When I attempted to attach the splash guards to the radiator side grilles (Parts 1312030, 31, pg. 142, Chassis manual) I discovered the the attachment points must have been deformed or ground off by the chrome plater. At least I think that is what happened. I'm not sure how the splash guard (if I'm using the proper name) is supposed to attach to the side grille. The first picture shows the side grill, the second shows the splash guard or whatever it is called, and the third shows the nub that remains of what I think may be a post that a speed nut may go on. I am thinking I may have to epoxy the two together. If there is a better way I am open to all advice.
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Grille
I had a similar problem with the grilles on my 56J. I ground the bosses flat and drilled and tapped a small diameter shallow threaded hole and used short brass round-headed screws and flat washers to fasten the pans to the grilles. Worked great!
Bill L.
More cautions:
As noted below, you have to be very careful in drilling the pot metal (zinc alloy die casting) grille bosses so you don't go through to the chrome on the oher side. Some people use a bit of masking tape around the drill to govern the depth of the drill. There's just enough "meat" in the bosses to get a shallow tapped hole for a short bolt. Use a bottoming tap and not a starting tap and carefully make the threads, backing out and cleaning the metal away as you go in.Bill L.
1962 GT Hawk -
On my Sky Hawk, I ground the nubs off so that I could bead blast/paint the sheet metal. Used a drill of the appropriate size to drill into the mounting points and attached the sheet metal with 1/4" self taping screws, which I ground the points off of. As I screwed them into the holes, they cut their own threads. Be VERY careful when drilling...there's not much to go before you punch through the chrome on the front...Last edited by 345 DeSoto; 07-12-2017, 09:45 AM.Comment
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A post for a speed nut, or what's left of a threaded stud still in the pot metal?
In any event, I think I'd (very carefully) do as 56GH suggests.Comment
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I thought of drilling and tapping shallow holes, but the thought of breaking through to the other chromed side as 345 DeSoto mentioned worries me. I may try putting a tube over the drill bit exposing only a short end and drill some holes in some scrap metal and see if I can build up enough courage to do that. I don't mind sacrificing a tap by grinding most of the point off and using short screws as suggested by 56GH.Comment
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Definitely one of the more tedious jobs a Stude Hawk restorer is faced with!Comment
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Yes, easy does it on the pressure when drilling the hole. I once had a screw stuck in the chrome upper tail light lens bezel on a '54 Kaiser. Like an idiot, I thought I'd let one of the machine shop guys work on it instead of doing it my self.....He put too much pressure on the drill & went all the way thru the chrome part AND thru the very expensive tail light lens.....(you think studebaker lens' are high...)
Mike SalComment
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If you accidentally drill all the way through on some of the anchor points, you could use color matching tie-ties in those holes and loop it around the chrome piece. Just a thought.Comment
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Those pans were set over the post and bradded. the resulting "Mushroom" held the pan in place. on wifes '57 silver hawk shallow holes and self tapping screws worked great. some one had done this in a previous "Fix" so i had a clue to work from. Luck DoofusComment
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