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Another heater control valve question - 63 Lark

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  • Cool/Heat: Another heater control valve question - 63 Lark

    Hi,
    I've been enjoying the search feature for the last few hours and have learned some great stuff, but I do have a question I couldn't find an answer to. I'm currently replacing the heating system in our Cruiser, it has never been in operation since we've owned it, the hoses were missing and the core appeared to be in poor shape.
    Is there a way to bench-test the control valve?
    Should I just bypass everything under the dash, install it under the hood to test?


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    Cheers,
    JOE

    --------------------------------------------------

    "After all is said and done, a hell of a lot more is said than done"
    Clark Olmstead

  • #2
    Looking at it's condition, I would say it will be futile to waste time on it. It is very likely Original and 59 years old and Plugged up and or leaking.

    If you have the time and patience, the 2 Repair Seals are available at NAPA.

    Reconditioned, New (NOS) or Lifetime Ball Valve Replacement Heater Control Valves are out there.

    These are "Ranco" Thermostatically or Manually Controlled Coolant Valves, made to fit Studebaker's only, but similar to Chrysler Products and others.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner
    SDC Member Since 1967

    Comment


    • #3
      If someone has a way of bench testing these it would be nice to know. Thank you

      Comment


      • #4
        Operate the control and see if the little plunger that protrudes from the back of the copper spigot goes up and down. When up, you should hardly be able to blow through the valve. MMM, tasty. These valves held up really well and I hardly ever had to rebuild them til they were 40 years old. Now, they ALL need the new diaphragm in the Napa kit 660-1000.

        Comment


        • solar
          solar commented
          Editing a comment
          Thank you I rebuilt mine and it has a new diaphragm, the only one I have done, just want to check it out before I reinstall it and watch it leak.

      • #5
        Ended up having Joe Hudacek rebuild it. Looks great, nice guy. Getting ready to install it.

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        Cheers,
        JOE

        --------------------------------------------------

        "After all is said and done, a hell of a lot more is said than done"
        Clark Olmstead

        Comment


        • #6
          Originally posted by Joe V View Post
          Ended up having Joe Hudacek rebuild it. Looks great, nice guy. Getting ready to install it.

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          Looks great! Does Joe replate the zinc-plated parts, or are they painted?
          Paul
          Winston-Salem, NC
          Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
          Check out my YouTube channel here: www.youtube.com/@r1lark
          Check out my NOS Studebaker parts For Sale here: http://partsforsale.studebakerskytop.com

          Comment


          • #7
            Originally posted by r1lark View Post

            Looks great! Does Joe replate the zinc-plated parts, or are they painted?

            Nothing looks painted, most likely plated. Didn’t even think about that, I was just amazed how new it looked lol
            Cheers,
            JOE

            --------------------------------------------------

            "After all is said and done, a hell of a lot more is said than done"
            Clark Olmstead

            Comment


            • #8
              Joe has done several valves for me including '64 Avanti, '81 Avanti and most recently '64 GT. Never a problem . He also repairs switches! Just a quick note that the valve in the '81 Avanti was toast-so I thought and it came back looking NOS!
              Rob in PA.

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              • #9
                now...... make sure you operate the system frequently as it was intended for use. Includes switch. Wide open valve. Not only is age winning some of these system battles, disuse wreaks havoc too.... GL

                Comment


                • 62champ
                  62champ commented
                  Editing a comment
                  This is something I have to remind myself to do during the Texas summer - April through October. With zero need for warm coolant running through the heater core, it helps to open and close it a couple times either while the vehicle is warming up or after a ride to make sure it gets limbered up. Then there are the four or five time you actually do need it and you won't have to put a cheater bar on it to get it open.

              • #10
                I’ve always wondered where is the flexible copper “sensor” line supposed to be routed?

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                • #11
                  I've located them in the large duct.
                  Rob in PA.

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                  • #12
                    Contact info for Joe Hudacek?

                    Comment


                  • #13
                    Originally posted by ndynis View Post
                    Contact info for Joe Hudacek?
                    Thank You!

                    Comment

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