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Eaton rear lowering springs.

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  • Frame / Springs: Eaton rear lowering springs.

    Are anyone running the 3" 'bellow' 'Eaton' rear leaf springs? Saw they are available in both heavy duty, five leaf and standard four leaf, and anywhere from 3" lift to a 3" drop.
    I have a -53 Champion and the springs are really soft! Rear leafs have a very slight upward arch at ride hight now so they are definitely not healthy. Would like the car really low so am interested in where it will sit with the 3" drop and ride with HD vs. standard.
    (just put 3" drop blocks in but with the soft springs it only leaves 1/2" before hitting the bump stop 😁!)
    Any all info appreciated, and some pix would rock too.

  • #2
    This is where I've seen them btw.:
    https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/d...L%20-%20232cid

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    • #3
      Pretty surprised nobody used these! Eaton is a huge company and it's not like there is a ton of other springs out there for these cars...
      I probably try them anyways, since there is no other alternative, and see how they sit.

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      • #4
        Lots of folks on the forum like Eaton - I’m sure someone has used the 3” drop, they just haven’t seen your post. There is a modified studebaker page on Facebook that may be some help.

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        • #5
          I'm on the 'Racing Studebakers' forum to and I'll check there too. Seen quite a few like to build thier own from all kinds of brands since the 2.5" width is so common, but that seems like a lot of work and messing around when these new ones are only 280 bucks!

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          • #6
            I have never used any. I know some friends who have used some built here local at a spring shop (not Eaton )and were pleased.

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            • #7
              There is always the option of lowering blocks, too. But that means the springs have to be good.
              RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

              17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
              10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
              10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
              4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
              5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
              56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
              60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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              • #8
                Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
                There is always the option of lowering blocks, too. But that means the springs have to be good.
                Roy, in post #1, the original poster stated: just put 3" drop blocks in but with the soft springs it only leaves 1/2" before hitting the bump stop 😁!
                Paul
                Winston-Salem, NC
                Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

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                • #9
                  Oops! My bad.
                  RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

                  17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
                  10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                  10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
                  4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                  5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
                  56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
                  60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by r1lark View Post

                    Roy, in post #1, the original poster stated: just put 3" drop blocks in but with the soft springs it only leaves 1/2" before hitting the bump stop 😁!
                    I guess I am missing something. What is the difference in lowering the car 3" with blocks or using different springs? Doesn't the rear end still end up the same distance from the frame?
                    "In the heart of Arkansas."
                    Searcy, Arkansas
                    1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
                    1952 2R pickup

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
                      There is always the option of lowering blocks, too. But that means the springs have to be good.
                      Thats just the problem with mine. Sitting on the ground they are flat with a very minimal arch. I did put three inch blocks in and it sets it really nice! But only give a quarter inch (index finger!) 'travel' on the drivers side (to the stock bumpstop) and slightly touching on the passenger side...
                      Last edited by Swede.; 07-20-2020, 08:35 AM.

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                      • #12
                        I bet that you bottom out on an extreme dip. Is the front the same height?

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Hallabutt View Post
                          Is the front the same height?
                          Got about 3.5 inch clearance from the front crossmember/bellcranck bearing to the ground. Planing to rebuild the whole front suspension eventually, but want to drive the car some first (been sitting 15+ years) and likely get Commander springs then since it have a 350 Chevy in it and the Champion springs seems rather soft and have signs of suspension arms hiting both the frame and inner fenders...

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