Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Greasing new pins and bushings 58 Hawk

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Front Axle / Front Suspension: Greasing new pins and bushings 58 Hawk

    I did a search (unsuccessfully) on why my new "pins and bushings" won't take grease. Well, that's not totally accurate, I got one to take several pumps and another to take a couple but the rest would take none.

    I pregreased as I assembled the front end but thought it would probably pump through and emerge where the rubber "seals" are located. I believe I did read in one of the searches about backing the bushings out a bit and then greasing but given that I pre-greased I failed to see how that would do anything.

    Thanks

  • #2
    Perhaps change the nipple, I have had nipples that would not take grease with applying all my might on the gun, with a new nipple it went in with ease.

    Comment


    • #3
      Sometimes, you can pressure up the fitting, the slowly rotate the part, while adding pressure. For king pins, this would require a helper, and for front suspension bushings, you would need to raise, and lower the car, to rotate the bushing. On heavy equipment, an old trick is to remove the grease fitting, and plumb in a porta power. This will force lighter oil into the joint, creating a path for the grease to follow. Good Luck with it.

      Comment


      • #4
        Did you use a spreading tool on the A-arm ends when instaling the bushings?
        Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by gordr View Post
          Did you use a spreading tool on the A-arm ends when instaling the bushings?
          I used my home made tool, it wasn't the best but it sorta worked I used a dial caliper to see how much the "spread" was. I wondered if that would bake a difference??

          Comment


          • #6
            Remove grease zerks, clean or replace them. Some of them have small ball bearings that act like check valves and some just have road grime that stops the flow. Test zerks before installation with grease gun or air pressure just be careful. GOOD LUCK

            Comment


            • #7
              If it's suspension zerks that won't take the grease, then get someone to bounce the front end while you try pumping the grease.

              If it's steering zerks, then get the tires off the ground and have someone turn the steering back and forth while you try pumping.

              Comment


              • #8
                All New Parts, in a couple of instances after trying to pump grease in a small amount seeped back out the zerk. I thought I would be able to see grease come out where the seal is positioned.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Grease solidifies over time. Change zerk. There is a gadget that sometimes works. You snap it on zerk and smack it with a 2 lb hammer. If grease has solidified lots of time and WD-40 are required. As noted above, take weight off front wheel , remove zerk, spray WD-40 into bushings daily. If it doesn't work in a month, disassemble and clean out old petrfied grease. Use good quality low wax grease. ( I have only seen the 'gadget' at farm implement dealers)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Just google zerk zapper. You'll find it at ebay or various stores.
                    Best of luck.
                    sigpic

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      It does not appear that the majority of this "Help" will work on ALL NEW Parts!
                      StudeRich
                      Second Generation Stude Driver,
                      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Indeed! I'm not sure you can keep pumping grease into those things til it runs out all over. If parts are new ( I use ample Lubriplate when replacing them) and parts are snug you might not be able force excess grease into them. I have had them just take a couple squirts and quit.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          As the OP and StudeRich said, all new parts. I hate to think that all the new zerks in a batch are bad but it is a really quick and cheap procedure to replace a zerk with a new, from a different store (or old but cleaned up one) and see what happens.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1880.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	100.6 KB
ID:	1724020Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1869.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	109.8 KB
ID:	1724021Not that a picture makes any difference but I like pictures

                            I suspect that maybe with fairly tight clearances (threads in the bushings) and the fact I prelubed it all, maybe I am worrying over nothing, at the speed of reassembly it may be years (I hope not) before I get 1000 miles on the car.
                            Thanks to all that contributed their knowledge and experience!!

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X