Body / Glass: How I do remove my door?

[creegster]

Hi, I am trying to remove my door on my 59 Lark, and the manual says that you need to file down the rivets for the door stop. Are those the 2 rivets on the door shown here? How are you supposed to file down the one in the back?
I suspect Im missing something here...

Thanks for the help.

[doofus]

Wrong end, look at the rivet on the other end of the door check strap. and its hard but grind off the bottom till the rivet comes up through the bracket. i used a 3in cut off wheel carefully on my 69 rag top project. Luck Doofus

[rockne10]

[creegster]

Ah, thanks!
Im pretty new to rivets: are replacement rivets for this easy to find?

[tsenecal]

This place has everything. Rivets, Riveting Tools and Equipment | Hanson Rivet & Supply Co

[altair]

For replacement I used a large nail cut off about 1/2" drilled a small hole in it and inserted a small cotter pin.

[Topper2011]

I used a clevis pin from ACE Hardware.

[rockne10]

SI has the original item if you want to be fussy; part #1327195.
I just drop a small screw in it; makes it removable anytime.

[brngarage]

I'm guessing you haven't tried to remove the hinge bolts yet (or did these change from Posi-Drive to REAL bolts in the later models?). I'd be happy to remove the rivets from a hundred door checks rather than the six Posi-Drive hinge bolts on one door!!

[creegster]

I'm guessing you haven't tried to remove the hinge bolts yet (or did these change from Posi-Drive to REAL bolts in the later models?). I'd be happy to remove the rivets from a hundred door checks rather than the six Posi-Drive hinge bolts on one door!!

That is the problem: on the driver door, I successfully changed out all posidriv bolts (in the door and in the frame) to allen-head bolts (with anti-seize included).
The Passenger door has 2 bolts that are trashed (on the door side, in the top hinge); they sheared off and I cant get them out. I want to take the door off, so I can get into them and fix this. Plus, I have some welding Im going to do on the bottom of the door for some rust spots, so it will be easier if I just take this door off. I did hours of heat with a torch (on these 2 bolts), combined with days of soaking with rust penetrant, and these 2 are just not budging.

[altair]

I don't think Studebaker ever used Posi-Drive Screws they were Phillips. The Phillips company designed the Posi-Drive screws but much later. I ordered a set of replacement door screws and they were Posi-Drive screws, I now have Posi-Drive screws in my doors, but the original screws were #4 Phillips. Some screws would not come out and before I broke them off I drilled the head of the Phillips screw with a sharp 1/2" bit just enough to establish a center then finished with a letter "I" drill. The thread can be easily re established with a 5/16 - 28 tap in a cordless drill.

[brngarage]

What is a letter "I" drill?

[Skip Lackie]

There were/are two other drill bit standards besides the very familiar fractional inch sizes -- one using letters and one using numbers instead of actual sizes. They were used mostly by machinists, and most/all were much smaller than a half inch in size. Sets are still available from major manufacturers, and some of us find them handy for both their precision diameters (for example, the restriction in a oil filter feed line is a #56 drill), and also for drilling very small holes.

https://littlemachineshop.com/reference/letterdrillsize.php

https://littlemachineshop.com/reference/numberdrillsize.php

[tsenecal]

[brngarage]

Thanks for educating me about drill sizes.