Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Typical cost to do valve job on V8 heads?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Engine: Typical cost to do valve job on V8 heads?

    Just got my bill for the valve job on a set of standard 259 V8 heads. I brought bare heads to the machine shop totally dismantled. I am getting them back with no valve seals which I will install along with springs and keepers. Heads were cleaned and resurfaced. One head was cracked so I furnished another matching head which also needed cleaning. In the end only two heads had machine work done. Also valve guides not touched at all.
    What is the typical price for such work today?

  • #2
    IIRC, he last set of heads I had done was around $100/each. That was about 10 years ago. I would guess $150 - $200 each today.
    78 Avanti RQB 2792
    64 Avanti R1 R5408
    63 Avanti R1 R4551
    63 Avanti R1 R2281
    62 GT Hawk V15949
    56 GH 6032504
    56 GH 6032588
    55 Speedster 7160047
    55 Speedster 7165279

    Comment


    • #3
      No harm in asking for a "ball park" price after the shop has had a look at your cyl. heads. IF I would have done that simple step it would have saved me the $ 600.00 mess I am in with my spare full flow block.

      Comment


      • #4
        The cost to clean depends on how dirty/greasy they were. If they have to go through the oven before being washed and blasted, that's a small additional cost.

        Typically, to clean, mag, pressure test, mill and touch up seats should be no more than $150 each, even in a metro area.

        Also valve guides not touched at all.
        It's a really, really rare occurance to find Studebaker valve guides good enough to go around again. We usually replace valve guides and ream to size before cutting valve seats.

        Most recent pair of Studebaker heads got cleaned, magged, pressure tested, milled, new guides, hard exhaust seats, assembled with stem height and springs shimmed were $400 shop labor.

        jack vines

        PackardV8

        Comment


        • #5
          Last heads I had done were $10 a valve, parts not included. But the heads were cleaned and surfaced, new guides installed, and the seats cleaned. New seats were $10 each plus parts.
          Ron Dame
          '63 Champ

          Comment


          • #6
            I was quoted $250 over the phone. He did clean one extra head due to cracked head. He left a message on my phone that the bill came to $483.00 . I’m not impressed with his estimating skills. Guess I’ll have to eat it this time.

            Comment


            • #7
              I went to one of our advertisers in our local newsletter for an oil change. It was for my new daily driver, a 2006 Tahoe with 102,000 miles. Care was taken by the owner since new and I wanted to continue. I went in to the "chain" oil change place. Quoted 51.00 but got the hustle to change the differential oil for 109 when it was posted 99. Passed on that. Funny they did not do the air filter hustle for 25. Time to pay the bill, 69. The guy said "oil disposal fee and I didn't know the taxes" I guess that was the first oil change they had ever done. Their ad is up January 1st. Since I am membership/treasurer if they send a check for another year ad for 20, I shall return it. I did not tell them I was with the local chapter. I just wanted to see how they operated. I will go to my regular guy from this point forward.

              Bob Miles
              I will pay for honest service but don't try to hustle me

              Comment


              • #8
                I am soon gonna find out the price of rebuilding a set of 259/289 heads. The wife's 63GT has a cloverleaf motor, that likely came with just block and pistons. When I first bought the car 6-7 years ago, I removed the heads and oil pan to inspect: the pistons are standard, and clean, and the cylinder walls looked to have 5000-10,000 miles on them, but the crank was 10/10.I know the maintenance history on this GT since early 1990s, and it was done at a Stude repair shop in Long Beach CA. This appears to have been a CASO motor, as it it now has an exhaust valve burning out, and the rings (probably cast iron) are shot already. We have put around 40,000 miles on it, and this is way to soon to have to re-do the motor, SIGH.

                For heads, I have a spare set, but need rebuild first. IIRC, they already have hardened exhaust seats, and were planed down .030". I will likely either use those heads, or try to find shallow dish pistons, as I'd like to bump the compression a bit. If able to find shallow dish pistons, will use the heads on the car now.

                No matter which heads are used, they will have hardened exhaust valve seats, OEM seals, and whatever the machinist recommends for all else. But no $ short cuts. For rings, I will look for moly but, if unavailable, will use chrome rings and let the next owner worry about the cylinder walls, 100,000 miles later. I will never use cast rings, now OEM valve seats, as long as there are ANY other options.

