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1948 Champion Convertible top question.

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  • Body / Glass: 1948 Champion Convertible top question.

    We have a 48 champion and the motor that lifts the top apparently isn't strong enough. It looks like I need to remove the rear seat and arm rest to get to it. Does anyone know how these come out?

    thanks in advance.

  • #2
    Have you lubed all the pivot points and cables?

    I haven't worked on any Studebaker convertibles, so I can't help IF the motor needs to come out, but usually the motor runs OK or is dead. Before removing the motor, I'd make sure the proper voltage is reaching the motor also.

    Comment


    • #3
      The ball screws may be rusty. It's likely that the motor is not getting full voltage like TWchamp suggested. Make sure everything is lubricated. The motor is plenty strong. It just needs to have everything lubricated, nothing bent, and full voltage. Try it with the engine running at fast idle.

      You should purchase the shop manual, the body parts catalog and the chassis parts catalog. They have lots of pictures and show how things connect to each other.
      Last edited by RadioRoy; 12-19-2017, 05:46 PM.
      RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


      10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
      4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
      5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks all. Everything is lubed and free. The screws run fine when unhooked. I will check voltage.

        Comment


        • #5
          The screws have to be set at exactly the same length as each other. If they are even one turn off of each other, they will cock and jam the mechanism. It's not like a hydraulic system that self levels the pistons.
          RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


          10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
          4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
          5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

          Comment


          • #6
            Been there. I have to seriously question whether the dumb things ever worked. Took that crap out and raised and lowered the top manually. That worked just fine.

            Comment


            • #7
              Mine works fine and has since 1973 when I fixed it. As I have said before, you do not have to redesign these cars to make them work properly. Just bring them back to factory specification.

              Raise and lower the top with the engine running at a fast idle.

              To answer the other question, you must remove the rear seat cushion and back, plus remove the side panels and window handles to access the motor and the ball screws. The system is illustrated in the body parts catalog.
              Last edited by RadioRoy; 12-19-2017, 05:47 PM.
              RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


              10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
              4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
              5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks all. I started it and at fast idle it does the same thing about 1 to 2 turns then stops. Like the motor isn't strong enough.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Maybe the motor needs brushes, has some crud in it, or maybe the wiring connections are corroded.
                  RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


                  10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                  4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                  5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
                    Mine works fine and has since 1973 when I fixed it.. As I have said at least a dozen times, you do not have to redesign these cars to make them work properly. Just bring them back to factory specification.

                    Raise and lower the top with the engine running at a fast idle.

                    To answer the other question, you must remove the rear seat cushion and back, plus remove the side panels and window handles to access the motor and the ball screws. The system is illustrated in the body parts catalog.
                    Do you know where I might find the body parts catalog?
                    Thanks

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Studebaker International sell body and chassis books. So does the Studebaker National Museum. I was going to buy both the other day from the museum, but a good pair showed up on ebay for a cheap price, so I bought them. If I ever find the pair I bought from SI, then I'll have an extra pair to sell.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        SI has a CD for reasonable price with the Parts book and Manuals for several usable other things. About half the price of one manual. Its in PDF.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Last edited by RadioRoy; 12-19-2017, 05:46 PM.
                          RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


                          10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                          4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                          5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I checked voltage at switch 6 volts going in 3.5 coming out and 3.5 at the motor.
                            What should it be?
                            Thanks in advance

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Sounds like the switch contacts are corroded. Should be 6 going in and 6 coming out. 3.5 is not enough. Actually, 6 is a misnomer it should be 6.3 to around 6.7 volts.

                              Sometimes the switch can be disassembled, contacts cleaned, silicone grease (not silicone seal) on the contacts and you are good to go. Sometimes the switch cannot be saved.
                              RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


                              10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                              4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                              5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

                              Comment

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