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  • Low Oil Pressure

    the Oil Pressure on my 64 R1 drops to under 30psi at cruise speed. It is barely 10psi at idle. It starts out over 60 when cold and starts dropping when the engine reaches normal temp. I'm running straight 30 with the obligatory can of STP. I live in Florida so the ambient temp is still around 75. I think this started happening after my last oil change where I installed a new Fram filter. Any ideas before I drop the pan and start using the plastigauge?
    78 Avanti RQB 2792
    64 Avanti R1 R5408
    63 Avanti R1 R4551
    63 Avanti R1 R2281
    62 GT Hawk V15949
    56 GH 6032504
    56 GH 6032588
    55 Speedster 7160047
    55 Speedster 7165279

  • #2
    It sure sounds like you have out of spec clearances SOMEPLACE. Could be rod or main bearings, cam bearings, rocker shafts, oil pressure relief valve, etc.

    I doubt if the new filter had anything to do with the drop.

    If you plastigauge the bearings, what will you do with your findings? Where is the wear point that will lead you to believe the bearings are causing the drop? Will you be sure it isn't something else in addition?

    IMHO, if the engine has good compression, isn't using oil (more than a quart every 1,000 or so), and if you don't drive the car more than 5,000 miles a year, I'd just live with the low pressure until you decide to do a TOTAL rebuild. 30 PSI fully warm at cruise speed isn't dangerous.


    Dick Steinkamp
    Bellingham, WA

    Comment


    • #3
      If your problem started with your last oil change, I think that is the place to start. Before you start tearing things apart, look over that oil filter and the mount that it hangs from. be sure the gasket is sealing, and look for a defective filter. What was the pressure before the last oil change anyway?

      Comment


      • #4
        Removing the pan in and Avanti in the car is a big ugly.It can be done though. Pulling the motor would be easier.

        Comment


        • #5
          I had full flow motor loosing pressure, it ended up beeing the 2 valves in the filter adapter that bolts to the block.

          leroy

          Comment


          • #6
            I have a friend and fellow Chapter member who had the same thing happen, and he put a "GOOD" filter on, a Wicks or NAPA and solved the problem.
            Your condition may be different but it is worth a try. The Fram filters are not what they used to be!

            StudeRich
            Studebakers Northwest
            Ferndale, WA
            StudeRich
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner

            Comment


            • #7
              There are two valves in the oil filter adaptor that bolts to the block. One is supposed to bypass the filter at six pounds difference between in and out. The other is a relief valve that passes oil back to the pan through a 1/2" passage, above sixty pounds. If the relief valve is stuck open, or has come loose, it would be your trouble. This valve is in addition to the pressure control valve at the front of the block.
              There are two bolts that hold the adaptor to the block. I'd remove it and check the valves. Use a new gasket when you put it back; and check to make sure the bolts aren't bottoming out with the washers you are using.
              It's a disturbing thought. But, crap coming out of the new filter when you started the engine could have jamed the valve. If stuff was coming out of the filter, you have to wonder what went into the oil gallery to the bearings. I don't use the cheap Fram filters, anymore.
              Mike M.

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for the input. I'll check the filter valves, the relief valve and try a different filter. I have had this car for about 4 years and have driven it on trips of 100mi or more. I usually watch the oil, temp, vacuum etc looking for any thing amiss. So... I believe that prior to this last change everything was ok. I have had the pan off before when I changed the clutch. If I still have problems, I'll just drop it again and check Main and Rod clearances. If they are out of spec, that will hasten my decision to complete a rebuild. According to the previous owner, the engine only has 75,000 miles. When I had the heads redone a couple of years ago to solve an overheating problem (there was a bad gasket) there was no practically no ridge in the cylinders. Its been awhile since I checked compression, but the last time I saw no cause for alarm. The engine leaks oil, but does not smoke and runs smoothly.
                78 Avanti RQB 2792
                64 Avanti R1 R5408
                63 Avanti R1 R4551
                63 Avanti R1 R2281
                62 GT Hawk V15949
                56 GH 6032504
                56 GH 6032588
                55 Speedster 7160047
                55 Speedster 7165279

