Engine: 1950 Champion valve job

[Tom Mountain]

i have a 1950 Champion that basically came with new pistons, valves & bearings + gasketsand now needs aseembled. does anyone have a 'Engine Rebuild for DUMMIEs' ?? i have the "Shop Manuel" but my mind freezes up reading thru all the Tear Down instructions
Thank You

[yeroldad]

If you have never rebuilt a motor, find someone who has, someone with experience. It's easy to screw up or fail to do just one little thing and then your rebuilt motor, that you have a lot of money and time into, will become junk. I HIGHLY recommend it!

[Tom Mountain]

If you have never rebuilt a motor, find someone who has, someone with experience. It's easy to screw up or fail to do just one little thing and then your rebuilt motor, that you have a lot of money and time into, will become junk. I HIGHLY recommend it!

i have rebuilt some engines in the past, and i have the 'Shop Manual, and as i said reading the boring stuff makes my eyes glaze over. i did get some estimates......WOW, Vegas is always looking for a Sucker
Thank You

[PackardV8]

As mentioned above, unless you have professional measuring instruments and know how to use them, just assembling unknown parts can result in problems.

Have someone who knows how measure the valve guide ID; we've never seen a used Champion which did not need the valve guides replaced.

In the past, I'd have said measure the lifter bore ID, because those are always worn. It's now moot, as the oversize lifters are NLA.

Do you have any knowledge the cylinders were honed to match the pistons?

Once all the machining is done on the valvetrain, it's time to measure the main bearing bore ID. We've found a few Champions which needed line honing.

We always resize the rod big end bores.

If you don't have the ability to do any of the above, at least use Plastigage to check rod and main bearing clearance.

jack vines

[Tom Mountain]

Thank You Jack, i did not give enough details in my request for rebuild instructions; this engine has been out to a 'machine shop' by the previous owner. Now i have to assemble it. Oh and it is a 1956 "Sweepstake 185" in the 1950 Champion.(i haven't figured out how to edit my original post)
the cylindars and pistons are .030, the bearings are new. i appreciate the advice, Thank You

[PackardV8]

Are the valve guides new?

Were the block and head surfaced?

The Champion experts will have to comment, but IIRC, there are differences between the 1950 and '55-'58 oil pans. Which pan and oil pump pickup will Tom need to install the 185" in the 1950?

jack vines

[Tom Mountain]

Are the valve guides new?

Were the block and head surfaced?

The Champion experts will have to comment, but IIRC, there are differences between the 1950 and '55-'58 oil pans. Which pan and oil pump pickup will Tom need to install the 185" in the 1950?

jack vines

the 185 was bolted into the '50 Champ, and it was operational with this engine substitute.

[Tom Mountain]

As mentioned above, unless you have professional measuring instruments and know how to use them, just assembling unknown parts can result in problems.

Have someone who knows how measure the valve guide ID; we've never seen a used Champion which did not need the valve guides replaced.

In the past, I'd have said measure the lifter bore ID, because those are always worn. It's now moot, as the oversize lifters are NLA.

Do you have any knowledge the cylinders were honed to match the pistons?

Once all the machining is done on the valvetrain, it's time to measure the main bearing bore ID. We've found a few Champions which needed line honing.

We always resize the rod big end bores.

If you don't have the ability to do any of the above, at least use Plastigage to check rod and main bearing clearance.

jack vines

i talked to the people at "Sin City" Permormance, owner Andy Sensi. they have down some work on Studebakers before, so i feel i can trust them; also they have been there a Long time. Of course at $185.00 an hour my wallet will feel the sting. At least i can move on to the wire harness replacement and a complete brake job plus fuel system. Thank You

[PackardV8]

Hi, Tom,

For the good of the order, keep us posted on what they find, what they charge and what it's like when completed.

[StudeRich]

Really ...$185.00 per hour!
The absolute highest, Most outrageous, Mechanical and Technical Labor I have ever heard of is $100.00 to 125.00 !
These people are certainly Proud of their work!

Maybe all of us over 60, retired Car folks that actually HAVE Mechanical Skills, should go back to work!

[Lark Hunter]

and as i said reading the boring stuff makes my eyes glaze over.

Ruh roh. There really isn't much fluff in a Shop Manual; it's all information that's pertinent to the job at hand. It's good that you've identified that you're not fully in precision work mode at this juncture (and there's absolutely nothing wrong with that), before you've gone ahead and assembled the engine.

I do all of my own work, so I really don't have a good idea of what shop labor rates are these days. The costs of things have been pretty volatile here for awhile, so that muddies the waters even a little more. I think the most important consideration is going to be the knowledge and quality of work coming from the shop you choose, as well as their familiarity and comfortability with working on a vintage cars. Someone Studebaker specific would be great, though there are a number of vintage auto specialists who are versatile and meticulous enough that they can handle stuff outside of what they typically work on. I worked at a shop in Tucson that specializes in British cars, but took on things as diverse as a 1933 Franklin, 1950 Land Cruiser, Willys Jeepster, Volvo PV544, Datsun 521 pickup, and performed a full restoration of an early 6 cylinder Chevrolet that arrived in boxes. I would ask around, research, read reviews, and interview anyone you're considering before dropping your engine/car off with them.

[PackardV8]

And absolutely, positively, leave your Shop Manual with them. Timing of the Champion oil pump alone flummoxes those who don't do them regularly.

jack vines

[Tom Mountain]

And absolutely, positively, leave your Shop Manual with them. Timing of the Champion oil pump alone flummoxes those who don't do them regularly.

jack vines

absolutely, they/'ll charge me an hours labor, to dig up the specs