I want to use a duel master cylinder in my car, but I can t seem to find one. I need help thanks.
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That would be because Studebaker's with under the Floor Master Cylinders NEVER had a Dual M/C.
And some of us have found that it requires Too much pedal Pressure to apply a Dual one, without a Power Booster.
Installing one of those COULD be done, but what a maintenance nightmare that I for one, sure don't want.
The Stock Single Cylinder was designed to work very well with the rest of the System, thank you very much!
Aftermarket conversion Kits to Modify your may be Original Studebaker, ARE available Only at Turner Brake.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967 -
I assume you want to replace the single master cylinder under the floor with a dual MC. If so, Jim Turner sells dual master cylinder kits for GT Hawks. They include the already-bent brake lines needed to install the MC. His website is:
Welcome to the SDC Forum.
--DwightComment
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Also now offered with the remote fill reservoir!
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I have one. I'd give you really good deal on it (I got it for a 57 Clipper, but installation on that car would have required hacking away at body supports to make room for it.)Comment
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I used Turner's mount and an AMC Master cylinder.
I had to replace my floors anyway, so I modified my access.
"Man plans, God laughs".
AnonComment
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On my '62 GT I used a master for a '69 Corvette with manual brakes (1"x 1" bore). I also made a swing pedal assembly and mounted the master on the fire wall using what began as a Lark swing pedal assembly. I have seen swing pedal conversions for the Hawk sold online. While I was at it I added a 7" dual power booster. It works GREAT and turned the '62 drum brakes into 21st century brakes!
Last edited by bensherb; 04-22-2022, 07:22 PM.Comment
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What I'm beginning to understand is that there is no easy solution. Reading between the lines of the posts I've seen so far the overriding path of least resistance is to use the OEM non boosted, non power brake system. So far, I'm given to I understand that there is no room for a convention booster in the 62 GT Hawk and that I should just use the single reservoir system the car came with because the "Studebaker's with under the Floor Master Cylinders NEVER had a Dual M/C. and that it requires too much pedal pressure to apply a dual one, without a power booster. (But there is no room to install a power booster.) Catch 22 there.) "Installing one of those COULD be done, but what a maintenance nightmare that I for one, sure don't want. The Stock Single Cylinder was designed to work very well with the rest of the System, thank you very much! "
Then I was advised that aftermarket conversion Kits to Modify your brakes (to what?) ARE available Only at Turner Brake. BUT I've looked here at Turner but it seems mostly for Avanti not GT Hawks and it's also too hard for me to understand what I need to order. (No pictures.)
I can't be the only 70 year old with bad knees that needs help improving the braking performance on at GT Hawk without spending a $1000 or more and having a complicated engineering development and installation program.
Are there any ways to improve the OEM braking system without adding a dual reservoir and a power booster? Would putting disk brakes on the front help? Any additional advice or recommendation would be appreciated . I do appreciate all the comments and recommendation so far, I just thought that there would be a simple easy solution and it looks like maybe there isn't. ThanksComment
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You have two different threads simultaneously going, on the same topic, but I will try to address your concerns in post 9 here: A dual MC has the same piston diameter (1") as the OEM single reservoir, and will neither increase not decrease pedal pressure required from your leg. If you simply install disc front brakes, with or with a tandem MC, the required pedal pressure will increase, since discs, by design, require higher line pressure than self energizing drum brakes. The above is only true if you have a GOOD type of shoe liners. In today's repro world, there are brake shoes lined with material that makes the car dangerous, since no amount of pedal pressure will effectively stop the car. There are much better repro shoes, but they tend to screech sometimes, and some people don't want the screech. There's also at least one guy who will re-line your shoe cores with 'the good stuff' from 50 years ago. If you are unsure what kinda shoe liners you have now, that's a good place to start. I'd recommend the brown liners, with sintered metal, available from most of our vendors; they screech a bit, but they stop the car well.
Once you have good shoe liners all the way around, if not satisfied, I'd install an OEM hydrovac, designed for 56-64 Stude Hawks with drum brakes. If your GT originally came without power brakes, you already have the best pedal, since it provides more leverage in pushing the MC piston than the power brakes' pedal. With a drum brake style hydrovac, good shoe liners, and good MC (tandem or single, makes no difference re pedal pressure), I believe you'd be satisfied with your GT's brakes. There are other ways but, as you describe, cost big $, and maybe improve safety a bit, but ultimately the pedal pressure will be no better than my recommendation above.
Good luckLast edited by JoeHall; 04-26-2022, 03:47 PM.Comment
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I think what I might do is get this, https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/6314...atxYHnvTw_LQnc ...small unit and install it on the firewall on the drivers side. I will, of course have to move th battery to the passenger side of the car. Will it work? I don't know. LOL -
Hi Rich. That unit from Jegs is all but identical to what I put together from loose parts. I have seen similar things simply bolted to a flattened firewall; but they need to be mounted low enough to clear the hood and they do not sit level. The firewall in the Hawk leans to the rear 12 degrees which is why I made the bracket I posted that makes it sit level. You also need to reinforce the firewall so that it doesn't flex when you step on the pedal. I've done several with 1/8" sheet (my hawk is 1/4" because that's what I had at the time). Then you also need to make a pedal assembly with a return spring fpr the pedal. Without a spring the pedal "rides" the brakes and the lights stay on, maybe the brakes a bit too. I moved the battery to the right side (where it should have been to start with). I simply moved the battery tray to right side and drilled the needed holes to mount it; BUT, The heater hoses/valve on my '62 forced moving it forward a bit to clear them (no such luck with a '63/4, the entire heater assembly is in the way to even attempt moving the battery to the right). I simply heated the inner fender with a torch and beat it into submission so the outer, forward corner of the battery tray could move forward enough (it sounds difficult but really was not).
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Joe this came up a few days ago on a Post I made to try to help a Member's issue on his String.
I said if you don't want the Random, unwanted, useless, un-needed "Forum Search Help Links" to pop up, just QUIT using the "Number" Sign that the system interprets as a "Pound" Sign! ...NOT!
Now with the New "Upgrade", I have to use the Word: "Number"!
Did I mention I don't like them?
Last edited by StudeRich; 04-26-2022, 11:46 AM.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967Comment
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Thanks Rich, fixed it.
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