Ignition: 1957 Golden Hawk Ignition Switch

[6hk71400]

I had an earlier post about a short that I assumed was from the overdrive kick down switch. Today was the first day after the usual doctor appointments over the last 2 months to get under the hood. First observation: it was not the overdrive kick down switch but the supercharger solenoid that had come loose. It is now secure and I checked the wiring and the only thing affected was the outer black covering but none of the wiring was burned. Yippee.

I hooked up the battery and the amp gauge was not pegged and just the normal position to start. The car started after a little cranking and started. Bendix did not disengage so I disconnected the battery. Checking the switch and the shop manual indicated burned contacts because the ignition is now open at all times.

I have a generic 4 post switch that I can use but it has the round bezel you screw in. My question is can the original switch be rebuilt or should I just get correct switch from one of our vendors? I can use the other switch for the time being so I can go down the road with smile on my face

[StudeRich]

If the Bezel is the Knurl Nut aftermarket generic replacement/'70's Dodge Van type with only FOUR Cuts on the Key, it will damage your dash and LOOK crude.

If it is the Stude. Vendor 800840 Aluminum screw on Replacement, it is NOT that easy, but Can be made to work. The Problem is the tiny Allan Set Screw is very hard to get to with the Allan Wrench in there to Lock the Bezel in Place on the Switch at the correct clocking.

You need the 1549705, Switch and Lock With (2), 5 Cut Keys, that CAN be made to match your Door Locks as Original.

[StudeRich]

Are you THERE Bob ?

Hmmm, maybe he got his head stuck between the Brake Pedal and the Dash, somebody get him outta there!

[6hk71400]

I am here. I decided to kneel down by the left side of the dash and pushed and turned the switch out of the bezel. I did a wire by wire one at a time transfer and connected up and she runs like it is supposed to. I put a red felt battery washer to save the dash.

I am thinking it is probably not possible to rebuilt the switch. I haven't taken it apart so I will use the switch now until I can order a new switch that accepts the bezel. Now on to the $2 car wash then a home wax job

[mw2013]

here was my nightmare, went with a vender repoduction, stephen allen i believe

[StudeRich]

You cheeped out and saved $20 Bucks, that is the 800840 supplied by S.I. That's a tough Job!

[mw2013]

you are right i cheaped out, they told me it was just as good, but the key is short and that sucks, i needed the mirror to see what the heck was where

[6hk71400]

I actually remembered the last time I did this on another Hawk I had. It was 35 years ago and in 5 minutes I had the old switch loose, side by side changed the wiring and put the new switch in. I will repeat this again when the new switch comes in. If things hold true to form, I will be 106 when it is time to change again.

[Jeffry Cassel]

Just a tip: Disconnect - battery cable. Change over one post at a time so that there will 0 chance of mixing them up. You can just buy the switch and transfer your old lock to it to avoid having to get a new lock and key. Had a 63 Ford with replacement ign switch that would hang up in the start position. Pretty sure that is not too good for the starter. Don't try to replace switch from laying down under the dash position; do it from in front reaching under the dash to push switch into hole with your left hand while fastening the bezel with your right hand (ever so much easier that way!) New switches are pure Chinese crap so if you can find a good used one it would be way better.

[6hk71400]

Jeffrey that is the sequence I did. Battery when I tried to connect it I got a spark and immediately took the cable off. I had the door open and sat on the floor board and five minutes later out and in. Thanks for the reminder.