Electric Fuel pump for priming needs ONLY

[LeoH]

I think with today's lousy gas a primer pump is a great scheme. I would be very careful to purchase one that allows "flow-thru" so when you shut the electric one off the manual pump can pull gas thru it. Not all electric pumps allow this you can waste a lot of time on installation that must be repeated; don't ask how I know this !

BTW, I love to buy from Studebaker International but there electric pump has almost zero info on voltage, Positivre-negative ground or flow thru and no one there can describe what they are selling.

Murray

Another issue with the electric fuel pump from SI? It's a 5# and higher pump, which is fine for a V8, but too much pressure for the 6s. Also, for those few of us with Studes as daily drivers, there is a problem now with getting an off the shelf new/reman mechanical fuel pump now, so unless you have a backup mechanical pump ready to go, you either have to go with the electric pump or sit around and wait for a kit and have your mechanical pump rebuilt. At least for the 170 sixes.

[wh22366]

I'm kinda happy with my swap to an electric (only) pump. The gas in my Hawk's carb would expand and flood the engine when I shut it off hot and refuse to start unless I left it for a half hour. With an electric Carter P60504 (Fred Buchholz tells me it's been replaced by Carter P90091) wired in I can control fuel delivery. I wired one side of a toggle for prime, the other side for run (through a oil pressure switch) and I use the off position and sit for 10-15 seconds at idle, lowering the level in the float bowl before shutoff. She starts right up after that last hot shutoff with no additional gas pedal action.

I can understand why many on the forum want to keep systems on their cars as original as possible, but there's still plenty of other areas left to maintain when you don't need to worry about points and mechanical fuel pumps.

[TWChamp]

That's a good point about shutting off the fuel to lower the carb level. My 50 Champion has the same boiling problem during short stops.

[tim333]

Never have problems with my 57 Commander or 36 Ford with carbs and fuel pumps rebuilt with updated kits. Drove the 57 yesterday in 92 degree heat to a car show 71 miles each way.

[TWChamp]

That's what's confusing. My 50 Champion has boiling gas problems during short stops, but my 50 Land Cruiser does fine. The gas evaporates if either car sets for a couple weeks, so the Land Cruiser needs to crank for about 10 seconds to fill the carb. My Champion has an electric pump, but I might rebuild the mechanical with new materials and reinstall it.

[rodnutrandy]

I put a small electric pump on my M series to prime carb .Also found my stock pump was putting out 9 PSI. So I put a regulator close to carb . (carb recommends 5 PSI ) I have switch going thru a fuse to pump . Has worked perfectly for last 3 years .

[blackhawk61]

will an edelbrock 17301 pump work as a "pull thru" pump to be used just for priming ?

[345 DeSoto]

The Edelbrock 17301 is a pull through type pump. If you wish to leave it on, you'll need an accurate Fuel Pressure Regulator...

[chet445]

General question: What pressure is okay using the electric fuel pump? I am using an electric fuel pump on my Hawk 289 two barrel carb and wonder if the electric pump might be dumping too much fuel in the carb. but then again I suppose it would flood out.

[blackhawk61]

Thanks for your reply. I only want to use it to prime and then turn it off.

[StudeRich]

I hate to even get started on this subject as I know we have mostly Pro-Electric Fuel Pump Members here.

My situation in a Colder climate than some, may differ BUT:
I have never had Vapor lock problems or been concerned by a little bit of cold cranking on my V8 Studes.

I happen to LIKE getting some Oil moving and Pressure up, before firing longer than a week standing Engines.
My OEM, Original Carter rebuilt Pumps always deliver with no problem and no need for any stink'n Electric.

I do not overheat or damage Batteries or Starters by using 10 to 15 second starter intervals until Oil Pressure is up and the Engine starts. That is what a good Battery and Generator or Alternator is for.

[345 DeSoto]

I have to regulate my pressure to 2 1/2 - 3 lbs or else it will overpower the needle/seat in my Edelbrock 1404....

[Mike Van Veghten]

Not another primer for a hand grenade..?!
Do some simple homework and follow the trail of where the fuel goes...and the POSSIBLE...problems that may occur.

Mike

[Topper2011]

If you use a British SU electric fuel pump, they will be the correct pressure for our cars, about 2-3psi. I've had Rovers and MGBs. A lot of people on the British Forums use the Faucet fuel pumps.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=25001&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=FAC-60107&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0ozlvaCw4AIVAylpCh0xHALEEAQYBSABEgJlPfD_BwE

[Hallabutt]

Ben hit on a point worth noting. The quality of fuel in BC is just different then what we have just a few miles south of the border. It may have changed since. I don't own any antique car with an electric fuel pump. When at home I'm usually quite cautious about using non-ethanol fuel. A number of years ago I had my 63 Daytona on Vancouver Island(people not familiar think Victoria). Filled up with N/E fuel in the Seattle area. Fueled up on the island and toured extensively on the Overdrive tour. Drove home and sustained a long wait at the border, all without vapor-lock. Back on the US side stopped for lunch still no problems. Stopped for gas just south of Bellingham, within two miles vapor-lock. As long as I kept moving no problems, stop and vapor-lock. Fuel was very expensive up there, but it beat the hell out of having to deal with V/L.