Cool/Heat: Install 12V neg ground AC unit in a 6V pos ground Studebaker

[Craig]

Trying to preplan an AC install in stock 1955 Commander V8, 6v pos grnd, generator, new batt.
Foreseen at this time -
1 Sanden 510 compressor on VinAir mount with added bottom PS pulley.
2 Underdash evap unit from the late 1950's 12v neg ground.
3 Condenser of some sort mounted in front of existing stock radiator?
4 Dryer/filter mounted somewhere in the lines?
5 Converter to 12volts to allow operation of AC while keeping 6v sys intact?
6 30lbs of R12 in stock


I am trying to understand if a "step up" converters (6v to 12v) allow reverse polarity of the output while using the same grounding platform (automobile chassis).

I would like to run a 12volt negative ground AC system mounted and grounded in a 6 volt positive ground car.

The 12v AC system will probably have compressor clutch, blower motor with rheostat, thermostat for clutch.....
I am not sure about the amperage requirements. 20amp?, 30amp?

Maybe others are already doing this?

Pardon my stupidity.
Certainly the power converter sellers are not advertising this capability.

[Big Dan]

Troublemaker! LOL! Bump to top!

[mbstude]

You may be able to find a 6 volt fan motor for the evaporator.

Then it’s just a matter of making the compressor clutch operate.

On my ‘53, the clutch windings were rewound to operate on 6 volts, but that was 25 years ago. The voltage converters are probably an easier way to go.

BTW.. I’m sending you 2 new voltage converters with the AC evaporators. I bought them when I was thinking about putting AC on a ‘41 Commander. On the bench, I wired up a 6 volt battery to the converter and then to a new 12V Sanden compressor. The clutch engaged as it should. I have no idea if it would last long term, but I guess you’ll find out.

[Craig]

6 volt Modern air conditioning in a Nash
maybe the new techy OPTIMA battery helps this 6v?
This not at night with lights on, plus add brake and turn lights.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMFV6Wfo1j0

[gjamesk]

Craig, I posted this last month: https://forum.studebakerdriversclub....in-6-volt-cars
Matt couldn't get the clutch to engage with 6 volts, but sounds like the converter may be the way to go.

[Big Dan]

Craig, I posted this last month: https://forum.studebakerdriversclub....in-6-volt-cars
Matt couldn't get the clutch to engage with 6 volts, but sounds like the converter may be the way to go.

But make sure you read the cautions for the converter you choose before you buy. Some of them warn against being used with "Electro-Mechanical Devices!"

[Craig]

Yikes, motors and clutches are both electromechanical, I think.

[Craig]

Working on a Sutton evaporator unit, trying to clean it up, fan and fan speeds works well on 12volts.

[Frank DuVal]

But make sure you read the cautions for the converter you choose before you buy. Some of them warn against being used with "Electro-Mechanical Devices!"

You are right! Electro-mechanical devices use coils of wire to create the EMF, which when turned off, produce spikes (same as how the ignition coil works) and these spikes can damage solid state devices unless protection is designed into the device, or added into the circuit later.

[Craig]

I was able to pick another option for evaporator. It is a Frigikar 6 volt unit!






Now apart for repairs and testing.
The tiny indicator light "Magnetouch Control" comes on when clutch is engaged.
The rotate circular grills have no means of attaching, so PO just used external screws/washers.

[mbstude]

I was wondering if you had bought that one. Mine works quite well.

[Craig]

A little rough, but can strip and refinish. The twist temp knob has a micro screw that needs to be removed and I can't identify the screw head. Any chance you can look at yours please?

The blower speed pull knob and switch came right off, and the tiny light was easily removed, but the temp not so easy.

[RadioRoy]

Matt, the radio speaker usually hangs down below the dashboard. It does not appear to do that in your picture. Did you remove the speaker housing from the radio?

[wdills]

The short answer is that there is no way to know without knowing the internal circuitry design of your step up converter. If it is well designed and the input is fully isolated from the output, then it will work just fine and you will be able to read 18V from your negative battery terminal the the (+) output of your inverter. The 12V (-) will share the chassis with the 6V (+) and they will not interfere with each other. If the internal circuitry does not provide input to output isolation you may have problems. Before hooking up any loads, I would connect the inverter to the with no output load and small fuses in both the input lines and the (-) output connection to the chassis. Power it up with the small temp fuses in place and measure your output voltage (12V +/-) and your12V (+) to your 6V battery (-) voltage. Verify your reading are 12V and 18V respectively. If they are, you have a good chance that everything will work like you want it to when you do your final install and connections.

[mbstude]

Matt, the radio speaker usually hangs down below the dashboard. It does not appear to do that in your picture. Did you remove the speaker housing from the radio?

Radio and speaker are intact.

[RadioRoy]

OK. Thanks.

[mbstude]

The twist temp knob has a micro screw that needs to be removed and I can't identify the screw head. Any chance you can look at yours please?

The set screw on mine is a very small Allen head.