Can't find Jim Pepper's post about breaking in a new V8 engine. Anyone have it handy? Thanks.
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V8 Engine Break-in
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Several people have posted logical methods here on how to do that, all pretty much the same.
To start off, you could have Seven Qts. on hand of a High ZDDP Oil like Valvoline VR1 Racing or "other" break-in Oil.
6 Qts. with filter, and a spare for the trunk.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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With the engine at temperature, run full throttle from 40 to 60 ten times. That burns the oil off the cylinder walls and seats the rings. Then 50 to 70 ten times. After engine cool down, check valve adjustment, Change the oil and filter after 500 miles. Been doing this for over 50 years.
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I break Stude rebuilds in the same way I used to with Harley shovel and pan heads: Keep steady RPM low, below 2000 or so for the first 5 minutes; below 3000 or so for the first half hour, then occasionally rev to 4000 or so during the first 1-2 hour run in, in the shop. Then, on the road, (with OD locked out) keep speeds to 50 or less for the first 50 miles, then 60 or less the next 500 miles, then ad lib. Never had a problem with cam / lifter break-in by doing it this way, and usually do first oil change in 500 miles. As for ring break-in, usually only 500 miles or so for moly; 1000 or so for cast iron, and 3000 or so for chrome rings. But ring break-in rate also depends heavily on final hone grit: 360-400 for moly; 320 or so for cast iron, and 220 or so for chrome. Moly and iron rings aren't too particular, but if you don't use a coarse hone for chrome rings they may never fully break-in.
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