I had the stromberg 2 barrel rebuilt on my 289 GT Hawk. And the engine still runs rough, some misfire and can't idle to 550 rpm. Timing and points set. Plugs show carbon, so it's running rich for sure. I noticed gas dripping at the throttle shaft on the drivers side. Could the floats be messed up? I paid $200 for the rebuild from the only carburetor rebuild shop in Vegas. Now I'm having my doubts that he knew what he was doing.
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New rebuilt 289 2BLL still runs like crap after professional carb rebuild
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Gee...even rebuilt carburetors in Vegas is a gamble?
There's a fellow SDC member I consider a friend. I see him at least once a year at the Tri-State meet in North Carolina. About ten years ago, I bought a rebuilt carburetor from him. The next year he asked how I liked the carburetor. I told him it worked great after I rebuilt it!
It has been our running joke now for years.
Seriously though, it seems that "rebuild" has an unclear meaning to various rebuilders. And to answer your initial question, the float could be not adjusted properly. I've seen rebuilt carburetors with a new needle valve, but a worn unchanged valve seat. New accelerator pump and nothing else, but called "rebuilt." Float replaced, but not adjusted. On some of these carburetors, you can flip a gasket the wrong way and it will not perform because there's a circuit covered up by placing the gasket incorrectly. (I don't know if yours is one of those)
Carburetor toolkits have various gauge wires for clearing jets & fuel passages, but often us "backyard" rebuilders overlook or never understand their use. If you open up a so-called rebuilt carburetor and still see sediment in the bottom of the fuel reservoir, that is usually a sign that the rebuilder never went any further than replacing the obvious wear parts like needle valve, seat, accelerator pump, gaskets, and sometimes, the float. Even if rebuilt perfectly, the installer will be responsible for getting it back on with no vacuum leaks and making the fine tuning final adjustments. Have you gone back to the shop you paid your hard earned cash and asked if they could make it right?John Clary
Greer, SC
SDC member since 1975
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Originally posted by jostanton1 View PostI had the stromberg 2 barrel rebuilt on my 289 GT Hawk. And the engine still runs rough, some misfire and can't idle to 550 rpm. Timing and points set. Plugs show carbon, so it's running rich for sure. I noticed gas dripping at the throttle shaft on the drivers side. Could the floats be messed up? I paid $200 for the rebuild from the only carburetor rebuild shop in Vegas. Now I'm having my doubts that he knew what he was doing.
I had one that did the same thing after a carb rebuild. I lowered the float level to fix it. It ended up well below the spec I had, but didn't affect it's opperation any.
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When was the last time the valves were adjusted ? Could very well be the cause of the rough running.
As far as jetting, all the rebuilder can do is verify the "original" jetting is in place and set the float height and drop. Can't bad mouth him for the jetting. Also, if the fuel pump is putting out too much pressure, this will cause an over rich condition. And yes, a stock pump "can" do this. BUT, you didn't mention that detail..!
A tiny (almost invisible) spec of dirt can cause a needle and seat leak, causing a rich condition.
Mike
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Originally posted by jostanton1 View PostI had the stromberg 2 barrel rebuilt on my 289 GT Hawk. And the engine still runs rough, some misfire and can't idle to 550 rpm. Timing and points set. Plugs show carbon, so it's running rich for sure. I noticed gas dripping at the throttle shaft on the drivers side. Could the floats be messed up? I paid $200 for the rebuild from the only carburetor rebuild shop in Vegas. Now I'm having my doubts that he knew what he was doing.Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia.
'64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Avanti R-1, Museum R-4 engine, '72 Gravely Model 430 with Onan engine
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To start with you should be assure that everything is in spec, the intake manifold should be resurfaced to assure no leaks as with the exhaust manifolds. Carb to manifold gaskets clean and tight (but not over tight), check fuel pump pressure. Make sure there is no debris at the needle and seat rubber tipped needle is better, confirm the float height. Jetting should not make any difference as far as idling and running rich, there isn't that much difference between the smallest and the largest. An issue with the idle jets would only be a lean condition as they don't get any bigger they just get restricted.
About the only way a rich mixture can occur is float too high, a leaking needle and seat or choke not fully open. Excessive fuel pump pressure would be uncommon.
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My FIRST guess would be worn Centrifugal Weights in the Prestolite Distributor (if correctly equipped, and if it's a '62-'64).
Number TWO possibility is: since they obviously did not re-bush the Throttle Shaft holes in the Aluminum Carb. Base, that will be a problem.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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Exactly what I thought. I've rebuilt dozens of the things. I have the standard mechanical fuel pump. Standard inline fuel filter and stock air cleaner.
Originally posted by PackardV8 View PostA carb shop could hardly be given an easier task than a Stromberg WW.
Start with the basics. Which fuel pump is on the car? Which air filter? Which fuel filter?
jack vines
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