Brakes: '55 Conestoga Front Brakes and Rear Axle

[Spamcan]

I recently inherited a '55 Conestoga Commander which dad did various modifications to it. Here's my SDC post with a lot of pics of the Conney, https://forum.studebakerdriversclub....udebaker-wagon It has some version of a front disk brake conversion, and the rear brake drums were swapped. I'm getting the brakes worked on, right-rear hangs. He wants to swap out the rear axle for a '06-ish Ford Ranger, so we can get parts and such, I'm not opposed to this. He also noted the right-front seals on the disc/hub need replacing. I've looked at the Turner and Hot Rods & Brakes kits and the disk doesn't seem the same, seems mine has vent holes/ribs and a bigger stand-off to push the wheel outwards maybe? The wheels are like Mustang Bullitt's. I was hoping to get your assistance on identifying if this is possibly some other kit or at least some disk that I could buy a seal kit, and maybe even bearings. I'm also looking at a need to do a master cylinder swap.

I've been working with StudeRich and Dwain Grindlinger from the Studebaker Drivers Club in helping to identify the various parts and mods, but this one alludes us.

Also attached are a couple pics of the front brakes themselves. If I need to get additional pictures, please advise. I've even considered (if need be) just getting 2x of the Turners 5384713 AVANTI & CAR ROTOR WITH BEARINGS & SEALS (each)
But I do not know if that will bring the wheels inward too far and cause a rub. Though I am open to new narrower wheels if need be.

On the rear axle (which according to the Production Order it's a 3.92 ratio)...being it's a modified 10" drum and we can't identify what's causing the issue with the brake hanging, the mechanic wants to swap the axle with a '06-ish Ford Ranger with (I think) a 3.73 ratio and 10" drums. I ponder 2 things:
1. Should I get the get/keep the old axle and sell to someone that needs it? Or trade it to him for part of the costs of repair, how much?
2. Any concerns on the ratio change? I know this will change the speeds and/or gittey-up but I don't quite understand how. I'd like it if it allowed a bit of higher overall cruising speed with this 3-sp auto-tranny.

Thank you very much for your time and information!

[Mike Van Veghten]

Hey spam -

Nice car. I've got two myself.

1. The Hot Rods and Brakes kits are the two mostly used. Minor differences in the discs and calipers. You have the larger caliper. Any other oddball kit will use similar rotors and calipers.

2. The drilled holes and machined slots in the rotor face mean nothing as far as replacement parts, or the way that they work. No holes and no slots with todays pads are better anyway.

3. What axle do you have ? There are 'cast in' numbers cast into the center casting that will tell you. If you have a "44", keep it..! You CAN buy parts for it. Gears, seals, bearings, etc., etc.

4. I personally like the 3.73 ratio. It's a good compromise between street and highway driving. Especially if you have ANY plans of using a 4spd (overdrive) trans. I have two 54 Conestoga's, one is easily changeable, the other has....3.73 ratio. I also have a 55 parts wagon.

5. I'd be HIGHLY...inclined to remove those spacers on the front. How do you spell...dangerous ! If you need the offset, just buy the "correct" wheel. Do a search on broken wheel spacers, you'll probably find many !

6. You can add discs to the rear easily enough, and DON'T need a power booster. Just use a master cylinder with a 1.00" dia piston. Both of my wagons are set up like this.

7. As far as seals are concerned, be as carefully as you can, and remove them. They will have their part numbers in the rubber, you should be able to see the number just by looking at the back side of the hub where the seals are (before removal). If not, a good parts store guy should be able to help by measuring them.

Mike

[enjenjo]

Those are billet wheel spacers. I have never seen one fail. They are much stronger than the old diecast spacers that fail. I have used them on the rear of race cars with no failures

You can make them stronger by installing a hub centric insert into the spacer so any loads in the spacer are transferred to the hub..

[StudeRich]

If this actually IS a 1955 Commander 16G8, Conestoga with it's Original Rear Axle, it IS a Dana 44, and can be verified by the RAISED on the Right side of the "Pumpkin", "44", usually the Rear side.

[Spamcan]

Thank you Mike and Rich!!

It is a 16G8 as indicated by the body tag. I'll confirm the "44" or not from the axle when I pick it up today, but I'm confident it's the original of the car which then should be a 44. That being said, parts for the "original" 44 may be available, but we cannot yet identify the right replacement drum since it's not the original. Being dad swapped out the (and forgive me here for the terminology ignorance) a studded hub with a drum with stud holes, vs the original studded drum that gets bolted to the axle shaft.

With that modification I'm unable to determine parts (well, the drum itself). I did find the pads. So would the other brake components (piston, springs, etc.) be of the original p/n's and available?

Which way do I go, keep the 44 or go Ranger...?

I'm still leaning Ranger for 2 reasons, but feel free to present reasons for me to keep the 44 (if it is a 44).
1. It would be known and easy to get parts
2. It would bring the ratio to 3.73 which (if I understand correctly) bring my top speed up. Right now I'm revving high to just get to @ 40-45MPH. It's the original 3-speed (this is another option I may look at changing one day, to a 4-speed).

