Ignition: Replace Ignition Switch

[kpossin]

I need to replace the ignition switch on my '55 President with one I ordered from Studebaker International. I was hoping to just back the old one out and swap the connections one by one to the new switch, but there is not enough slack in the wires to do that. Would taking out the radio give me room to work at it from the side? Have any of you tried this route?

Also: The new ignition switch terminals are labelled ST, ACC, BAT, and IGN, but the wiring diagram in the Manual is S, ACC, AMP, and COIL. Am I safe in assuming that BAT=AMP and IGN=COIL?

If any of you have done this and has some advice, I'd much appreciate it. Thanks!

[StudeRich]

Yes you are right, but the "ACC" Terminal gets all the "Load": Wipers, Heater Fan, Def. Fan, Headlight breaker, Turn Signals and Radio which are "powered up" though the Ign. Switch from the output side of the Ammeter.

Of course the Center Terminal (ST) will be the Start Wire to the "S"
Terminal of the Solenoid.

If your President is a Sedan/Wagon I always remove the Glovebox, and that should be all that is necessary, just do NOT forget to disconnect the Neg. Batt. Terminal.

[kpossin]

Thanks for the confirmation on the terminals. Here is an update: I first tried Stude. International’s bezel #1544684W [mine was broken], but it did not fit—its barrel was way too short. That’s why I had to get the new ignition switch #800840. It installed OK [don’t bother with the impossibly tiny allen screws], but the key is so short, you have to pinch it to turn it. And, indeed, removing the radio makes it much easier to install the switch. Here's hoping you have an easier time of it.

[Jeffry Cassel]

DO NOT remove all the wires at once! I do one post at a time to avoid mixing anything up (remember Murphy: if anything can go wrong, it will.) My son replaced the bezel on my 61 last summer . He did it in about 2 minutes. It is about leverage ; don't get under the dash but reach up under it to push the switch out and turn the bezel off of it.

[bensherb]

If the key is too short, you should be able to get one cut on a blank with a longer shank, Or you can do as I did for the same problem, cut the head off the key and silver braze a length of brass between the head and key to legnthen it.

[StudeRich]

No need to modify the Key; just insert the Key with Bezel off, push the release "Pin", remove the Lock Cylinder, buy and install the CORRECT 1555547 lock Cylinder with Studebaker Head correct Keys and install.

[johnesmonde]

I had the same problem with the impossibility of installing the tiny allen screw. I ended up using loc-tite on the threads screwing into the new bezel to stop it working loose. To deal with the short wires, I removed switch from dash, cut and marked wires and added new longer pieces to the switch and marked them. I could then easily screw switch into the new bezel tightly, then match wires together with lots of room and use wire nuts to join them.