                I may be a CASO, but will never do a CASO Stude motor, because of the labor involved. I am blessed with an outstanding machine shop, only 20 miles away, and will be talking to them soon. Now that the 352 motor rebuild is done, the 289 is next.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
                  For rings, I will look for moly but, if unavailable, will use chrome rings and let the next owner worry about the cylinder walls, 100,000 miles later. I will never use cast rings,
                  Joe, IIRC, we've been told by the Stude wholesale parts house that Grant will no longer supply moly rings for the Studebaker V8. My investigation some time back showed Hastings still offers moly rings for the Chevrolet sixes which use the same rings as the Stude V8. Three of us could go together and order four sets of 6-cyl rings and split one set to make three sets of V8 moly rings.

                  Anyone interested in going there with Joe? I'd be in for a set of .060"s.

                  jack vines
                  PackardV8

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by PackardV8 View Post
                    Joe, IIRC, we've been told by the Stude wholesale parts house that Grant will no longer supply moly rings for the Studebaker V8. My investigation some time back showed Hastings still offers moly rings for the Chevrolet sixes which use the same rings as the Stude V8. Three of us could go together and order four sets of 6-cyl rings and split one set to make three sets of V8 moly rings.

                    Anyone interested in going there with Joe? I'd be in for a set of .060"s.

                    jack vines
                    Jack,
                    Sure glad you did the research on this, exactly which Chevy six is it that has those rings that cross to Stude V8? I am definitely up for a group buy, but will likely need standard size for this 289.
                    Thanks,
                    Joe H

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Is there SOME advantage to Moly Rings vs Chrome or Iron?

                      Proven in use to have:

                      Better Oil control?

                      More Longevity?

                      Less Cylinder wear?
                      StudeRich
                      Second Generation Stude Driver,
                      Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                      SDC Member Since 1967

                      Comment


                      • GrumpyOne
                        GrumpyOne commented
                        Editing a comment
                        I put a set of moly rings in the Power Hawk back in 1970. After installation and break in, I averaged 2,500 miles before consuming a quart of oil where before I was getting about a thousand mile for the same consumption. This work was done with about 70k on the clock and now with just over 90k, the consumption is about the same...

                    • #12
                      Don't know if it is true or not, but we used moly rings in the 70s because we believed they broke in faster. Additionally, I remember the machinist showing how he could twist a moly ring without it breaking.
                      78 Avanti RQB 2792
                      64 Avanti R1 R5408
                      63 Avanti R1 R4551
                      63 Avanti R1 R2281
                      62 GT Hawk V15949
                      56 GH 6032504
                      56 GH 6032588
                      55 Speedster 7160047
                      55 Speedster 7165279

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        Originally posted by 64studeavanti View Post
                        Don't know if it is true or not, but we used moly rings in the 70s because we believed they broke in faster. Additionally, I remember the machinist showing how he could twist a moly ring without it breaking.
                        Joe actually uses his Studes and puts way more miles on them than most. He had a bad experience with cast rings, but for no more miles than these old girls get, cast rings are OK for most.

                        Since they were used in 1965 Studes, all Joe has to do is find an Studebaker vendor who has two sets of Chevrolet 194" STD rings on the shelf and realizes he'll never have any other offer on them.

                        Yes, moly rings don't wear the cylinders as much as cast and yes, they seat up much faster than chrome.

                        jack vines
                        PackardV8

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          Case in point, I put Hastings 'Plasma Moly' rings in the recent 352 rebuild, and today totaled 550 miles on the 'new' motor. Using Walmart 10W30 for break-in, and oil consumption so far is nil. Most every new set of cast rings will push a quart or so the first 500-1000 miles, and chrome rings may continue to use oil for the first 3000 miles or so. That's one major difference with the moly rings. Also, they wear less on the cylinders, as do cast rings when compared to chrome.

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            Originally posted by PackardV8 View Post
                            /Cut/Since they were used in 1965 Studes, all Joe has to do is find an Studebaker vendor who has two sets of Chevrolet 194" STD rings on the shelf and realizes he'll never have any other offer on them./Cut/
                            The Original Stude. Parts Warehouse Plant 8 stock of Chevrolet/Canadian Pontiac/GMC Engine Parts were all sold to ... wait for it!

                            A Vintage Chevrolet Specialty Vendor!
                            StudeRich
                            Second Generation Stude Driver,
                            Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                            SDC Member Since 1967

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X