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Removing square head steel drain plugs easily

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  • Engine: Removing square head steel drain plugs easily

    I was trying to remove the drain plugs in the 289 and not being successful until I remembered the Irwin extractors I had used to remove a rounded nut on a rod cap.
    Put it on and out comes the plug with no chance of the socket slipping off. No more steel plugs either. Link to the set.

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  • #2
    I've used a 6-sided socket with 1/8th ratchet after some heat .... always works....

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    • #3
      I was trying to remove the drain plugs in the 289 and not being successful
      I've used a 6-sided socket with 1/8th ratchet after some heat .... always works....
      There exist 4-point and 8-point sockets for just that application. But yes, getting the two plugs out of the back of the block usually requires the hot wrench assist. (Can you post a photo of that 1/8th ratchet; must be a cute little bugger!)

      And no, it's impossible to clean the block without removing all the plugs; especially the two in the back.

      jack vines
      PackardV8

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      • #4
        the socket fixes to a 1/8th drive ratchet...

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        • #5
          Originally posted by jackb View Post
          the socket fixes to a 1/8th drive ratchet...
          Are you sure you don't mean a 1/4" drive ratchet?

          jack vines
          PackardV8

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          • #6
            Originally posted by 5brown1 View Post
            I was trying to remove the drain plugs in the 289 and not being successful until I remembered the Irwin extractors I had used to remove a rounded nut on a rod cap.
            Put it on and out comes the plug with no chance of the socket slipping off. No more steel plugs either. Link to the set.

            https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-BOLT-GR.../dp/B000QW6K8I
            Good post, I've had a set in my toolbox for a number of years. Just easier than driving a off-size socket on to a stuck plug/bolt/nut and grips like grim death.

            Bob

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            • #7
              I use a 1/2 drive long extension. Put the square end on the plug. Use a 12 inch crescent on the other.

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              • #8
                I have had a 3/8" Drive, shallow well 7/16" and a 1/2 Inch Drive 7/16 EIGHT Point Socket in my tool box for at least 30 Years and one or the other always does this job perfectly.

                Then I follow that up by replacing the square Block Drain Plugs with Brass Pipe thread Plugs with a 5/8" wrench size Hex Head, much easier to remove and NO rust.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                SDC Member Since 1967

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                • #9
                  I found, somewhere, a small, thick, double open end wrench that sat in my toolbox for years because it was marked 1/4 and 5/16 but was bigger that those sizes. I then figured out that they were marked for the head of those sized (NPT)pipe plugs! It fits well, but of course you need room to tap with a hammer which doesn't always work out. The Irwin extractor sounds like a good idea.....

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                  • #10
                    Years ago I replaced both plugs on my car with drain "cocks".....what a pleasure to drain the block in addition to the radiator when I change over the anti-freeze every five years( I also use No-Rosion)

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Hawklover View Post
                      Years ago I replaced both plugs on my car with drain "cocks".....what a pleasure to drain the block in addition to the radiator when I change over the anti-freeze every five years( I also use No-Rosion)
                      Are the openings in these drain plugs large enough to flow debris out of the block? Sounds like it would be a great alternative to removing plugs for flushing.

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                      • #12
                        I've seen those drain plugs at the rear of the block make 1/2 turn and break off due to the inner threaded area being rusted and corroded away. The mess acted like a plug ahead of the rest of the sand, rust and critter crap that I pulled out. The threaded hole is a good size to allow a coat hangar or bore brush in to scrape the rear cylinders of sediment. Just a nasty job but very rewarding in terms of engine performance and experience. Of course, it would be better if the heads were off. OTOH, the threaded block was pristine.. guess it was all that nickel alloy 8-)
                        64 GT Hawk (K7)
                        1970 Avanti (R3)

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                        • #13
                          Correction: 3/8 th's drive (my bad)

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                          • #14
                            As I remember, not all that much detritus flowed out, I assumed I had a clean block to start with, in over 50 years of ownership the car has never overheated, even during its time in Miami Florida during the summer heat. I would say you should consider doing this to your car as you said....a great alternative to removing the plugs for flushing.!
                            Originally posted by T.J. lavallee View Post
                            Are the openings in these drain plugs large enough to flow debris out of the block? Sounds like it would be a great alternative to removing plugs for flushing.

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