Ignition: 1963 6 cylinder distributor

[azer133]

Im looking to replace my distributor in my 63 lark 6cly. Can't seem to find anything online, anyone know what distributor I need or where I could get one ?

[Ross]

Yours is missing? Worn out? Or are you looking for electronic ignition? I have found those distributors to be very durable and give quite satisfactory performance with just normal tuneup procedures and a few drops of oil every few years. If your is trashed someone here is bound to have one or three or five.

[azer133]

I've replaced cap rotor and points I can set the the points and timming it will run great for a day or so then start missing really bad. I've also put new plugs and wires and a coil pack on it. I have had a couple of good mechanics take a look at it they both recommend getting a new distributor.

[altair]

You mentioned cap, rotor and points, did you replace the condenser? You can remove the distributor and spin it on a bench at high speed and check the point gap. Do this several times to confirm if the points stay in adjustment. You have to determine if your problem is mechanical or electrical. Most mechanics I have dealt with suffer from the same syndrome TIME and MONEY. Generally trouble does not make MONEY because it takes too much TIME. The quickest and most economical fix is to replace. In my case time is not an issue and I like to get to the bottom of things and find the problem.

I once had a newer vehicle and the red light came on and it was wisped through the shop with an O2 censor replacement (thank you very much you are good to go) only to have the same performance repeated three times. By now I have a head of steam and I made it abundantly clear to get their heads into this vehicle and fix it properly or I want a replacement vehicle. Low and behold the diagnoses was returned that the exhaust gas recirculator was malfunctioning, which was the problem from the beginning. You could go to 10 high end mechanics only to be told the same thing "replace it" however you could to a back yarder who isn't infected with the "time and money" syndrome and most likely come to a satisfactory conclusion.

[Bud]

Before replacing the distributor, be sure that is what is causing your problem. The best thing to do is find someone that has a distributor machine to test your distributor for things such as worn shaft bushings, worn centrifugal advance weights, proper point dwell and a properly functioning vacuum advance. If you can't find someone in your area to check the distributor for you, I would be happy to do it as I have a working Snap On distributor machine in my shop. Bud

[StudeRich]

I'll tell you what William, THAT offer from Bud is as good as gold and ten times better than someone else's worn out Used Dist. since there ARE no New ones, and "Factory re-manufactured" ones when you can find them, are often only cosmetically "restored".

[Boatbum2]

Good info in all the above replies. I bought my 63 Lark in 1965 & still driving it (372K miles). Rebuilt engine in 1980 @ 180K miles. Driving it to the eclipse soon. I have two distributors and switch back and forth every 50K miles. Bought an electronic distributor several years ago. Lost 4 miles/ gallon. Spent one summer trying to get it to match the OEM units. Gave up, it sits on the shelf. The advance weights & shaft bushings have to be cleaned and oiled every 50K. If you don't want to rebuild it yourself, take Bud up & have him do it. Marlinfish

[StudeRich]

That is AWESOME Harold! I guess we don't see you here often because you're out in the garage Lubing, Changing Oil, Tuning and generally maintaining that little Lark Six!

Really though, that is incredible to run a Six that long and still at it! Very impressive, and very good maintenance will allow that, probably NOT at the"Speedy Lube"!

We all know that a bullet proof Stude. V8 can easily do that kind of mileage, but the OHV Sixes were always over-revved and over-heated due to the too Low, Factory 3.73 Gears on direct drive Cars and the Heads cracked before most ever got to 100,000 Miles or a LOT sooner.

[christophe]

I have found that recent Standard ignition points can be troublesome very quickly. If your points are burned or pitted, change your condenser and check its ground to the dist. You should also check that the pink resistor wire is doing his job well and that the coil is of the right type. Here is some data if you need it.
Harold, congratulations for your dedication to your OHV6. I hope, I'll do as well as you with mine.

[Ross]

It suddenly dawns on me from what you are describing "runs OK for a few days" that your car may be supplying a full 12 volts to the coil. That high voltage will cause your points to burn/oxidize very quickly. When running, it should be around nine volts, courtesy of the resistor wire that should be feeding the coil. There is a good chance that some clever person bypassed or altered that wire. Check your voltage at the coil while at a nice fast idle and let us know. You could replace distributors till the cows came home and not solve the problem.

[Dwain G.]

Six cylinder cars did not use a pink resister wire or a ballast. They have a green/black wire direct to an 'internal resistance' coil. Look for that wording or for a part number to see if the coil is correct.
Also, are you putting cam lube on the distributor cam? If left dry the points rubbing block wears down rapidly.

[Boatbum2]

Hi StudeRich, You are correct on all the above points! I installed a 4:11 rear end and OD in 1968, 2:90 to 1 in OD. Watch the vacuum gauge & downshift if needed. Has given 28 mpg at 70 for decades. I don't go over 70. At 90,000 did valve job and found one hair line crack, installed coolant recirculation line head to pump to avoid temperature plunge when stat opens in MN cold. The internal recirc hole is small and plugs up. Had to install shut off control for highway when over 85 degrees or overheats. BTW, Studebaker V8 radiator is better than original six radiator, put one in about 1967.
Still at 180K rebuild (1980) it had two hair line valve cracks. But didn't leak and kept using head in spite of having new 1964 head on shelf. Bearings were perfect! Bored out .020" and began using Mobil one oil after break in. At 285,000 installed 1964 head (cast different than 1961 to 63 head) and installed recirc line in it also. At 372K have not had "new" head off yet to know if it cracks also. I'm retired Chem Eng and now drive my Lark all over the country.

[Boatbum2]

Correct on both counts, should be about 9 volts to coil when running, not 12 and I lube the point block again at about 6000 miles. I can usually get 12 to 14K miles on points. Also check voltage of your system to be sure it is not too high. Ignition timing: Due to the tall ratio I have in my six I time at the mark line before factory line(about 2 degrees retarded) to not have too much advance at 2300 rpm and under load of 70 mph (12 to 14" vacuum). Thanks to Christophe for neat spec sheet, I do not have that page.

[christophe]

Six cylinder cars did not use a pink resister wire or a ballast. They have a green/black wire direct to an 'internal resistance' coil. Look for that wording or for a part number to see if the coil is correct.

Hi Dwain, I hope you are all right. Sorry, but my 63S-K has the pink wire(besides, it is shown on the spec sheet), so I assume it is the same for William's car.
To Harold, the spec sheet comes from Bob Johnstone's wonderful site. He does a tremendous job to help us.
As an aside, do you think the 1964 OHV head was an improvement over the early designs?

[Dwain G.]

Hi Dwain, I hope you are all right. Sorry, but my 63S-K has the pink wire(besides, it is shown on the spec sheet), so I assume it is the same for William's car.
To Harold, the spec sheet comes from Bob Johnstone's wonderful site. He does a tremendous job to help us.
As an aside, do you think the 1964 OHV head was an improvement over the early designs?

Christophe, you are absolutely correct. My mistake. '62 was the last year of the resistor coil. '63-on 6 cyl cars are wired same as V8s. I should have remembered replacing the 4 terminal starter solenoid on my own '63 Standard.