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V8 Distributor Install... 1956 Power Hawk

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  • Ignition: V8 Distributor Install... 1956 Power Hawk

    After a winter of slumber, went to start the Hawk but no go. The issue was quickly narrowed down to no spark. Tried to file down the points but still no spark. Pulled the distributor, installed new point/condenser and now can not re-install the distributor. I've had this problem in the past and just decided that installing a distributor into a Stude V8 is a PIA period! Due to the flex shaft I reckon... I would seem that it should go right in since nothing engine-wise has moved. When it came out, the rotor was at the 3 O'clock position looking from the front to the windshield.

    Is there a straight forward procedure to installing a distributor in a V8 Stude engine?

    Any advice greatly appreciated... TIA

  • #2
    Normally, if nothing has been moved, the shaft should engage just like it came out. I have had trouble getting a stuck distributor out, but not putting it back. Just make sure it is going in straight. Sometimes when you are leaning over a fender things are not as straight as you think.
    "In the heart of Arkansas."
    Searcy, Arkansas
    1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
    1952 2R pickup

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    • #3
      If the gear is one tooth off, it won't settle down into the oil pump.

      Remember that it turns slightly upon removing or inserting. If it was at three o'clock when it was in the car, you will have to insert it slightly off 3 o"clock to get it to settle at 3 O'clock.

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      • #4
        If the rotor was at 3 o clock before you grabbed it and pulled it out, it had to move a tad so the helical cut gears could clear each other. 1) Try and set the rotor at 2 o clock and work it in. Then you get to the point where the oil pump drive, which is only a thick tab has to get back into the oil pump. This will make the distributor stand out a 1/4" or so. To get past this, complete #1, then grab the fan belt and see if you can turn the engine a bit to move the distributor gear and set the oil pump drive ....
        64 GT Hawk (K7)
        1970 Avanti (R3)

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        • #5
          The farthest that I can insert the distributor is about an inch and a quarter from being seated. So, the end of the shaft is not entering the final "path." If the distributor was a solid shaft, there would be no issues.

          One thing that I can say for sure, the engine tranny combo that will be going in the '55 Prez will be a reliable solid state unit that will be installed prior to dropping the engine/trany into the engine bay.

          I believe that the shaft has to enter the top of the oil pump guide in order to align the gear with the cam.

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          • #6
            If you distributer is staying out 1.25" the oil pump shaft is not going straight down the proper hole in the block casting. It's veering off down a different hole. I had this problem too. You just have to keep trying until you get it to go into the correct hole. Then you'll have to fiddle with getting it into the oil pump.

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            • #7
              Update...

              Spent two hours trying to install the distributor, no go. I'm getting to the point of having it hauled up to Mark Frank's place near Waco as he's a thoroughly experience Stude guy. There's very little regarding such installation processes in the '55 shop manual.

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              • #8
                You do have to remember that the Engine sits in the Car high in the Front, at an angle so straight down will never work.
                Your Oil Pump Drive Shaft is not going through the Hole in the Lifter area to get down to the Oil Pump.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                SDC Member Since 1967

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                • #9
                  If it's truly the engine angle preventing this, why not jack up the rear end and give it another try...
                  64 GT Hawk (K7)
                  1970 Avanti (R3)

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                  • #10
                    I've read of this problem from others but have not experienced it myself. The times I have had the distributor out has always been easy to reinstall it by just spinning the engine. Then gravity lets it sit in place when the end lines up with the oil pump. The main thing is having it in the right position for timing in the first place. That is what RadioRoy is referring to in post #3.
                    59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
                    60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
                    61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
                    62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
                    62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
                    62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
                    63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
                    63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
                    64 Zip Van
                    66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
                    66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                      You do have to remember that the Engine sits in the Car high in the Front, at an angle so straight down will never work.
                      Your Oil Pump Drive Shaft is not going through the Hole in the Lifter area to get down to the Oil Pump.
                      Yes, I've taken this into consideration and always dread the task of re-installing a distributor in a V8. The issue is that I'm working in a very confined space. I sure wish that the distributor was located in the front of the engine but it is not.

                      The car is in a storage unit and I'll remove the battery that will allow me to maneuver a little better but I'm getting close to the end of my rope...

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Warren Webb View Post
                        I've read of this problem from others but have not experienced it myself. The times I have had the distributor out has always been easy to reinstall it by just spinning the engine. Then gravity lets it sit in place when the end lines up with the oil pump. The main thing is having it in the right position for timing in the first place. That is what RadioRoy is referring to in post #3.

                        If you "spin" the engine to allow it to line up and drop in, surely it will no longer be in time. When I removed it, the rotor was at 3 O'clock and the car was in time perfectly. So I see no benefit in spinning the engine. Secondly, the gear engages before the oil pump by about 3/16 of an inch.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by 64V-K7 View Post
                          If it's truly the engine angle preventing this, why not jack up the rear end and give it another try...

                          The car is backed into a storage unit thus that option is not available.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
                            If the gear is one tooth off, it won't settle down into the oil pump.

                            Remember that it turns slightly upon removing or inserting. If it was at three o'clock when it was in the car, you will have to insert it slightly off 3 o"clock to get it to settle at 3 O'clock.

                            I can't even get the gear to engage. It gets stuck at least 3/4" before the gear would be engaged. I go through this every freakin' time when installing a distributor.

                            Yep, according to the shop manual, about 30°clockwise...

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                            • #15
                              Baby sledge? Just kidding, hope you are not there yet.

                              I am very familiar with your problem, and also experience it about every time I drop a distributor in a Hawk, with motor in the car. The long shaft is not lining up with the hole in the block, that it almost exactly fits into. I just keep raising the distributor about 6", then dropping it gently back in. Eventually, almost like magic, it will drop in. Sometimes though, at that point, it still will lack about 3/8" from dropping all the way down. That is because the oil pimp is out of align with the slotted shaft that fits into it. You can rotate the oil pump gear a long screwdriver, or 3/8" all thread about 18" long, with one end ground flat like a screwdriver. That allows for re-positioning the oil pump gear without moving the crank. With that tool, you will also see/feel more clearly where the hole in the block is, that you want to put the distributor shaft through. Hope this is a little clearer than mud.
                              Good luck, and just be patient and keep trying. You will get it, sooner or later.

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