I am putting these instructions in a new thread which I hope will come up easier in searches.
This will recap our experience installing a split windshield with reveal molding in a 1946 Champion Business Coupe. There certainly are other materials and methods to do this job, but hopefully this will add to the overall base of knowledge for installing split windshields, as there seems to be very little information available about how to do it, either online or in Studebaker literature. Two experienced glass installers worked together on the job.
The 1946 Champion split windshield is installed from inside the car, not outside.
Before starting, make sure the windshield pinch weld area is free of lumps of body filler, or bends that could cause a pressure point on the glass and break it, or cause a leak.
Clean the area where the gasket will seal to get rid of any oil or grease.
Avoid putting water or other lubricants on the gasket or glass at this time, as it could prevent the glass bedding compound from sealing. If the glass is cleaned, let it dry before inserting it into the gasket.
We first put both windshield pieces in the gasket on a work table outside the car (without the divider bar) and then attempted to install the glasses together as one unit. This did not work for us and the attempt was ended quickly, as it was just too much to handle for this application.
Next, the gasket with only the passenger side glass in it, was installed using the rope in method. There are a number of detailed videos for the rope method available, so I will not add anything about it except to say make sure a very strong cord is used, as it has to be pulled pretty hard and a break would be a real mess. I personally would avoid cotton or jute cord and use either nylon or polyester.
We made sure that the two internal rectangular "tabs" on the gasket which separate the windshield pieces were centered on the glass, and in the center of the windshield opening.From the inside, slant the top of the glass toward the rear of the car. Push the lower edge of the gasket assembly out over the body, and beginning in the center, rope the gasket over the body and work toward the corner. Then up to the upper corner and around to center. The glass is a tight fit and it takes time, effort, and care not to damage anything.
The large suction handles used by the installers were VERY key tools in positioning the glass. Also, the installers had metal hooks which were a big help in pulling the gasket into position over the body and glass, especially when things got very tight and the rope needed some help moving ahead. I bought a couple of small, inexpensive suction tools at Harbor Freight to use, but we ended up using the installer's cups. You will be miles ahead to use the cups.
After the first glass was in, the gasket was pushed into place on the driver's side to check the fit and do any repositioning required. Then the driver's side glass was inserted into it in the lower area of the gasket, and then roped into place the rest of the way around. The glass was then pushed with the cups and bumped into position fully seated in the gasket, and gasket to the body was pushed with fingers to seat fully on the body.
Most of the information I have been able to review indicates that that the glass will leak if the gaskets aren't sealed. 3M part number 08509 Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound sealer was used and it is messy to cleanup, as other users have stated. I used a non-petroleum based wax and grease remover on terry cloth for clean up. It requires more work, but I believe is easier on the paint than mineral spirits or some other options.
We chose to add the sealer after the gasket and glass were installed, as it was much less messy than roping the gasket over a bead of sealer placed on the body first. A really useful thing we did was to put masking tape around the gasket before applying the sealer, both on the body and on the glass. The excess sealer ended up on the tape and it was very easy to remove it. We put sealer between the gasket and the body, and between the gasket and the glass. It helped to have a very small tip cut on the tube when doing this, and one of the guys pulled a gasket hook in front of the sealer tube so the tip could fit into the tighter spaces. The sealer is thick, so take your time. Two tubes was enough to install the windshield, quarter windows and back glass.
At this point, it was time for the reveal molding stainless trim, and it was quite a challenge. It appears that the reproduction gasket we had does not have grooves as large for the trim as the original gasket. The installers used some spray silicon lubricant at this point to help the molding move into place. The technique which worked best for us was to push the lower, inner end of one piece of molding into the grooves at the lower, outer edge of the gasket. Once it was in the groove, push the molding toward the windshield divider, keeping it as flat as you can against the gasket, and working it into the grooves. Then work around the lower corner, up the vertical, and to center with the upper part of the trim. It took a lot of bumping with the heel of the hand, use of the hook and pushing hard with fingers.
Repeat process for the other side.
Next was the center windshield divider. The divider is pictured disassembled. It is made up of (in this order) the outer stainless divider trim, the triangular rubber seal with internal metal strip that wedges onto the stainless trim, the flat rubber strip, the interior trim piece, and the screws for the assembly. The stainless trim and triangular seal are assembled together before being installed between the glasses. It was a little tricky to work the triangular rubber seal into position in the stainless piece as it was a very tight fit. The edges of the stainless trim snap into grooves on each side of the seal and you will need a putty knife to push the rubber into position on the stainless.
Stainless steel screws were used in the divider to avoid rust. Make sure they are not too long and do not distort the stainless or push it off the seal. The assembly was dry fitted between the windshield pieces, and about 3/4" had to be trimmed from both ends of the triangular seal. The installers insisted on using urethane around the divider seals, and at this point I went long with them. The divider seal was coated with a bead of the urethane and installed between the glasses from the outside. Looking from the inside, we made sure the urethane flowed into all the gaps between glass , gasket, and body.
The flat rubber seal strip, inside trim piece and screws are then attached from inside the car. The reproduction triangular seal has a small metal strip inside it which is threaded for the screws. The strip is not very strong and can easily be bent by hand. For this reason, we chose to only tighten the screws with three fingers on the screwdriver, to avoid distorting the seal. This is not an area you want a leak.
Best of luck. This is a tough job, don't try it by yourself. Let me know what questions you have and I will try to answer them.
