Engine: Valve Adjustment

[paul shuffleburg]

I'm about to adjust the valves on my 51 232. The manual says to adjust them
.014-.016 with the engine hot and running. I was wondering if I could adjust at
.018 or .019 cold so that I don't oil flying everyplace?

[RadioRoy]

Look at some later specification sheets. I have heard that the valve setting in the 51 shop manual are incorrect.

Motors manuals are really good and do not contain all the errors that Chiltons manuals contain.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Paul -
Yes, you can and should complete the adjustment with the engine NOT running and cold.
And yes, adding .002" to the hot clearance value for the cold adjustment value.

Running, no matter what is said otherwise, is NOT as accurate as doing it to a non-running engine. I've proven it over and over again to people. It's VERY easy to get the actual clearance either over OR undersize adjusting in this manor.

Interesting that in all my years of racing, helping others, attending various forms (cars, motorcycles, aircraft, boats) of racing have I ever seen an engines valves adjusted while the engine is running.
If it were better to do it that way...they would..!

As for hot or cold. I've always done it cold.
IF...you could keep ALL of the valves AND the cylinder heads, and the pushrods and the lifters at the same temperature during the adjustment, hot might be better. That's almost impossible to do. It is possible, but it would take a long time, and be a pain in the rear..!
Also... again...in any form of racing you might find, it's always done cold. IF...it were more accurate, it would be done hot and professional racing teams WOULD...do it hot.

Cold and not running is, overall most accurate, faster, and cleaner.

Mike

[StudeRich]

Actually Hot or Cold is not the biggest issue here, it is WHAT to set the valves at on a '51-'54 232.

All of our '55 to '64's except R3/R4 get .026 Cold, so that is QUITE different than what that incorrect Shop Manual says about the 232, because after the "Recall" and Cam and Lifter replacement it changed to WHAT?

Sorry, I can't find my digital copy of the Service Letter, just DO NOT USE .018 until someone finds it.

[Dwain G.]

The manual calls for .016" cold. That was correct information originally. But then all car makers began having cam problems with their new OHV V8's. As Rich is saying, it is doubtful this car still has one of the old camshafts. They should have all been campaigned out. When you remove the valve covers you will likely see a metal plate attached to the rocker arm shaft bolts giving the specification of .023"-.025" cold. This is from a 1952 service letter. The last revision is in this 1955 service bulletin.......









Even if the plate is not there you will probably find the clearances closer to .025"- .027".
Is the engine number lower than V164808?

[Mike Van Veghten]

No big deal.
If the clearances are "supposed to be tighter", it'll just clatter up a storm at .025" - .027".
If it does, just wait till it cools, and redo the clearance to the .016" - .018" or so.

No harm will come if you don't let the engine run too long.

Mike

[paul shuffleburg]

Thanks for all the help. I would rather have them
a little noisy than too tight.

[kxet]

Loose clearances can beat up lifters and cam. I manage to set clearances with dial indicator.

[BRUCESTUDE]

I have a plate from a 232, which I understand was added after the early cam failure recalls, and it lists the settings at .023-.025 cold, or .021-.023 hot. I prefer to adjust mine cold, as it is a lot less messy and frankly more comfortable! I use a test light across the points so when they open the light goes out (I also set the distributor so this happens at #1 TDC). With the correct socket on the front crank bolt it is easy to rotate thru the rotation as many times as necessary.

[JoeHall]

Thanks for all the help. I would rather have them
a little noisy than too tight.

Sorry, answered the wrong post.

[JoeHall]

Loose clearances can beat up lifters and cam. I manage to set clearances with dial indicator.

Maybe with a high performance motor, with high lift and super strong valve springs. But the Stude motor is more akin to a farm implement. I use the Ted Harbit method of adjusting them cold/warm (half the valves on TDC, then the other half 360 degrees later on TDC). I usually adjust them real loose, usually around .030' for exhaust and .026" for the intakes. With hardened exhaust valve seats, I usually get around 16,000 between adjustments, and maybe 12,000 with regular seats. The exhausts close up much faster than the intakes. The Stude 259/289 usually needs overhaul at about 100,000 miles, and the valve train is in need of attention then too, but no mores than the rest of the motor.

[paul shuffleburg]

Found a tag on the rocker arm shaft: VALVE CLEARANCE
.023 - .025 COLD-STANDING
.021 - .023 HOT - RUNNING

[Dwain G.]

Reread my post #5. It has some additional info.

[paul shuffleburg]

Dwain G, there is no number stamped on the back of the block (or the front).
The valve stems still had "O" rings for valve seals. Before I pulled the rockers
I checked and the were set at .025. Thanks for all the help everybody.

[RadioRoy]

Dwain G, there is no number stamped on the back of the block (or the front).
The valve stems still had "O" rings for valve seals. Before I pulled the rockers
I checked and the were set at .025. Thanks for all the help everybody.

Why are you pulling the rockers? Are you going to replace the valve seals?