Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Finally started my 289

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Engine: Finally started my 289

    Hello All---Hope you are well. I pulled the 289 from my 57 hawk about 6 months ago for a complete rebuild. It was a bigger job than I thought and not without problems. But it did fire up and run ok--not great. I started it with the old distributor even though I have a billet Pertronix unit I am going to use. Unfortunately, the front seal leaked. I used a modern seal from Phil Harris at Fairborn Studebaker so it would not leak. So much for the best laid plans. I believe I did not get enough sealant on the front of the seal, so probably my fault. So, I took the front of the engine back apart and reinstalled with a new seal using more care the 2nd time. I also made a special alignment tool to be sure that the seal was on center. No leaks so far after 15 minutes of running--I'll cross my fingers.

    I have run the engine for a total of about 40 minutes or so. The first time I shut if down after 15 minutes or so because I felt like it was running a little too hot. I put a brand new temperature gauge in, and it only read 150 degrees. I used a point and shoot temperature sensor to read temperature at the thermostat housing and got 220 degrees, so I decided to turn the engine off. I later checked the mechanical gauge in a pot of boiling water and it read about 150 degrees when the water just started to boil. I guess the gauge is defective. I took the thermostat out of the car and ran it the next time with no thermostat. It took longer to heat up this time and after about 15 minutes of running it was showing 190 at the thermostat housing using the infrared hand held sensor. The other mechanical gauge was reading about 145 degrees or so. ( note: The mechanical gauge was inserted into the upper radiator hose upside down so the water was in good contact with the sensor ). If I had to do this again I would put the gauge in the block. I shut the engine down. I have some general questions---I was reading 750 to 800 degrees at the middle of the exhaust manifolds. Is it common for exhaust manifolds on a 289 to get that hot??? I was running at 2200 rpm the whole time because of breaking in the cam. I also varied the rpm's from 2000 to 2500 during the cam break in. So basically the cam break in was done in three sessions. After running the car for 20 minutes , I let it cool down and checked all the valve clearances---they had not changed at all from the original settings ( I think .025 but I'm going on my poor memory ). My main concern is temperature---that 750 degrees bothers me. I used Amsoil break in oil for the first two runs. Then I checked the valves. I drained all the oil out and refilled the engine with new oil for the last run. The oil looks ok to me and I have not picked up anything with the magnet yet. Your input is appreciated.. BassMan Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5906.jpg
Views:	395
Size:	101.9 KB
ID:	2020590

  • #2
    Congratulations! BassMan!!

    Comment


    • #3
      Sounds like it's running a bit warm, but good call on cross checking the gauge and then shutting it down, 220 was definitely pushing the limit for initial run in. What is the piston to cylinder wall clearance your machinist bored it to? What pistons are you using? If they are KB hypers, what did you gap the top rings at? Did you go with OEM piston dish, or shallow dish? For head gaskets, did you use OEM shim style, or OEM sandwich, or fiber composite? What weight oil, and what was the oil pressure?
      Joe H

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks for your input. Joe, I'll try and answer some of the questions. The pistons were OEM from Studebaker International--or at least I am assuming they were stock pistons. As I recall they are dished but just flat on top. They fit smoothly in the bores. If memory serves me right, the bore diameters were right on size at .040 over ( I used a bore gauge to check size and roundness ). I don't remember what size the pistons were as of this writing--as far as clearance in the bores. I do remember being a little worried about there not being enough clearance between the piston and the bores, but for some reason I did not write down the piston diameters in my paper work. Everything turned over smoothly before I installed the heads. I just looked at my data and it looks like the gaps on the top rings were set at .016 to .018. I made sure everything was within spec according to the book. I do not remember what the book says as I am writing this without looking it up. I do remember I had to buy 2 sets of rings to get the gaps that I wanted. I expected to get some smoke at the exhaust pipes but I did not see that. The exhaust is clear.
        The head gaskets are also from SI . They were part of the rebuild kit. They were metal shims and I used a spray on copper coat at assembly. The break in oil was Amsoil 30 weight. Joe---what about the exhaust manifold temps? Is 750 degrees at the middle of the exhaust manifold too high? I have read that they can get pretty hot in normal operation.

        Oil pressure hit about 85 lbs at initial start with the 30 weight oil. When the engine was hot it ran about 45 lbs at 2200 rpm. At 1000 rpm hot it seemed to hover around 20 lbs. At 800 rpm I assume it will be lower, but I my idle screw was set higher and I did not want to slow idle the engine at this point. I wanted a little higher pressure .

        Charlie---Thanks for chiming in--------------BassMan

        Comment


        • #5
          I forgot to mention one thing ( I just remembered ). I gave the engine shop the new pistons so they could fit them in the bores. I assumed they knew what they were doing. I have never rebuilt an engine, but one of the things I am learning is " never assume anything "----BassMan

          Comment


          • #6
            I have a stupid question. When I put a timing light on my engine, which side of the upper dead center is advanced and which side is retarded ? I am assuming that everything to the right as your facing the engine is advanced. Thanks ---BassMan

            Comment


            • #7
              Retarded on the left (conterclockwise) and advance on the right (clockwise). Happy to read that your initial startup went without too much troubles. If I understand well, you switched to Amsoil breaking oil instead of Castrol?
              sigpic

              Comment


              • enjenjo
                enjenjo commented
                Editing a comment
                Are you sure about this? Every Clockwise rotation engine I have worked on advance was to the left, anticlockwise on the timing marks. Retarded timing can make the engine heat up more.

            • #8
              How hot did the room get while running the engine ? Were you recycling hot air thru the radiator ? Try puttng a window fan in front of the test bed you built , Nice job by the way. Ed

              Comment


              • #9
                Thank You All !!

                Comment


                • #10
                  You describe rotation from the driver's seat ?

                  Comment


                  • enjenjo
                    enjenjo commented
                    Editing a comment
                    If your are referring to my comment the engine turns clockwise looking from the front. In relation to the timing mark the advance marks are on the left side of the timing mark
                Working...
                X