Fuel System: Avanti Fuel Pump

[Ted Johnson]

Yesterday my 64 Avanti quit on me due to no fuel. Pull over manipulate throttle no gas coming in. I see fuel pump below power steering reservoir in left front of engine. Replace with original or is it time for an aftermarket electrical pump? Is original one hard to access?

[rstrasser]

It depends upon what you call hard. Last year when I replaced the fuel pump on my 63 Avanti I removed the battery to give access. Clamped the incoming fuel line, disconnected the other line and removed two bolts and lifedt out the fuel pump. I don't believe I unbolted the power steering pump to get it out of the way.
The modified Carter pump is available from Fairborn Studebaker or David Thibeault My thoughts on a electric fuel pump. Fine; as long as you install a inertia switch and maybe also a low oil pressure switch to turn off the fuel pump in case of a accident.
Ron

[Ted Johnson]

Thanks. No that doesnt sound too bad.

[SN-60]

Thanks. No that doesnt sound too bad.

Removing the power steering pump, with lines left attached, and placing it up out of the way, REALLY gives you a clear path to the fuel pump!

[bezhawk]

Rebuild kits are available for carter fuel pumps if you want to maintain originality. Sadly, good ones, not from Stude vendors or sources.

[52 Ragtop]

I just finished replacing the fuel pump on my 63 Avanti R-2 tonight! It was fairly simple, although, I do NOT have power steering! (makes it easier) <G> A couple things: get new fuel hose before you start, have a good way to clamp off the lines, BOTH of them! or you'll have fuel running out fast! Buy new brass fittings, I got mine all back together yesterday, and had a brass fitting leaking. I did mine at my storage unit, and did not have all my tools there. Wrapped it up tonight and will drive it in to work this week.

Jim

[StudeNorm]

I just finished replacing the fuel pump on my 63 Avanti R-2 tonight! It was fairly simple, although, I do NOT have power steering! (makes it easier) <G> A couple things: get new fuel hose before you start, have a good way to clamp off the lines, BOTH of them! or you'll have fuel running out fast! Buy new brass fittings, I got mine all back together yesterday, and had a brass fitting leaking. I did mine at my storage unit, and did not have all my tools there. Wrapped it up tonight and will drive it in to work this week.

Jim

I need to replace my R2 pump and wasn't able to find any supplier of the M6902 pump or rebuild kits so I am curious what pump you used for your fix? I will give Dave T a call about his kits but the last diaphragm I got didn't quite fit so I wonder what differences there are with those pumps.

Many thanks.

[bezhawk]

Some high performance Fords used Carter "X" pumps, and the kits work great on R series Stude pumps, are totally correct in every wayn INCLUDING THE VALVES. NO Stude vendors carry the correct kits with valves that actually work. I can get you the right kit. P.M. me.

[Mike]

I agree with you about the rebuild kits generally available. My main criticism is the seal on the stem. It's especially important on R2's. I'm glad to hear the Ford "X" pump parts will work. I've been meaning to compare a kit I bought for one some time ago, to the Stude "R" pump parts. Is the top of the stem where it contacts the operating arm the same?
The "X" pump comes with a much heavier spring on the stem. I think it gives 9 lb. output pressure. I would anticipate slight flooding at idle, but in fact the Chrysler pump I've been using has a similar spring and has caused no problems. It might be a problem with high flow carb inlet valves.
By the way, if higher flow is desired, a valve body from a high performance Chevy pump has three valves and 1/4" NPT fittings in and out. Other than the rebuild kits, Ford "X" pump parts are hard to find and very expensive. I bought a few of the Chevy valve bodies on EBay. Both the Ford "X" and Hi Po Chevy have the large diameter diaphragm like the Stude "R", one size bigger than the Chrysler.
Mike M.

[StudeNorm]

I need to explain my situation without hijacking Ted's thread. The subject is the same.