[Spamcan]

StudeRich and Mike Van Veghten
Well I finally got under the Conney and it doesn’t look like it’s a Dana 44 diff. At least the bulge of the pumpkin is not on the right ride, it’s on the drivers side. And here’s the tag: 47 / 12
So what does that mean for diff/rear end ratio and version? The mechanic is ordering the Ford Ranger one with a 3.73, so hopefully it’s decent match to whatever this current one is.
Just doing a quick Google search, is it an E12 diff? https://www.autozone.com/parts/drive...studebaker/e12

[skyway]

As others have said, if you clean off the cast “webbing” where the axle tube enters you
should find raised numbers saying “44”, “27”, “41” or “23”?

[StudeRich]

You did NOT find the Dana Model Number, you just found the Ratio Tag: 47\12 =3.91666, a "3.92" Ratio. If you clean the crud from the Right side Cast Iron "Web" between the Round Tube and the Center "Pumpkin" you WILL find the Model # as said several times.

There is NO doubt that this Car DID come with a Dana Model 44, and I would guess it IS original, looking at it and it's Rare Studebaker Ratio, discontinued after 1958.

Chances are, that your Dad just cut the Swages off of the Studs, replaced the Drum with a replacement on the Hub, left it loose on the Hub and tightened the Wheel to hold it together, which HAS been done before, not the Best method, but if it is centered well enough it might work.

[Spamcan]

As others have said, if you clean off the cast “webbing” where the axle tube enters you
should find raised numbers saying “44”, “27”, “41” or “23”?

I’ll clean that area and see what I find.

so what do I do with the axle once it’s replaced, is there a market for it?

[skyway]

Yes, there should be a market as 3.92 is a swell ratio with OD.

[rkapteyn]

Have not heard "swell" for a long time.It kinda dates you!

[Spamcan]

Thanks Skyway. I’m guessing my next change may be a transmission, I’ve got the 3-speed (1 in Low, 2 in D). With this 3.92 I can barely get to 40-45 mph without a fairly high rev. No way can I get on the Hwy/Fwy.

[StudeRich]

Sounds like there could be "Other" issues with that "Roaring" RPM.
Even 4.09 or 4.54 Cars without Overdrive can be "somewhat" Interstate driven, maybe Not sustained High Speed, Long Term of course, if you Value your Hearing.

Did we ever determine if this wagon still has the Original Detroit Gear 3 Band, Lockup Converter Studebaker Automatic Drive Trans. a DG-250M?

THAT kind of RPM sounds like possibly; slippage, not going into Direct, or Not Locking up, Weak Throttle Pressure Adjustment etc.

OR:
It may be starting in Low, as it should, then shift to 2nd. and NEVER High Direct !

You noticed that High RPM back on Post 61 of. Pg. 2 in May !
https://forum.studebakerdriversclub....er-wagon/page2

[Spamcan]

We haven’t determined which transmission it is, and to be honest I can’t recall how to. But I did the following:
started in Low, then shifted to D and it shifted 2 times. So I effectively felt 3 gears.

[StudeRich]

We haven’t determined which transmission it is, and to be honest I can’t recall how to. But I did the following:
started in Low, then shifted to D and it shifted 2 times. So I effectively felt 3 gears.

But you could not get three Ratios (2 Shifts) in Drive?

It is starting to look like a 1951-'54 Detroit Gear DG-200, DG-250 ( NOT an "M") or a 2 Band, Borg Warner Flight-O-Matic. The Tag on the Driver's side of the Trans. Case would tell the story.

[Spamcan]

But you could not get three Ratios (2 Shifts) in Drive?

It is starting to look like a 1951-'54 Detroit Gear DG-200, DG-250 ( NOT an "M") or a 2 Band, Borg Warner Flight-O-Matic. The Tag on the Driver's side of the Trans. Case would tell the story.

Correct, when in D, only 1 shift, 2 gears. I’ll get under there and see if I can find a tag on the trans. I also was going to throw in some Lucas Oil Transmission treatment in hopes there’s maybe a stuck valve locking a 3rd gear in there to get above 40mph comfortably.

To add to this, the shop that’s been working on obtaining and replacing the rear end of a Ford Ranger 373 says the 373 isn’t anywhere to be found. They can get 308 or 354. Being that the current (possibly Dana44 - I’ve failed to confirm this yet) with 392, I presume 308 would be too much of a difference? I’m good with keeping the Dana44 if I can find compatible drums, may search out an “old school” brake shop that maybe could ID the current drums and then I don’t need to swap the rear end.

I did get a new Turner Brake kit as well to replace the unknown disk kit that’s in there now.

[Spamcan]

Finally was able to get under the car. The rear end is definitely a Dana44, huge “44” on the bottom right. I had to wipe away lots of grime to expose this.

The transmission is a whole other thing. The label is almost gone. Was able to use some creative lighting to get what I could, there’s almost a white paint or coating covering some of it that won’t easily wipe away. All I can clearly make out is maybe a serial#? 55448. I can see part of the Studebaker name and Warner, but maybe the rest will make sense to those more knowledgeable than I to help ID the model.

I see the pictures aren't showing the full detail (get pixelated when zooming in from my uploaded image). If you can help ID the transmission, PM me your email address and I can send you the full image.