                Comment


                • #9
                  Yes, inspect for those little phenolic valves. They are swedged (sic?) in place, and I reinstalled one once without removing the filter boss from the engine. What I found was the bypass valve lying on top of a removed oil filter. Had I not happened to see it laying there, I surely would have just screwed on the new filter and been none the wiser. So, if its missing and you still have the drainings and/or your old filter, be sure to search them for the missing valve.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I'm having the same low oil pressure problem with my '64 Avanti R2. I'm getting around 5 psi (maybe as much as 10) at warm idle (that doesn't move the oil pressure gauge needle very much!) and maybe as much as 30 at 2000 rpm. I dropped the oil pan on mine (not really a very hard job once you remove the steering bellcrank) and rebuilt the oil pump. Didn't really help. Today I cleaned the oil pressure relief valve at the front of the block; it seemed fine. Then I took off the oil filter and made sure the two bypass valves were present on the filter bracket; they were. Do I need to go any further with those filter valves other than simply verifying that they were there and hadn't fallen out? Can they still be malfunctioning, like stuck open, even if they appear intact from below? How do you check them? Can you get new ones? The one other thing I'm tempted to check is to see if the pipe plug is installed in the back end of the oil gallery that is accessible through the distributor hole (my engine was taken apart some 25 years ago). My engine has about 42K miles on it.

                    Pete R
                    Woodbridge, VA
                    1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight Coupe, 3-speed w/OD
                    1964 Studebaker Avanti R2, 4-speed (R4399)
                    1974 Avanti II
                    1972 Chevrolet El Camino SS454, 4-speed
                    1999 Corvette roadster, 6-speed
                    Pete R
                    Woodbridge, VA
                    1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight Coupe with '62 289 and 4-speed
                    1964 Studebaker Avanti R5083 R2 4-speed with 4.09:1 Twin Traction

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I haven't tried this yet, but does anyone know if the line to the pressure gauge needs to be bled. I did just change the rubber line from the head to the gauge.
                      78 Avanti RQB 2792
                      64 Avanti R1 R5408
                      63 Avanti R1 R4551
                      63 Avanti R1 R2281
                      62 GT Hawk V15949
                      56 GH 6032504
                      56 GH 6032588
                      55 Speedster 7160047
                      55 Speedster 7165279

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I had replaced mine, too, and I don't think it needs to be bled. My oil pressure was low before and after changing it. I verified my low pressure by connecting a handheld oil pressure gauge (from Harbor Freight) where the oil pressure line screws into the block and it read the same as the dashboard gauge.
                        Pete R
                        Woodbridge, VA
                        1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight Coupe with '62 289 and 4-speed
                        1964 Studebaker Avanti R5083 R2 4-speed with 4.09:1 Twin Traction

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I am experiencing the EXACT same oil pressure numbers on my Avanti R1.
                          About 10 PSI fully warmed up at idle. Jumps up to 40 psi when I get
                          on it, but the tach is dead so I can not say what RPM. No knocking and
                          the engine runs good. Who knows?

                          Tom

                          '63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires
                          '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                          Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                          http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                          I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            The valves in the oil pump adaptor are simple, spring loaded, one way, disc valves. I would remove it, to really check for something holding the relief valve open. You will need a new gasket.
                            I replaced mine, because I thought it was warped and leaking. After installing the new one, from SASCO, I checked the old one and found it was surprisingly easy to blow through the relief valve. It must have been leaking oil back to the pan. Mine has new bearings, and I never noticed low oil pressure. I think that if everything else is in good shape, the oil pump puts out enough to make up for some leakage. I didn't notice an increase in pressure with the new adaptor. It may be leaking a little, too.
                            It occurred to me that both valves are redundant. There's a bypass valve inside most oil filters, and the oil control valve at the front of the block works as a relief. Earlier engines, with the bypass filter, had nothing like the valves in the adaptor.
                            I think Myers Studebaker has block off plates with fittings for a remote filter. I wonder if they incorporate the extra valves.
                            Mike M.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Okay, so you can't tell if the valves in the oil filter base are working simply by looking at them after removing the oil filter. All I could see were the two screens that prevent debris from flowing up through the disc valves--no way to tell if the valves above the screens are functional. I will go ahead and replace my oil filter base with a new one and see what happens. I'll probably pick it up at York. I hope that all of us who are experiencing this low oil presssure problem will come back here and post our progress on this problem. I will do that after installing the new oil filter base in a couple of weeks or sooner. Maybe together we can figure this out.
                              Pete R
                              Woodbridge, VA
                              1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight Coupe with '62 289 and 4-speed
                              1964 Studebaker Avanti R5083 R2 4-speed with 4.09:1 Twin Traction

                              Comment

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