Hi again; lots of questions this week. Finally have '57 Golden Hawk 289 all put together (minus only radiator). Had problems getting starter to turn the engine over earlier this spring, tightened up battery cable too tight and broke the field-coil terminal, finally got a shop to install a new one and tried again.
First attempt, starter just spun like a bat out of h****. Took it out, checked (yes, has the special mounting bolts, yes, has same number of teeth in the rebuilt Bendix, yes, I only put light machine oil on spiral). Bendix was half-way back when I removed it, but as soon as I tried rotating it 'popped out" and is fine. Must have caught a tooth and compressed it. Reinstalled starter, this time it ratcheted (when turning engine over with a wrench) like it did this Spring. This is the Folo-Thru starter design, no solenoid. So apparently unlike a solenoid-plunger style, this design is SUPPOSED to ratchet and be engaged when de-engergized?
So, figured finally "ready to go, spin it over for first time since rebuilding EVERYTHING :-) . Put charger on old 12V battery, nothing. battery cables tight on water manifold and starter post, and battery supplemented with charger on battery.
FIgured "OK, battery too dead to work", so tonight drove our van in and connected jumper cables (heavy) from van battery to first the old battery, and then tried putting jumpers direct to block ground and starter post. Nothing. Just a "hummm".
I get 14V at jumper cables (van running of course) w/ ground cable connected (and jumper cable on it), but connecting Positive clamp to starter post or the cable connected to it, only read about 4V at starter post.
All I can figure is I actually need a GOOD 12V battery connected directly via cables, can't use jumper cables from a running car's battery?
Does that sound right? Starter spins like crazy disengaged (even with old battery). (and last night IN the block, when I apparently had the bendix compressed against ring-gear).
If I DO need a good battery, with no wiring and no ignitition switch (see photo, this is JUST a chassis and engine at this point) stuck slapping the cable on positive post quick so won't be "tight". How do you guys turn over a "loose" engine without the wiring? (as far as that goes, how much of the wiring is actually required to START the engine, in terms of all the regulators and ballasts and resistors in the whole circuit; I'm afraid of frying something by taking short-cuts and not wiring every part of the circuit up, even though all I want to do (once radiator on and tranny cooler plumbed) is start the engine once and after 10 years, see if it RUNS, and if my Flightomatic actually spins the rear wheels! :-)
Probably a different post...
First things first, need that starter to spin it over for the first time!!!
Thanks!
First attempt, starter just spun like a bat out of h****. Took it out, checked (yes, has the special mounting bolts, yes, has same number of teeth in the rebuilt Bendix, yes, I only put light machine oil on spiral). Bendix was half-way back when I removed it, but as soon as I tried rotating it 'popped out" and is fine. Must have caught a tooth and compressed it. Reinstalled starter, this time it ratcheted (when turning engine over with a wrench) like it did this Spring. This is the Folo-Thru starter design, no solenoid. So apparently unlike a solenoid-plunger style, this design is SUPPOSED to ratchet and be engaged when de-engergized?
So, figured finally "ready to go, spin it over for first time since rebuilding EVERYTHING :-) . Put charger on old 12V battery, nothing. battery cables tight on water manifold and starter post, and battery supplemented with charger on battery.
FIgured "OK, battery too dead to work", so tonight drove our van in and connected jumper cables (heavy) from van battery to first the old battery, and then tried putting jumpers direct to block ground and starter post. Nothing. Just a "hummm".
I get 14V at jumper cables (van running of course) w/ ground cable connected (and jumper cable on it), but connecting Positive clamp to starter post or the cable connected to it, only read about 4V at starter post.
All I can figure is I actually need a GOOD 12V battery connected directly via cables, can't use jumper cables from a running car's battery?
Does that sound right? Starter spins like crazy disengaged (even with old battery). (and last night IN the block, when I apparently had the bendix compressed against ring-gear).
If I DO need a good battery, with no wiring and no ignitition switch (see photo, this is JUST a chassis and engine at this point) stuck slapping the cable on positive post quick so won't be "tight". How do you guys turn over a "loose" engine without the wiring? (as far as that goes, how much of the wiring is actually required to START the engine, in terms of all the regulators and ballasts and resistors in the whole circuit; I'm afraid of frying something by taking short-cuts and not wiring every part of the circuit up, even though all I want to do (once radiator on and tranny cooler plumbed) is start the engine once and after 10 years, see if it RUNS, and if my Flightomatic actually spins the rear wheels! :-)
Probably a different post...
First things first, need that starter to spin it over for the first time!!!
Thanks!
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