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  • #16
    Is it worth while to do main and rod bearings if the compression tests
    out to be good? I want to put my good heads on the R1, but I fear it
    spinning a rod bearing and wacking the head. Think this could cause a
    problem? I want to do the heads when I swap to the R3 headers with a
    Silvertone 2-1/4 exhaust. Maybe my concern isnt justified.

    Tom
    '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
    Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
    I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

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    • #17
      Before doing anything drastic, why not change your oil to 20W-50 and see how that affects your oil pressure. I had a similar problem with my Lark VI and the oil seemed to help a great deal.
      I read about this approach a number of years ago in Turning Wheels.
      Just a thought.
      Rog

      '59 Lark VI Regal Hardtop
      '59 Lark VI Regal Hardtop
      Smithtown,NY
      Recording Secretary, Long Island Studebaker Club

      Comment


      • #18
        No Tom, you do not "hop up" the engine and give it a fresh I presume ported and polished set of heads with new big valves and not change those old maybe original bearings, or at least CHECK them! [:0]

        Just doing a valve job, increases the stress on the the bottom end if it is not close to new, doing a half-a** job does not save anything!

        And you also have low oil pressure? If this engine has over 70,000 miles the most likely reason for the oil press drop is either worn Rods/Mains and or Cam bearings.
        And that would be WITHOUT your "pedal to the metal" driving technique!

        quote:Originally posted by sbca96

        Is it worth while to do main and rod bearings if the compression tests out to be good? I want to put my good heads on the R1, but I fear it spinning a rod bearing and wacking the head. Think this could cause a problem? I want to do the heads when I swap to the R3 headers with a
        Silvertone 2-1/4 exhaust. Maybe my concern isnt justified.Tom
        StudeRich -Studebakers Northwest Ferndale, WA
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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        • #19
          I tryed 20w-50, it only raised the pressure when cold. Right now I am
          running straight 30w, and thats the best all around. With the 20w-50
          it would blow oil out at higher RPM when cold.

          I guess its time for a short block rebuild. But with shuffling around
          the daily drivers to make room for the Goat, the Avanti will have to go
          to the back burner once again.

          Tom
          '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
          Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
          http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
          I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

          Comment


          • #20
            quote:Originally posted by Pete R

            I dropped the oil pan on mine (not really a very hard job once you remove the steering bellcrank) and rebuilt the oil pump.
            Pete R - I would like to drop the oil pan on my 64 Avanti inorder to repair a dented bottom but don't have a lift. I'm located in Fairfax. Could you please email me. mywinslow@verizon.net

            Thanks

            Comment


            • #21
              Ten pounds of pressure at hot idle is not a problem. At highway speeds, on a V-8, I do expect 40 plus. Less is generally caused by loose cam or main bearings, at least in my experience. Less than 40 can go a long time, but is less than ideal.
              While the adapter may be the problem, I doubt it's the filter. I've never had a problem with frams, and some of you know I've used many of them on many a Studebaker. We use sraight 40 and 20/50 with a can of blue STP Oil Treatment. The weight depends on my mood, I doubt if it makes much of a difference. Stephen

              Stephen Cade

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              • #22
                I'm aside Steve on this one..I doubt the filter. Also, for what its worth, I've never seen any appreciable difference in oil pressure (on a stock Stude guage) no matter what weight oil I have in there, warm that is. I have driven many well worn V8's with the given pressure readings noted above. Unless I lived in a great climate which provided 200+ days of daily driving, I wouldn't worry about it. This goes to the engine rebuild threads we've had too, and I know I'm repeating myself, but why folks dump big bucks into engine rebuilding for maybe 30 days/year driving, then wear horse blankets or primered exterior-only vehicles is beyond me.....reminds me of my teens !

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                • #23
                  I guess I should start with a compression test and see how the rings
                  are before I decide what to do. I go back and forth between doing a
                  "cheap" rebuild (rings/bearings) or going for a total rebuild. I want
                  to be able to beat on it (obviously), but the chassis is far from the
                  point where thats a possibility. I have read about GREAT results from
                  the "cheap" rebuild, but then how much more expensive is a total? Its
                  adding the cost of block machining and new pistons.

                  edit: and cam bearings, timing gear, balencing, etc .....

                  Tom
                  '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                  Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                  http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                  I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Just wanted to follow up on my earlier post. I did replace my oil filter base and it made no difference in the oil pressure. For now I think I will just live with the low oil pressure. Sometime in the near future I will pull the distributor and verify the presence of the oil gallery plug. Beyond that I doubt that I would rebuild the engine until it really needs it.
                    Pete R
                    Woodbridge, VA
                    1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight Coupe with '62 289 and 4-speed
                    1964 Studebaker Avanti R5083 R2 4-speed with 4.09:1 Twin Traction

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      The plug is not missing, you would have even lower pressure if someone left it out.

                      JDP/Maryland
                      64 R2 GT (Sid)
                      spent to date $62,839.60
                      63 Daytona HT/4 speed
                      63 Lark 2 door
                      57 Wagon

                      JDP Maryland

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                      • #26
                        My "recently rebuilt w/<5000 miles" full-flow 289 is the same - low (unreadable?) 5-10psi @ hot idle, but good 40+psi when running down the road. I've changed oil viscosity (same results as everyone else, only affects cold), tried different filters (went back to STP), added a direct-reading mech gauge on the block, etc.

                        Runs well, pulls strong, and is fun to drive, so I've decided I'm just going to live with it until it gives me a reason not to!

                        Daddy always said, if yer gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough & I'm one tough sumbitch!
                        -------------------
                        Daddy always said, if yer gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough & I\'m one tough sumbiatch!

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          quote:Originally posted by JDP

                          The plug is not missing, you would have even lower pressure if someone left it out.

                          JDP/Maryland
                          64 R2 GT (Sid)
                          spent to date $62,839.60
                          63 Daytona HT/4 speed
                          63 Lark 2 door
                          57 Wagon

                          If that plug were left out you'd be lucky to have 5psi at 4000 rpm!!

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Well, I think the two replies about the potential for a missing oil galley plug will save me from bothering to look for that. Thanks.
                            Pete R
                            Woodbridge, VA
                            1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight Coupe with '62 289 and 4-speed
                            1964 Studebaker Avanti R5083 R2 4-speed with 4.09:1 Twin Traction

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              You have all heard of Smokey Yunick, the engine guru. Smokey writes that you only need 10 lbs of oil pressure per 1000 RPMs.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Like Steve said...
                                But...
                                So far I haven't read on this thread that the pressure relief valve had been cleaned and serviced...
                                (Oh, Dick did mention it!)
                                Keep things simple....
                                You'll get it!
                                Jeff[8D]

                                PS: Probably the two biggest areas of low oil pressure that don't get looked at much are connecting rod side gap, and camshaft to cam bearing clearance.
                                We rebuild these engines all the time and stuff an old cam in on new bearings, but were they mic'ed?
                                Same thing with connecting rods. Spend all sorts of time making the big end round, but if the side gap is too big, a lot pf oil slings out there...
                                Food for thought...
                                HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                                Jeff


                                Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                                Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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