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Best Edelbrock model recommendations for Studebaker 289 in 64 GT

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  • #31
    14.7 air fuel ratio does not prove that they were open all of the way. However he did not try adjusting the timing! Without adjusting timing and carburetor you will not achieve max power. As I pointed out above reducing the initial timing to 4 deg from 8 the power dropped from 208 hp to about 184 hp. We also do not know what the advance curve was on that engine. In any event just setting the timing at the factory setting will not yield the maximum power.

    I wonder what the CR was on that engine.
    David L

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    • #32
      I don't know a fat lot about carbutetors but clean and no leaks is important. I have a 63 259 in my 54 Champion. I had a four barrel manifold from a truck engine (no coil mount bracket) that fits perfect and I found a Carter four barrel carb at a swap meet that appeared would fit, when I ran the numbers it was a Carter #2840 from a 59 Buick 401 and it was a perfect fit and runs very smooth. The guy at the meet had about two wheelbarrows full of carbs, this one was in the bunch. When you place it beside a new chrome plated Eldebrock they are hard to tell apart, the castings are near identical. I have no idea of the CFM, it just runs real nice. I had to use an adapter spacer to clear the vacuum choke system. The vacuum choke required some minor fabrication to make it work properly.

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      • #33
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        • #34
          I have a new 1403 in the box, never used for $350 plus shipping if anyone wants one.
          Dan White
          64 R1 GT
          64 R2 GT
          58 C Cab
          57 Broadmoor (Marvin)

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          • #35
            Pretty good price.
            Summit sells them for $379 with free shipping.
            Amazon (Prime) is also $379 with free 2 day shipping.



            Originally posted by Dan White View Post
            I have a new 1403 in the box, never used for $350 plus shipping if anyone wants one.
            HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

            Jeff


            Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



            Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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            • #36
              Originally posted by altair View Post
              I don't know a fat lot about carbutetors but clean and no leaks is important. I have a 63 259 in my 54 Champion. I had a four barrel manifold from a truck engine (no coil mount bracket) that fits perfect and I found a Carter four barrel carb at a swap meet that appeared would fit, when I ran the numbers it was a Carter #2840 from a 59 Buick 401 and it was a perfect fit and runs very smooth. The guy at the meet had about two wheelbarrows full of carbs, this one was in the bunch. When you place it beside a new chrome plated Eldebrock they are hard to tell apart, the castings are near identical. I have no idea of the CFM, it just runs real nice. I had to use an adapter spacer to clear the vacuum choke system. The vacuum choke required some minor fabrication to make it work properly.
              I have a few Carter AFB's that came factory stock on 1964 cars. One from a Pontiac 421, it's 625cfm; A Chrysler 383, it's 600 cfm, and a 327 Chevy, it's 650 cfm. The info I have says the Stude R1 AFB was 637cfm at 2"hg.

              I'd guess your Buick carb is in this range. They made 505 versions of the AFB ranging from 500cfm to 900cfm if I remember correctly.

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              • #37
                Since Josephine got her 2:nd engine (2:nd by me, 3:rd in her life) & the Weiand intake I've had problems with the gas pedal; I press & nothing much happens... so I press harder & still nothing... so I press harder again & then ROOOAAARRR ! ! ! & I get in a pretty sour mode. & as the new intake is higher I raised / lengthed the arm coming up on the firewall & connect with the front-going arm that's hooked to the carb, but still not good enough. I've done other changes too, but I can't remember them now. Anyway, Josephine has been quite a beast to drive, just leaving the gas station last week made her spin the tires with a little scream & I'm feeling silly because I reckon people think I wanna impress.
                So when I read here that using the upper / bigger hole for the rod I thought I might as well try that...
                & so this evening I finaly went at it & I thought it felt better, but why not take her out for a try on the open road...? & so I did... & it was GOOD!
                & on the way back I met one of these newer low 2-seater Mercedes & a BaaderMeinhofWagen, both black ofcourse, & with Josephine's new customized face there's no way on earth anyone would recognize her as a Studebaker from the front & as she can be pretty loud & I already was going pretty fast I stepped a little extra on the gas when I met the youpie cars & me & Josephine was ever so happy!
                If this is "not growing up" I'm happy with that & I'm also really happy that this "Edelbrock" (Magneti Marelli) subject came up so my problems are gone now!

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                • #38
                  I had similar issues with the stock throttle linkage. So I simplified it by changing to a cable throttle. Smooth as glass now.
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                  The original pedal pushes against the lower curve of the throttle pedal rod at the right of the second pic.

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                  • #39
                    Hey Bensherb, nice pictures, I've always fancied the same color on the engine as the body!
                    I've still got that stuff from the -77 Volare I used as donor car but I prefer using linkage since cables wear out & I plan to drive my car for many years ahead as daily driver all year & then I trust linkage more. Now I'm happy as a kid on a new tricycle for the info that got it working! My old connection was to close to the pivot point.

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by Noxnabaker View Post
                      Hey Bensherb, nice pictures, I've always fancied the same color on the engine as the body!
                      I've still got that stuff from the -77 Volare I used as donor car but I prefer using linkage since cables wear out & I plan to drive my car for many years ahead as daily driver all year & then I trust linkage more. Now I'm happy as a kid on a new tricycle for the info that got it working! My old connection was to close to the pivot point.
                      That's interesting; I've never had to replace a cable of any kind on any of my cars because it was worn out, but have replaced linkage rods and bushings many times for that reason. Going to the cable throttle also removed a lot of play that is common/normal in a linkage. My VW's have throttle and clutch cables, my Fords have cable throttles and one even has a cable steering column shaft, never had an issue. I did break a clutch cable on one of my motorcycles though, but one cable in over 100,000 miles on bikes isn't bad.
                      Thanks; most the stuff in my engine compartment is "color coordinated". The engine itself is actually the factory color the car is supposed to be, "Riviera blue", the car is, I believe, a '64 color called "Laguna blue".
                      Last edited by bensherb; 05-30-2019, 10:35 PM.

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                      • #41
                        I'm happy to hear that Josephine is a little less "moody" on acceleration. I was going to suggest the cable setup, but it sounds like you've got it figured out. As for carbs, I'm running the 600 cfm Street Demon, with good success.
                        Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.

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                        • #42
                          Well to tell the truth I've had frayed cables & the biggest problem then are when the lose end wants to brake the cables move & ofcourse the worst is when you wanna slow down... & it's not like I'm gonna check the cable every year or so but when a linkage gets worn I'll feel it & if I have to I can even live with it. But that's me...

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