Ignition: 62 GT Hawk: Cranks, fires, and dies

[santa]

Friends, your thoughts for a guy who does not know auto electrical with any degree of certainty.

62 GT Hawk with Petronix electronic ignition conversion done by Fairborn to a rebuilt Delco distributor and installed by my mechanic in 2011. Accel coil.
It cranks, fires and dies.
It sounds like a ballast resistor on a points ignition

There is no power on the light green wire on the solenoid - the electric fuel pump runs off it and is not running when key is turned. Pump was tested and works and was hotwired for the cranking.

The solenoid was replaced when it was converted to an alternator in 2014.
It has been driven for less than a thousand miles since the electronic ignition was installed by my mechanic.

I have yet to try and hotwire it.

Is the electronic ignition fried or is there another culprit?

[JoeHall]

Sounds like the power circuit is only connected to the start side of the ignition, and breaking as soon as you release the key from the start position. To test that hypothesis, simply run a wire from anything that maintains power as long as the key is turned on. Or if that seems too complicated, to test, simply run a wire from the positive post on the battery.

[santa]

Run it to where - hot side of the coil?
If that works, does it suggest ignition switch or something else?

[graylark]

Several possibilities one of which is if the pink resistance wire is still being used in your ignition circuit could have burned out. The ignition switch could be bad, the one on my v8 lark went bad shortly after I added electric fuel pump. I added a relay to fuel pump circuit when I replaced ignition switch. Also if you have an original tachometer the ignition power is routed through the tach sensor unit. Then there are possible unknown wiring changes by others that may add confusion to diagnosing the problem.

[santa]

Thanks.
Sounds like I will have my hands full.
I will try hot wiring it.
Have a new ignition switch - if hot wiring works, I will install it.

[StudeRich]

The "no power situation" on the green small wire on the "IGN" Terminal of the Solenoid means nothing unless while testing you have someone holding the Key to "Start" position.

If however you DID do that, then your "New" Solenoid is done.

[WCP]

Is your carb float bowl empty? As StudeRich points out, the green wire is only live in the start position and your fuel pump in not pumping in the run position.

[santa]

Turns out it was not the solenoid.
Put a new one in and same trouble - no power to the lead when cranked.
Having it run while hot wired suggested a break in the line from the ignition to the coil.

Replaced the connector at the ignition and it started right up.

Thanks for the assistance.

Thanks for the assistance - and Happy Labor Day.