My car came with the modified M6902 pump and it ran fine when I got it but started weeping fuel so I pulled it and found the diaphragm was developing very fine cracks. I did not know this was a Mopar style pump at the time so I bought a Stude R2 kit from SI and it didn't fit. While I was in South Bend last year I got a diaphragm from Dave T that looked good but when I got home and tried to install it there was just enough interference that it didn't work. I then managed to get an almost new diaphragm from a friend and it worked fine for about 200 miles then started pumping fuel into the blower pressure port at idle. When I pulled it apart I found this one had developed a hole in the diaphragm so now I am back to square one. I guess I can look for a good R2 core and use my kit to rebuild it but that may be wishful thinking...

Has anyone looked at the Edelbrock small block '60s Mopar units? They look like polished Carters and the price is right. Since the M6902 is for the same motor they may work. They will need the pressure port drilled and tapped and the recurved actuator arm but the spiffy polishing job matches the chrome bits on the R motors... Or I am thinking electric which may need a re-engineered approach.

Thanks for the offer Bezhawk but I gather you are talking the "right kit" for an R2 pump and I don't have that pump...

After having the car off the road for all of 2016 I really was looking forward to motoring this summer but now I am back to fixing one of the problems that kept it idle last year.

Whew. Seems a bit long winded but that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

[Hawklover]

Sounds like a good idea, when will you arrive to effectuate said removal(s)?

Removing the power steering pump, with lines left attached, and placing it up out of the way, REALLY gives you a clear path to the fuel pump!

[Hawklover]

Carter # 62706G11B is the Mopar pump that works on all R-1 cars, I always wanted an R2 but over the years blower repair would have been a problem as would pump replacement.........don't get me wrong I love blower Studes........but feel comforted owning an R1:-)

[StudeNorm]

Here is a follow up to my situation.

After looking at all the parts I had, good, bad and "close" I realized the solution was in front of me.

The diaphragm I got from Dave T didn't fit my pump by only a small margin but it did interfere internally when installed as is. Click, click, click if you know what I mean.

Here is my fix! I looked at the 2 failed diaphragms I had and decided to cut the centres out of them. I trimmed them both to the width of the pump mounting body. I then installed the good diaphragm and used the other two as gaskets to move the lower half of the pump down and away from the internal mechanism of the pump. This provided about 2mm clearance. I was concerned the assembly screws might not be long enough but they fit, barely. After checking it by doing a dry installation (no hoses) and cranking it a few times there was no clicking to be heard. I hooked up all gas lines, reinstalled my power steering pump and fired the engine.

All has been working as advertised for the past week.

I will still be looking for a rebuildable R2 pump but will try to source that locally.

Thanks all...

[bsrosell]

2 years later (wow, so many good posts, as usual!) I'm researching this same topic, getting ready to finally rebuild my R2 3508S Carter fuel pump that I bought along with a rebuild kit from a friend. Not sure where the rebuild kit is from, if this is one of the 'troublesome' ones, and the Ford "X" kit would be worth investing in for the time spent? (Have not even taking mine apart yet). Can any of you tell from these photos if this is a trustworthy rebuild kit or not? I've read several posts about oil leaks, "clicking" from tolerances off, etc... But realize some of that could be from rookies like me doing their first MODERN pump (vs 1928 Stude President pump!). Thanks!

[Mike]

That looks like it may be the Ford "X" pump kit, still available and inexpensive. http://mansfieldmustang.com/EngineFuelCarbp2.html . I like the stem and seal, bot I'm not crazy about the rivets for valve retainers. I still haven't tried one myself in an "R" pump.
Mike

2 years later (wow, so many good posts, as usual!) I'm researching this same topic, getting ready to finally rebuild my R2 3508S Carter fuel pump that I bought along with a rebuild kit from a friend. Not sure where the rebuild kit is from, if this is one of the 'troublesome' ones, and the Ford "X" kit would be worth investing in for the time spent? (Have not even taking mine apart yet). Can any of you tell from these photos if this is a trustworthy rebuild kit or not? I've read several posts about oil leaks, "clicking" from tolerances off, etc... But realize some of that could be from rookies like me doing their first MODERN pump (vs 1928 Stude President pump!). Thanks![ATTACH=CONFIG]80000[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]80001[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]80002[/ATTACH]