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GT hawk fender

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  • Body / Glass: GT hawk fender

    Had time today to work on the 64 fender. Last body panel to do body work on and paint. Pretty rusty and was repaired some where in the mid 70's. Paper work that came with the car showed a some what used car repaint back then. Had brass used as a weld so that fits the time line. That's what most shops used back then. Could have used the 62 fender but then I would have to swap out the inner and still have to repair this for the 62. To buy patch panels from Classic would run about $250 and would still need to build some myself so decided to just do it all. Cut the new patch and made opening for vent door, Built it about 1/4 small so have metal to make the 90* around the door. Set the panel on and marked where it needs to be so vent door is proper spot. Left 3/4 lap all the way around panel so I can lap weld and hammer and dolly a step so when welded in the panel and fender will be close to the same height. Sand blasted the inner at edge where it needs repair before the panel goes on. Will panel bond and hammer over the edge at the door rest will be welded. Then sand blast the whole inner and underside of the fender and epoxy prime before any filler work or undercoat.

  • #2
    It looks similar to what mine was, but I used the classic enterprise fender end, and new vent opening. You are a much better metal worker than I, so I took the easy route. Looks great so far.
    Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.


    • #3
      Had time to work on the patch panel today. Marked out good where the door has to fit and cut out the center. For the 1/4" around the edge that has to be bend in at a 90* I marked on the back side and used a chisel end body hammer to just hammer on where I marked the line backed up by a strong piece of steel. This causes a stretch where the start of the 90 needs to be and gives you reference point to do the hammer and dolly work. Plus the stretch cause the 1/4" piece to start to bend back toward where it needs to go. A little fine tuning on the door opening edge after the panel is on so I don't have to try to chase it around and the opening should be fine. Then just have to build the part that holds the rubber and mounts the door and all the piece to mount the tube under the fender.
      Attached Files


      • #4
        I've done a couple very much like that and they worked out fine. Secet is to minimize Bondo and be sure you seal up the backside really well to keep any moisture out. MN is not gentle on cars!