Engine: How to change rear main seal

[San Diego Ron]

My 1962 GT Hawk w/289 4 speed is leaking oil badly at rear main seal and not sure on how to go about replacing it. Thanks in advance. Want to sell the car but not with it leaking oil all over the place.

[r1lark]

Ron, do you have a Studebaker Shop Manual? The process is covered very well in that.

[San Diego Ron]

No, no shop manual

[altair]

For the best assurance of a good job is to pull the engine and turn it upside down. With the right equipment and two handy guys, this could be done over the weekend. There is nothing more disheartening than to struggle with this job in the car and have it leak again.

[bensherb]

I thought my '62 had a bad main seal too. Turned out the thick cork oil pan gasket was leaking at the rear of the pan. It's still easier to pull the engine and turn it upside down though.

I had help removing and installing the hood, but did everything else by myself. After removing the OD trans from underneath (about 40 minutes), it only took about an hour to remove the engine, then about the same to put it all back in. It took longer than that to get the new pan gasket to stay in place to install the pan. I think it was Rich who suggested putting the thick cork end gaskets in a small coffee can for a few days to get them to take the round shape before installing them. Too bad I'd already finished the job but it makes sense to me, as that was the biggest issue.

Removing the engine also gives you the opportunity to clean, paint, detail, etc the engine compartment and engine which costs very little but your time and could help your resale. I've only seen a few Studes in person that looked good under the hood. Most look good outside but like a crusty old car under the hood. While you have the engine out it's a good time to replace the core plugs and clean out the water jackets if it hasn't been done in decades like most. It sounds like a lot to do, but shouldn't take more than a weekend and maybe a couple evenings after work if you're so incline.

[GrumpyOne]

I thought my '62 had a bad main seal too. Turned out the thick cork oil pan gasket was leaking at the rear of the pan. It's still easier to pull the engine and turn it upside down though.

I had help removing and installing the hood, but did everything else by myself. After removing the OD trans from underneath (about 40 minutes), it only took about an hour to remove the engine, then about the same to put it all back in. It took longer than that to get the new pan gasket to stay in place to install the pan. I think it was Rich who suggested putting the thick cork end gaskets in a small coffee can for a few days to get them to take the round shape before installing them. Too bad I'd already finished the job but it makes sense to me, as that was the biggest issue.

Removing the engine also gives you the opportunity to clean, paint, detail, etc the engine compartment and engine which costs very little but your time and could help your resale. I've only seen a few Studes in person that looked good under the hood. Most look good outside but like a crusty old car under the hood. While you have the engine out it's a good time to replace the core plugs and clean out the water jackets if it hasn't been done in decades like most. It sounds like a lot to do, but shouldn't take more than a weekend and maybe a couple evenings after work if you're so incline.

Bingo!!! (but all my experience is with the engine remaining in the vehicle.)

In my years of Studebaker ownership and working on someone else's cars I have only come across a faulty rear seal but rather bad cork gaskets!

I have replaced rear seals when performing engine-in-car overhauls and the process is not at all difficult. I made a special but simple tool to start the rotation out for the top of the Brummer seal, a large screwdriver with the business end ground down so that it is about 1/8th of an inch thick. Once you start the seal rotating out... it's gonna come out.

When installing a new upper portion of the seal make sure that a thin coat of grease is present on steel to steel surface to ease the new seal into position. Never had a seal failure after doing so...

[mw2013]

I read this article in Turning Wheels and saved it, think my main ( on a fresh rebuilt was leaking at the same place?) but the leak slowed, I am topping off with synthetic blend diesel oil with zddp, which i hear can cause leaks

How do you know when you got it apart, which one is leaking?,

because they are different jobs, one requires main cap removals and the other is a oil pan R and R

and this video is awesome at 18:14 is what your up against, or rather what the pan is up against

https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=1025146131285823

[mw2013]

I thought my '62 had a bad main seal too. Turned out the thick cork oil pan gasket was leaking at the rear of the pan. It's still easier to pull the engine and turn it upside down though.

I had help removing and installing the hood, but did everything else by myself. After removing the OD trans from underneath (about 40 minutes), it only took about an hour to remove the engine, then about the same to put it all back in. It took longer than that to get the new pan gasket to stay in place to install the pan. I think it was Rich who suggested putting the thick cork end gaskets in a small coffee can for a few days to get them to take the round shape before installing them. Too bad I'd already finished the job but it makes sense to me, as that was the biggest issue.

Removing the engine also gives you the opportunity to clean, paint, detail, etc the engine compartment and engine which costs very little but your time and could help your resale. I've only seen a few Studes in person that looked good under the hood. Most look good outside but like a crusty old car under the hood. While you have the engine out it's a good time to replace the core plugs and clean out the water jackets if it hasn't been done in decades like most. It sounds like a lot to do, but shouldn't take more than a weekend and maybe a couple evenings after work if you're so incline.

sir you make it sound like a walk in the park, a shop would charge the car's worth

[JoeHall]

I have changed many 259/289 rear main seals, working under the car, and would not even consider pulling the motor for such simple operation. As long as you are comfortable on a creeper, and are able to raise the car up onto ramps, or jack stands; I see no reason whatsoever to remove the motor, unless you have some kinda medical condition that does not allow laying on a creeper. Might wanna but a good quality creeper though, if you don't already have one. Of course, if you have access to a lift, that would be even better, but not necessary. JMHO

[bensherb]

sir you make it sound like a walk in the park, a shop would charge the car's worth

You are not incorrect on either count.

[daytonadave]

54 years ago, I replaced my rear main seals laying on cardboard on my 62 Daytona by the Barn. My Dad had a tool that looked like a cork screw to remove the top seal. A little Permatex sealer where the Cork pan gaskets and rear main bearing housing meets helped, too.
I've read on this forum the lower rear main seal fails, not the top.
Of course I was 16 yrs young and my Dad watched me do it.