Ron all of my comments are assuming you have done and are comfortable with doing mechanical work. Doing it yourself does require in depth knowledge of engine work so it is not recommended for a novice. If you are not a gearhead then you will need to pay.... and the price will very greatly depending who does the work. To the mechanic it represents an in debt process hr wise. I just wanted to clarify as I was re-reading your original post and it was not clear if you were going to approach it yourself or just gathering info on how difficult it is to do thus guesstimating a cost.
-
-
I missed that totally StudeRich... I now notice that Chuck4 revived the thread with his question instead of posting new...... So my comments should have been directed to him...... Thanks for pointing it out.Comment
-
Don't you wish human beings could be resurrected from the dead like strings??Comment
-
This maybe an old thread, but these are old cars and so old knowledge is good, and things haven't really changed that much.
I am also about to embark on changing my 53 Commander (232 v8) K body front and rear seals so I am digging any information out of this forum that I can (old/new don't care).
My biggest concern now is the water manifold bolts sticking. This engine sat for a long time (30 years). I've done a number of heat cycles on it and pulled the casting plugs and flushed the block the best that I'm able. I have the steering tiller tie rod disconnected from the steering box and the starter and steering box are removed. I'm about to pull the radiator and shroud out for pully access.
Do I need to get the cross over exhaust pipe out?
Do I need to remove both of the wheel tie rods?
I've read all this information on the pan gaskets and how they need to be handled. Can I just RTV the heck out of them?
The front seal I have been told to soak in oil over night. The pan gaskets I need to curve them to get them to take a set.
I have the car on a lift so I'm not working on my back thank goodness.
Any additional tricks or gottcha's will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
JohnComment
-
Desert53Stude: I am also about to embark on changing my 53 Commander (232 v8) K body front and rear seals so I am digging any information out of this forum that I can (old/new don't care).
My biggest concern now is the water manifold bolts sticking. This engine sat for a long time (30 years). I've done a number of heat cycles on it and pulled the casting plugs and flushed the block the best that I'm able. I have the steering tiller tie rod disconnected from the steering box and the starter and steering box are removed. I'm about to pull the radiator and shroud out for pulley access.
The Hood, Radiator and Shroud is about ALL that has to come out. You will get a bit more clearance if you remove the Generator. Don't forget the Ground strap on the right front engine mount bracket.
The Water manifold does not have to come out at this point until you are ready to remove the Timing Cover for the Front Seal replacement.
Those Screws are not usually a problem, you can try penetrating spray, Heat and slightly tightening them before removal.
Even a few solid hits with a Ball Peen Hammer can help.
The Reach Rod from the Steering Box to the Bellcrank did not need to come out, also the Steering Gear.
Do I need to get the cross over exhaust pipe out? No, just drop it.
Do I need to remove both of the wheel tie rods? No, just turn all the way to the Right.
If the Pipes interfere, remove the clamps at the Bellhousing to move them outward.
I've read all this information on the pan gaskets and how they need to be handled. Can I just RTV the heck out of them?
NO, just see Mike's Excellent string on how to do this job, only a Light smear of RTV is required if you take all the precautions mentioned on that string by Mike and others.
I bond the two ends of the rear Main Seal together with RTV high temp Black Silicone.
The front seal I have been told to soak in oil over night. The pan gaskets I need to curve them to get them to take a set.
NO, do not soak the Felt Seal, just smear the inside with Wheel Bearing Grease, seal the outside with Gasket cement.
If you do, you will help it Wick more Oil than it is already going to do, out of the Timing Cover!
Curve the Arch Gaskets, and trim them to leave "Some" looseness for compression on the Rear one, very carefully tuck the rear Arch Gasket mostly into the Main Cap.
Use at least 4 all threaded Studs & Nuts or more to pull the corners of the Pan down and align the gaskets to screw holes.
Some of this R&R procedure will vary, depending on if you choose to pull the Engine, Bellhousing and Trans. Together or not. Or just drop the Trans.
In My experience, I would Never separate the Engine from the Bellhousing, until out of the Car, if Clutch/Converter work or an Engine Stand is needed.
Way too much risk of damage.
Thanks,
John
Here is Mike's String:
Last edited by StudeRich; 11-19-2025, 10:24 PM.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967Comment
Comment