Wanting to warm up the 259 in my '60 Lark Rag Top project. planning on an R-1 cam, cleaned up valve pockets, back cut valves and multi angle valve seat grind. WCFB and lo restriction mufflers and "H" pipe. can i get to a 9 to one CR with shim gaskets and .060 head shave? trying to keep the mods on the mild side for a daily driver. Thanks Everybody, Doofus
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I fixed this one for you. Thanks.
Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
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If you want to "Go Faster" why not have the Intake Manifold bored out to fit an AFB, and get a New Edelbrock AVS, AFB Clone Carb. to get some REAL 4 Barrel ACTION ?StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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You probably meant to include R1 valve springs, a necessity with the R1 cam.
The Pertronix ignition conversion is a good investment on a Studebaker V8.
FWIW, when the block is square-decked and the heads milled .060", that "narrows" the engine enough the intake manifold usually no longer aligns correctly with the intake ports. Some ignore this and claim milling the intake isn't necessary. There's no cheap Studebaker power.
Before milling the heads, measure against the 3.5625" OEM spec to verify what you're starting with. Some have already been milled once.
jack vinesPackardV8
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Originally posted by thehotrodder View PostAre you wanting to keep it a 259? Going to a 289 opens up a lot more piston choices. .060 seems like an awe full lot. I’ll admit I’m a bit of a chicken when it comes to permanent block changes. Seems like swapping pistons would be easier
It's only after $2000 of professional head and intake porting, or a supercharger, that the 289"/304.5"/308" make more power. In the real street engine world, there's seldom more than 15 horsepower difference between a 259" vs the 289" when built to the same specs. The 289" will have noticeably more low-RPM torque and the 259" will be smoother at higher RPMs.
jack vinesPackardV8
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Thanks for all the advice everybody. yes to Pertronix, better springs, gasket matching ports. keeping 259 size. looking to get to 9 to 1 comp with head shave and thin gaskets. new .001 over pistons will tighten up 57.998 mile block. R-1 cam will be enough with WCFB. have AFB carbs and modified manifolds, might try the oddball 450 cfm buick carb later. will start with head shave and valve work while it's so flippin hot! again thanks everybody for advice! Doofus
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Originally posted by Hallabutt View PostAs Jack indicated 289 cranks used to be a dime a dozen. Certainly not like 259 cranks, but readily available. What would I have to pay for a decent core 289 crank needing a grind?
jack vinesPackardV8
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Originally posted by doofus View PostBelieve that a baffle in the choke vacuum passage will help this. stale fuel in secondary float bowl wont be a problem thanks to me "Getaway Car" driving style LOL. Thanks for the reminder Son O Lark! Doofus
That is not the Baffle Son O Lark is talking about, it's the one in the primary Float Bowl between the Float and the Needle and Seat that reduces Flooding on turns.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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