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Bill Hirsch exhaust manifold Paint

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  • Engine: Bill Hirsch exhaust manifold Paint

    Hello All---I finally got my 289 up and running on my home made test stand, and the Bill Hirsch exhaust manifold coating (supposedly the best) burnt of the first 30 minutes. I wiped them down very well with laquer thinner, as instructed. It could be that I should have sand blasted them before applying the paint. Has anyone had success with this product? Thanks ---BassMan

  • #2
    Yes sand blasting is the best prep. don't they recommend Oven Baking them first?
    I have had good luck with Duplicolor VHT 2000 Degree Ceramic, cast iron gray for the original look.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner
    SDC Member Since 1967

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    • #3
      For some time now I have been using Eastwood Manifold paint. I have some on my car that has been on there for over 30 years I paint the entire exhaust system with it and it holds up very well. I sandblast before application, and use two coats.

      If the timing is retarded on start up and not corrected most any paint will burn off from the excess heat.

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      • #4
        Someone on the Forum recommended Rust-Oleum High Heat Ceramic Coating 2000 deg F and so that is what I bought (ordered on ebay, aluminum color). I haven't used it yet, but the recommended curing process is three cycles of heating and cooling. I'll have to do that in my kitchen oven. From the looks of the instructions it might be best to use a gas oven (to get the quick heating and cool-down times).

        --Dwight

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        • Big Dan
          Big Dan commented
          Editing a comment
          LOL! I'm not sure I'd put something with uncured paint in a gas oven that is heated by an open flame. Fumes.....BOOM! Also, be very careful subjecting cast iron to heating or cooling that is too abrupt or you'll crack it!

        • Dwight FitzSimons
          Dwight FitzSimons commented
          Editing a comment
          Big Dan, I see your point. I don't have a gas range anyway (& glad I don't). I'll have to use my electric range and do the best I can with the heating & cooling cycles. Being an electric the rise & fall in temp. won't be very severe or quick.
          --Dwight

      • #5
        Shot blast cleaning is best; sand blasting a close second. If one wants to put time into it, light polishing with a die grinder/flap wheel/belt sander will help; the smoother the surface, the better the coating will adhere and hold tight.

        Back in the day, there were ceramic coating shops which would give back a glass-smooth exhaust manifold which would last forever. Some of the classic V16s came with ceramic coated intake and exhaust manifolds. Anyone seen an advertisement for this service in Hemmings?

        jack vines

        PackardV8

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        • Big Dan
          Big Dan commented
          Editing a comment
          I had my Champion Manifold ceramic coated by "Jet Hot." It was significantly less expensive and a nicer job than I thought it would be. See my update below!

      • #6
        Just as an alternative, you might consider having them professionally coated by "Jet Hot" coatings. I had my modified Champion Exhaust manifold coated by them (ceramic, I think) and it turned out fantastic. I think the shipping and coating were all under $250!

        Here's their link: Ceramic Header & Exhaust Coating | Jet-Hot

        And a picture of my manifold. My Champion Engine is mounted in a speedboat so it was important for me to get that cast manifold properly sealed up!

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        • #7
          As another alternative you might consider Cerakote C-186 Piston coat. It is an insulating ceramic that will air dry or cure without "baking" in 5 days or so. looks great and will hold down under hood temps significantly when used on exhaust manifolds. I've had good luck with it. As with any application of this sort, prep is everything. I scrub down the part and then bead blast inside and out as I "paint" the inside and outside of the manifolds I've used this product on. Their website has lots of good info on this type of thing.

          Click image for larger version

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          • StudeRich
            StudeRich commented
            Editing a comment
            I wonder How that is supposed to work on a Piston, with only .002 clearance to fit it into?

        • #8
          If you like the color black, Rustoleum paint for charcoal grills works well and is very economical.

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          • Dwight FitzSimons
            Dwight FitzSimons commented
            Editing a comment
            I believe that this is the same thing I purchased, except for color. Walmart carries this paint in black only. I had to pay considerably more for silver online than Walmart's price for black.

        • #9
          I will offer another recommendation for Jet Hot Coat. I did the manifolds for my Hawk during the restoration process. Now it is 6 or 7 years later and they still look like they did when I installed them.
          Wayne
          "Trying to shed my CASO ways"

          sigpic

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          • #10
            StudeRich commented
            Yesterday, 09:30 PM


            I wonder How that is supposed to work on a Piston, with only .002 clearance to fit it into?


            ​Hi. Only the top of the piston is sprayed with the cerakote piston coat. See pic.
            Click image for larger version

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            • #11
              The brown coating on the piston top is a heat barrier to hold more heat in the combustion chamber. The black coating on the skirt is an anti-friction coating. Most pistons today come with coated skirts. There are bare spots on each side of the skirt to measure the piston-to-bore clearance, but the coating essentially runs at zero clearance.

              jack vines
              PackardV8

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              • StudeRich
                StudeRich commented
                Editing a comment
                Thanks Jack, obviously we are talking the coating is used on Non-Stude. Pistons, unless there is some expensive, Racing Piston Co. that COULD Custom Make some for High RPM Performance use.

            • #12
              Thanks for all your help---Sorry for the delayed response. We have been having internet connection problems. I read everyone's post. My powder coat guy is going to blast them for me and I will try again. I think was bad prep on my part. I think StudeRich is right on baking them. It's hard to get all of the oil out of them, and that might help. Thanks again---BassMan

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              • #13
                Originally posted by BassMan View Post
                Thanks for all your help---Sorry for the delayed response. We have been having internet connection problems. I read everyone's post. My powder coat guy is going to blast them for me and I will try again. I think was bad prep on my part. I think StudeRich is right on baking them. It's hard to get all of the oil out of them, and that might help. Thanks again---BassMan
                I don't think regular powder coating is going to work on exhaust manifolds. They really need to be ceramic coated. And if you have it done the people applying the coating will know how to prep - and will have a warrantee on their work. Up to you........ Good luck with it.

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