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Annoying Clutch Pedal Squeak

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  • Clutch / Torque Converter: Annoying Clutch Pedal Squeak

    O.K. -- this may seem minor, but the suspended clutch pedal on my 1964 Daytona makes an annoying squeak when pushed down and when it comes back up.

    I have lubricated the return spring is that is attached to the pedal and the clutch linkage under the hood to no avail.

    The clutch itself works fine -- just a squeaky pedal --

    Ear plugs are one option but I would prefer to just have a quiet clutch pedal --

    Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
    Bill Jackameit
    1964 Challenger Wagonaire
    1964 Daytona Sedan
    Total of 10 Studebakers owned since 1961
    Bill Jackameit's Studebaker Page online since October 1995
    https://billstudepage.homestead.com/files/studpg.htm

    sigpic

  • #2
    Sounds like it needs new nylon bushings.They are cheap but kind of a pain to install.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Dave Bates View Post
      Sounds like it needs new nylon bushings.They are cheap but kind of a pain to install.
      OK -- I see listed at Studebakerparts.com 1543914 PEDAL BUSHINGS FOR ALL CARS 1961-1966 WITH SWING PEDALS INCLUDING AVANTI SOLD AS A SET OF TWO for $7.00 -- where do these go? And why are they a pain to install?
      Bill Jackameit
      1964 Challenger Wagonaire
      1964 Daytona Sedan
      Total of 10 Studebakers owned since 1961
      Bill Jackameit's Studebaker Page online since October 1995
      https://billstudepage.homestead.com/files/studpg.htm

      sigpic

      Comment


      • #4
        They are not at all difficult to install. I suspect you don’t necessarily need new bushings, although they are inexpensive enough to have on hand. Just remove the pivot bolt and the bushings and clean and re-assemble with some white lithium grease or whatever you prefer. The nylon has a natural lubricity but the pedal pivot has been exposed to years of grit and grime and deserves a cleaning.

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        • #5
          They aren't that bad,I just don't like working up under the dash.I just changed my 62 from auto to standard and installed the new bushings when the whole assembly was out.

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          • #6
            I was talking about the clutch bellcrank pivot bushings, under the hood forward of the firewall. You were referring to the bushings in the pedal shaft support bracket under the dash. Both areas do use the same 1543914 Bushing, however.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Studebakercenteroforegon View Post
              I was talking about the clutch bellcrank pivot bushings, under the hood forward of the firewall. You were referring to the bushings in the pedal shaft support bracket under the dash. Both areas do use the same 1543914 Bushing, however.
              The two bushings that go on the pedal assembly under the dash may not be that easy to replace -- I see the clip on the end of the pivot pin on the brake pedal side that secures the pivot pin but it looks like if I remove the clip and and push out the pivot pin I may have problems with the brake and clutch pedals dropping down plus there is that hefty return spring for the clutch pedal that might need to be removed or disconnected which looks like a hassle -- is there any trick to this job? Or do I basically have to disconnect everything and remove the whole assembly to replace the two nylon bushings?

              And where do the two nylon bushings that go under the hood ahead of the firewall go? I don't see those -- could they be missing?
              Bill Jackameit
              1964 Challenger Wagonaire
              1964 Daytona Sedan
              Total of 10 Studebakers owned since 1961
              Bill Jackameit's Studebaker Page online since October 1995
              https://billstudepage.homestead.com/files/studpg.htm

              sigpic

              Comment


              • #8
                I would first try a spray lubricant on the bushings.

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                • #9
                  The ones under the hood, are actually on the shoulder bolt that is the pivot for the clutch bellcrank . There is a link from the pedal assy., to the bellcrank, and from there, to the transmission bellhousing cross shaft. Another source od squeaks could be the pedal return spring. There should be a piece of nylon slipped over the end of the spring where it hooks over the pedal.
                  Bez Auto Alchemy
                  573-318-8948
                  http://bezautoalchemy.com


                  "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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                  • #10
                    Here is a picture of the setup, if it might help.
                    Nice day to all.
                    Attached Files
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                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by christophe View Post
                      Here is a picture of the setup, if it might help.
                      Nice day to all.
                      I have zero experience with this clutch setup. But Christophe's post shows some interesting possibilities. Looks like the upper rod on the mechanism goes through the firewall. If that rod contacts the sheet metal of the firewall, no lubrication or bushings will stop the squeaking. It will be similar to moving a straw up and down against the lid of a "to-go" cup from your favorite fast food restaurant. Check the possibilities of that kind of misalignment & contact before tearing the whole assembly apart.
                      John Clary
                      Greer, SC

                      SDC member since 1975

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jclary View Post
                        I have zero experience with this clutch setup. But Christophe's post shows some interesting possibilities. Looks like the upper rod on the mechanism goes through the firewall. If that rod contacts the sheet metal of the firewall, no lubrication or bushings will stop the squeaking. It will be similar to moving a straw up and down against the lid of a "to-go" cup from your favorite fast food restaurant. Check the possibilities of that kind of misalignment & contact before tearing the whole assembly apart.
                        Very good remark, John. This might well be the case here if some wear shows on the rod. I would use a mechanic's stethoscope here to locate the origin of the squeak.
                        By the way, I hope you are in good shape and enjoying your cars/bikes and the farm.
                        Nice day to all.
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