1940 Inline 8 Engine Rebuild

[Okiejoe86]

We had a meet of our local Studebaker Club chapter today. I chatted with Dave Thibeault for a while, mentioned your engine rebuild project. Dave may have some main bearings and other bits. He also has cam bearings that he has reproduced. He mentioned that main bearings for a Chrysler 383 engine in 0.030" undersize can be used for all but the rear main after you machine off the locating tang on the back. For rods on the big end, he suggested omitting the insert bearings and just babbitting the rod and bore to size.

When Jerry Kurtz was rebuilding my engine, we located enough bearings for the job, though we never found a front thrust bearing. Take good care of yours.

As soon as I get this engine cleaned up and inspected, I will contact you about what is needed. Thank you Gary Ash!

[Studebaker1965]

I spoke with Then and Now automotive in Massachusetts about your rebuild this afternoon. He was mentioning that you can re-Babbitt the main bearings. I know very little about these engines, but I am watching with interest on your rebuild as I have a couple blocks and heads and thought it would be fun to attempt what you are trying. If you are going to rebuild an engine, how cool is a straight 8.

Nate

[Hallabutt]

I dont mind the cost. Gotta keep these old Studebakers alive! This will be a long and fun and frustrating project.

Good for you! My remarks were just a caution against thinking that this is going to be like building a more modern engine. If none of this frightens you off, and the $2000 for a set of pistons, and maybe $100 dollars to rebabbit your old main/rod bearing shells, seems doable, then more power to you! I have 9 of these engines and three cars that use them. Most look better then the engine that you are starting with. I don't know what that means for you going forward? Good luck, keep us posted.

[Okiejoe86]

It has been a minute since my last post as well as touching the engine. A few personal life issues came up, but with those put to the side I was able to continue the tear down. Last night I removed the valve springs and valves. Besides the crud that is built up everywhere, this engine looks suprisingly good! Cam lobes feel smooth, valves look good, although dirty. My hopes are high for a decent rebuild but I still need to find a shop that will deep clean the block for me and check for cracks. This "Engine Rebuild Thread" will be long, but I will try to keep yall up to date with what is going on. I appreciate the responses from yall !!! Keep it coming! Also.... How the hell do you get the oil fill tube out?

[Okiejoe86]

Pistons and crankshaft have been removed. The block will be dropped off at the machine shop this week. Not sure how long it will take, but pending the outcome of how well the machine shop cleans and inspects the block will determine if this project will proceed.

[nvonada]

Straight-eight cranks are so cool. Hope the news is good! Is the cam out yet?

[Okiejoe86]

nvonada yes the cam is out. Everything is out and it is headed to the machine shop. I should hear back within the next couple of weeks of how it is.

[PackardV8]

If your shop can't find a local cam grinder, our guy here has the master.

He also does the best babbit work anywhere.

jack vines

[Okiejoe86]

Big storms in Tulsa have slowed this project down. The engine block is back home, but the news that the machine shop gave me is bad. No cracks and the each cylinder checked out ok, but the cooling passages have large amounts of rust built up everywhere. They were unable to remove the rust. The tube that goes down the passage behind the waterpump is completely rusted and stuck inside. There are chunks of rust between, around, and behind each cylinder that are hard as rock and blocked coolant flow.

Is this engine a gonner? Not sure we can remove all of the rust, plus I would be worried dumping thousands of dollars into this engine and have one a random chunk of rust plug up a passage way causing the engine to blow. I've attached some pictures, looking forward to hearing what everyone has to say.

Happy Driving!!!

-Joe

[oilnsteel]

Soaking in Evaporust might be an answer. Keep the block completely covered. I have used it on rusty model T cast iron carburetors and WCFB throttle bodies with great success.
I have also derusted precision machine tool parts with no damage. JT

[Ross]

Rustoleum now also makes a similar rust dissolver. It is a little cheaper than Evaporust and I feel it works a bit better. Lay the block on its side, tape up all the openings with some really good duct tape, and fill it up. After a few days, pressure wash everything out and then do the whole thing over again.

[jackb]

I read somewhere that there are 9 blocks sitting somewhere.....who knows....

[Hallabutt]

In have engine blocks too. It's really not the lack of good blocks that make these projects difficult-it's everything else.

[Okiejoe86]

The level of cost and aggravation for having a spare engine that you may never use makes very little sense to me. What you are finding out now regarding the cost and difficulty of this project, is something that some of us learned years ago. Even if you are able to find the parts the cost of the project will easily approach the value of your car.

I inherited my 1940 President from my Grandfather, who restored the car in the 1980s. I will never ever sell this car. If for some reason my current engine blows, then my car will be a sitting duck for awhile while I attempt the rebuild an engine. This is why I cam going ahead and attempting to rebuild a spare. This car, to me, is priceless.

[Okiejoe86]

Here are the pictures after the machine shop dipped it. Looks good, I'll start measuring the journals in the coming weeks.

[64LarkLover]

I've been following your posts and the engine really cleaned up well. Hope the remaining work goes well.

[garyash]

It looks like you have a lot of broken bolts/studs to remove from the water manifold area and the water outlet on the head. I was successful drilling a few of those. I center punched each bolt, drilled through with a small bit, maybe 1/8th, then gradually increased the size toward the minor diameter of the threads. Left-handed bits will help. Using a pick and needle-nose pliers, I was able to grab the shells of the bolts and drag them out, then a little clean-up with a tap. You don't need a lot of thread depth to hold on the bolts for the manifold cover. In a pinch, you can always use Helicoils. Aircraft Spruce carries the copper crush washers for the cover. Use copper or nickel NeverSeez compound on the new bolts; stainless bolts are good for this location.