This will recap our experience installing a split windshield with reveal molding in a 1946 Champion Business Coupe. There certainly are other materials and methods to do this job, but hopefully this will add to the overall base of knowledge for installing split windshields, as there seems to be very little information available about how to do it, either online or in Studebaker literature. Two experienced glass installers worked together on the job.
The 1946 Champion split windshield is installed from inside the car, not outside.
Before starting, make sure the windshield pinch weld area is free of lumps of body filler, or bends that could cause a pressure point on the glass and break it, or cause a leak.
Clean the area where the gasket will seal to get rid of any oil or grease.
Avoid putting water or other lubricants on the gasket or glass at this time, as it could prevent the glass bedding compound from sealing. If the glass is cleaned, let it dry before inserting it into the gasket.
We first put both windshield pieces in the gasket on a work table outside the car (without the divider bar) and then attempted to install the glasses together as one unit. This did not work for us and the attempt was ended quickly, as it was just too much to handle for this application.
Next, the gasket with only the passenger side glass in it, was installed using the rope in method. There are a number of detailed videos for the rope method available, so I will not add anything about it except to say make sure a very strong cord is used, as it has to be pulled pretty hard and a break would be a real mess. I personally would avoid cotton or jute cord and use either nylon or polyester.
We made sure that the two internal rectangular "tabs" on the gasket which separate the windshield pieces were centered on the glass, and in the center of the windshield opening.From the inside, slant the top of the glass toward the rear of the car. Push the lower edge of the gasket assembly out over the body, and beginning in the center, rope the gasket over the body and work toward the corner. Then up to the upper corner and around to center. The glass is a tight fit and it takes time, effort, and care not to damage anything.
The large suction handles used by the installers were VERY key tools in positioning the glass. Also, the installers had metal hooks which were a big help in pulling the gasket into position over the body and glass, especially when things got very tight and the rope needed some help moving ahead. I bought a couple of small, inexpensive suction tools at Harbor Freight to use, but we ended up using the installer's cups. You will be miles ahead to use the cups.
After the first glass was in, the gasket was pushed into place on the driver's side to check the fit and do any repositioning required. Then the driver's side glass was inserted into it in the lower area of the gasket, and then roped into place the rest of the way around. The glass was then pushed with the cups and bumped into position fully seated in the gasket, and gasket to the body was pushed with fingers to seat fully on the body.
Most of the information I have been able to review indicates that that the glass will leak if the gaskets aren't sealed. 3M part number 08509 Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound sealer was used and it is messy to cleanup, as other users have stated. I used a non-petroleum based wax and grease remover on terry cloth for clean up. It requires more work, but I believe is easier on the paint than mineral spirits or some other options.
We chose to add the sealer after the gasket and glass were installed, as it was much less messy than roping the gasket over a bead of sealer placed on the body first. A really useful thing we did was to put masking tape around the gasket before applying the sealer, both on the body and on the glass. The excess sealer ended up on the tape and it was very easy to remove it. We put sealer between the gasket and the body, and between the gasket and the glass. It helped to have a very small tip cut on the tube when doing this, and one of the guys pulled a gasket hook in front of the sealer tube so the tip could fit into the tighter spaces. The sealer is thick, so take your time. Two tubes was enough to install the windshield, quarter windows and back glass.
At this point, it was time for the reveal molding stainless trim, and it was quite a challenge. It appears that the reproduction gasket we had does not have grooves as large for the trim as the original gasket. The installers used some spray silicon lubricant at this point to help the molding move into place. The technique which worked best for us was to push the lower, inner end of one piece of molding into the grooves at the lower, outer edge of the gasket. Once it was in the groove, push the molding toward the windshield divider, keeping it as flat as you can against the gasket, and working it into the grooves. Then work around the lower corner, up the vertical, and to center with the upper part of the trim. It took a lot of bumping with the heel of the hand, use of the hook and pushing hard with fingers.
Repeat process for the other side.
Next was the center windshield divider. The divider is pictured disassembled. It is made up of (in this order) the outer stainless divider trim, the triangular rubber seal with internal metal strip that wedges onto the stainless trim, the flat rubber strip, the interior trim piece, and the screws for the assembly. The stainless trim and triangular seal are assembled together before being installed between the glasses. It was a little tricky to work the triangular rubber seal into position in the stainless piece as it was a very tight fit. The edges of the stainless trim snap into grooves on each side of the seal and you will need a putty knife to push the rubber into position on the stainless.
Stainless steel screws were used in the divider to avoid rust. Make sure they are not too long and do not distort the stainless or push it off the seal. The assembly was dry fitted between the windshield pieces, and about 3/4" had to be trimmed from both ends of the triangular seal. The installers insisted on using urethane around the divider seals, and at this point I went long with them. The divider seal was coated with a bead of the urethane and installed between the glasses from the outside. Looking from the inside, we made sure the urethane flowed into all the gaps between glass , gasket, and body.
The flat rubber seal strip, inside trim piece and screws are then attached from inside the car. The reproduction triangular seal has a small metal strip inside it which is threaded for the screws. The strip is not very strong and can easily be bent by hand. For this reason, we chose to only tighten the screws with three fingers on the screwdriver, to avoid distorting the seal. This is not an area you want a leak.
Best of luck. This is a tough job, don't try it by yourself. Let me know what questions you have and I will try to answer them.
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