Ignition: how to hot wire

[studevic]

hello all, i need to move my parts car lark, no keys , how do i hot wire it , i have done it before many years ago but forgot how , old age , thanks from roger

[jclary]

A jumper wire from the battery to the ignition wire on the coil (the wire opposite the one going to the distributor) should do the trick. Be prepared to either use a switch on the jumper wire or alligator clip to disconnect it in case the engine does not crank. Leaving that wire hot, could burn up the points in a very short time. (You probably know that.)

When doing this, I like to use a remote starter switch and do everything over the fender without having to crawl in and out of the car.

[mapman]

Be absolutely certain it is in neutral before starting it this way.
Rob

[tsenecal]

A wire directly to the coil will be fine to start it and move it a short distance. If you plan to run it for any length of time you should wire in a ballast resistor ( in that same wire).

[jclary]

A wire directly to the coil will be fine to start it and move it a short distance. If you plan to run it for any length of time you should wire in a ballast resistor ( in that same wire).

I hadn't given that much thought. All of my Studes have internal resistor coils.

[bensherb]

There are 4 wires on the solenoid mounted on the fender. Connect the large one coming from the battery to the small one marked "I", it should have a green wire with a black tracer on it, that will connect the ignition. Then connect the 2 small ones together or the large battery one to the small one marked "S" to turn the starter, it should have a white with red tracer wire on it.

[64studeavanti]

If you connect the battery to the "I" post, you will be running 12 volts to the 6 volt coil. By design. This should only occur when starting. If you run it like this for any length of time you will fry points and maybe coil.

[altair]

I don't think a resistor is to be considered in this case as it is to be moved in the yard.

Assuming the Lark is neg ground, a jumper from the positive terminal of the battery to the positive terminal on the coil then short a screw driver across from the battery terminal to the start terminal on the relay (solenoid). If the relay has two terminals ignore the ign terminal it is only a bypass for starting. Most have a pink resistor wire from the relay to the coil. In your case none of that will matter.

[Dick Steinkamp]

There are 4 wires on the solenoid mounted on the fender. Connect the large one coming from the battery to the small one marked "I", it should have a green wire with a black tracer on it, that will connect the ignition. Then connect the 2 small ones together or the large battery one to the small one marked "S" to turn the starter, it should have a white with red tracer wire on it.

.......
X2!

[jclary]

Funny how we often approach one of these topics within the framework of our own experiences, instead of really addressing the specific need of the one posing the question. Studevic wants to "yard drive" the car. Having no key, merely wanting to fire it up and drive it to another location on his property. My approach was to offer suggestions for someone working under the hood. I have never been in studevic's position, because I have not wanted to hot wire a vehicle to drive it around. Even in the cars I have restored, when not having the ignition switch in place, I have installed temporary switches, and wired them in the same way ignition switch circuitry would normally function.

As long as the circuit is set up to work just as the normal switch is designed, it does not matter if the wires are attached at the solenoid, battery, or clipped on the back of the ignition switch. The main point is to get the circuitry correct, make it functional, and hopefully, easy to use. In the time I have taken to type this, he has probably already solved the problem to his satisfaction. Unlike me, hasn't bumped his head on the hood in the process.

[StudeRich]

I don't think a resistor is to be considered in this case as it is to be moved in the yard.

Assuming the Lark is neg ground, a jumper from the positive terminal of the battery to the positive terminal on the coil then short a screw driver across from the battery terminal to the start terminal on the relay (solenoid). If the relay has two terminals ignore the ign terminal it is only a bypass for starting. Most have a pink resistor wire from the relay to the coil. In your case none of that will matter.

It probably will not matter to the OP but for the Record, this statement got a bit twisted. The Pink Resistance wire goes to the Ignition switch for constant running on 8 to 9 Volts after starting, but really has nothing to do with the situation at hand.

Also, there is NO "6 Volt Coil" as mentioned in Post #7.

[bensherb]

It probably will not matter to the OP but for the Record, this statement got a bit twisted. The Pink Resistance wire goes to the Ignition switch for constant running on 8 to 9 Volts after starting, but really has nothing to do with the situation at hand.

Also, there is NO "6 Volt Coil" as mentioned in Post #7.

EXACTLY!

Also: I measured the resistance of that pink resistor wire. I don't remember exactly what it measured but it was very low and would have little effect on the voltage to the coil at even twice its legnth. So if that's something you worry about use a ballast resistor or resistor coil. When I changed to a GM HEI distributer, I didn't bother changing the resistor wire to a standard wire because it didn't make enough difference to matter. The HEI works GREAT!

[christophe]

Just for the record, here are the resistance values for the pink primary lead:
1960 V8: 1.52 ohms
1961-1964 V8: 1.80 ohms
1962-1964 Six: 2.1 to 2.2 ohms.

[StudeRich]

Just for the record, here are the resistance values for the pink primary lead:
1960 V8: 1.52 ohms
1961-1964 V8: 1.80 ohms
1962-1964 Six: 2.1 to 2.2 ohms.

Good information but since those years ranges do not match to any of the below, I think it would need to be broken down further into Lark/Hawk and correct YEARS due to:

'60-'61 Hawks having a Early Delco Distributor with Delco Coil, '62 to '64 Hawks having Prestolite Distributors and Coils.

1960 & '61 Larks have a Delco Window Distributor with Delco Coil, 1962 to 1964 Lark Types have a Prestolite Distributor and Coil.

So it matters, which Model the above is referring to.

[studevic]

hello all , problem fixed , car has been moved ,i just put a hot wire to the coil and used a screw driver to short the starter motor and it went with some fuel down the carb , thanks from roger