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  • Body / Glass: Removing a door from a '53 Commander

    I am sure this has been discussed before, but we all know how well the search function works here.
    I am getting ready to replace the driver's door on my '53 Commander Starliner. I don't believe it has ever been loosened for adjustment, let alone removed. I would like some ideas before I start, since I know it is easy to ruin the slots in the bolts that hold the door to the hinge.
    Thanks in advance.
    Howard - Los Angeles chapter SDC
    '53 Commander Starliner (Finally running and driving, but still in process)
    '56 Golden Hawk (3 speed/overdrive, Power steering - Running, but not yet driving)
    '58 Packard Hawk. A partially restored car that was not completely assembled.

  • #2
    Find 1/2" drive impact sockets that have the right size Phillips type for the hinge bolts. Cut down the air pressure and go easy on the breakaway of the bolts. Could also spray a little Kroil or similar penetrating oil on the bolts a day or two before and see if any seeps in. If you run into any problems call.

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    • #3
      These are Pozi-drive screws, not Phillips, correct ?
      We supply Stainless Steel Fixings, Stainless Steel Fasteners and Banding Solutions. Nails, nuts, bolts, screws, wall ties and many more available for same day despatch!
      '53 Commander
      Art Morrison chassis
      LS6 ASA/4L60E

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      • #4
        "Pozi-drive screws, not Phillips, correct ?"

        Correct, don't try to do it with simply a large Phillips bit; get the right one.
        Also, in my experience an impact driver works best.
        Mebbe not the proper term, but I'm talking about one of those spring loaded contraptions that you pre-twist, put in position, and then strike sharply with a BFH.

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        • #5
          Good information! I've rounded several off in my day by not knowing this. Anyone know what size bit I should buy? I have the hammer impact driver set already, so just need bits.

          Thanks,
          Dwayne

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          • #6
            Impact driver is what I call them. Great for working on motorcycles, too. Select the proper direction, pre-load it in that direction while holding it with your hand and whack the end with a BFH.
            RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


            10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
            4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
            5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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            • #7
              I've used impact driver to start, then proper Phillip's head attachment on the end of an adapted 1/2 inch breaker bar. This setup has worked for me, but be careful to occasionally run it back into the hole and use penetrating oil. The risk of breaking a bolt off is real, and not something you will want to deal with. Patience is your friend, but if you do break one off, don't make the mistake of using an "easy out." You will have to drill it out carefully. These bolts are hard and not easy to drill, but it's nothing compared to trying to drill through or around a broken easy out. This is the voice of experience speaking!

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              • #8


                Take on a wide range of projects with CRAFTSMAN® Impact Drivers designed to deliver power and torque. Tackle heavy-duty projects with pride.


                HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                Jeff


                Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK View Post
                  https://www.harborfreight.com/impact...ase-37530.html

                  Take on a wide range of projects with CRAFTSMAN® Impact Drivers designed to deliver power and torque. Tackle heavy-duty projects with pride.


                  https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2.../dp/B000NPUJYE
                  The sears version posted above is what soured me on Sears. I purchased that driver to remove the hinge screws from my 54K as I figured it would be better than the HF version. About the second wack, the bit broke. Package said lifetime warranty so I took it back. Every employee, up to the store manager said the bits were't warrantied. I just asked where it said that on the package and what didn't I understand about lifetime warranty. There was no language about the bits not being warrantied so I left, went to HF and purchased the version above. It worked well and still sets in tool cabinet ready for the next use. Don't forget about heat and penetrating oil.

                  I don't want to continue the rant about Sears but I just can't forget this event so I guess I am.

                  Bob

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                  • #10
                    Employees that are afraid to serve the customer for fear of angering the boss somehow, have alienated many customers.

                    There really needs to be some employee training on what/whom is important and what to ignore.
                    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


                    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I bought the Mac version. A little better quality, because I planned on using it more than once, and the bits are covered under warranty. It worked well on my door hinges and motorcycle covers.
                      Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.

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                      • #12
                        Pozi screws were not developed and patented till the 60's. A 53K does not have them.

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                        • #13
                          Alan, are you saying these ARE Phillips and not Posi-Drive?
                          Howard - Los Angeles chapter SDC
                          '53 Commander Starliner (Finally running and driving, but still in process)
                          '56 Golden Hawk (3 speed/overdrive, Power steering - Running, but not yet driving)
                          '58 Packard Hawk. A partially restored car that was not completely assembled.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Read the link in #3 post about the Posi screws. Both of the impact kits I have from both Sears and Chinese Freight, the largest Phillips is a #3PH. That will chew up the head on the door screw. You need a #4PH. The #3 is on a 5/16" shank and the #4 is on a 3/8" shank and the only way I have found to get a #4 is in a socket set.

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                            • #15
                              When you finally get the door off, coat the bolts liberally with anti-sieze when re-installing!

                              Jeff in ND

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