pin holding the king pin in the axle beam was never properly seated, but the bushings, particularly the lower one, were sloppy, too. The king pin itself has no obvious wear. And when I was washing the thrust bearing in the solvent tank, it spit out pieces of two broken balls. I had a 2R5 axles in my stock that I had put new kingins and bushings in nearly 40 years ago, so I disassembled that, and have good parts to replace those in the Zip van. Sort of wondering if V8 connecting rod clamp bolts would work as lock pins? Seem very close in size.

[gordr]

Further update: got the kingpin job done, and they are just about perfect. Right side, I pressed the good bushings out of my donor axle spindles, and the bad ones out of the Zip van spindles, and swapped in the good ones. Used the good thrust bearing from the donor axle, too. Turns freely, no slop. And yes! V8 connecting rod clamp bolts are a perfect replacement for the taper lock pins, Same O.D., same tapered flat. And long enough that I could use the nut to draw them up tight. Left side; wasn't sloppy but the thrust bearing upside down. Knocked the kingpin out, washed everything up, and that thrust bearing had broken balls in it, too. So it's good that I took it apart. Re-used the pin and bushings, because they were as-new. Now I need to buy some 1 1/16" disc style core plugs.

[gordr]

Well, I fabricated some 1 1/16" disc-style expansion plugs from old washers. Was not too difficult. Tapped them into place, and secured them with 4 small tack welds on each. Pumped grease into the zerks, and tiny curls of grease leaked out from three of the plugs. Which happens sometimes with factory-made plugs, too. At least they will dust and road splash out of the bushings, which is their purpose. Got the shocks and the brake backing plates installed, too.