Exhaust: Exhaust flange replacement

[mjeansonne]

I've tried to find something already here on the forum, but nothing comes up.
I am having to replace the exhaust manifold to exhaust down pipe about every 100 - 200 miles! My mechanic tells me that the exhaust flange is warped and needs to be replaced. He says he can make a new one, but I'm curious as to whether I can find a new one and just replace both sides. This is all on a 1962 Hawk V-8. Anyone know where to obtain such an exhaust flange replacement?

[mbstude]

I've tried to find something already here on the forum, but nothing comes up.
I am having to replace the exhaust manifold to exhaust down pipe about every 100 - 200 miles! My mechanic tells me that the exhaust flange is warped and needs to be replaced. He says he can make a new one, but I'm curious as to whether I can find a new one and just replace both sides. This is all on a 1962 Hawk V-8. Anyone know where to obtain such an exhaust flange replacement?

I'm not sure I understand, what parts are you having to replace? The exhaust flange gasket?

The flange is made on to the factory style header pipe. New manifolds, new header pipes, and new gaskets are readily available.

There are also aftermarket flange gaskets that are a lot thicker than original and do a nice job of compensating for imperfections on the manifold and header pipe flange. If you want I'll dig up a name and part number.

[Hawkowner]

Is he replacing the pipe or just the gasket. Warped flange on the pipe would be replace with the pipe. A warped flange on on the manifold would have to be machined flat or the manifold replaced. The flange on the pipe would be steel and the manifold would be cast iron unless you have coustom exhaust headers.
Hawkowner

[bezhawk]

The flanges on many replacement pipes are either too soft, or too thin, and the bend when you tighten the nuts Also the slotted holes don't align the pipes and gaskets like the originals. It has been this way since NOS have been depleted. Even the best replacement pipes have the same short comings. I usually take an adjustable wrench, and heat the flange, and bend the ears slightly downwards so that it can remain flat when you tighten them against the gasket.

[345 DeSoto]

BEZHAWK - That's a great idea. When I get to install mine, I'll give it a try...

[Dan Timberlake]

http://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/59x64chm/59x64chp119x126/64chasp123s.jpg

[sweetolbob]

If you can easily bend the flange, why not just slide one of these up the pipe.

[JoeHall]

I have not experienced the bent flange problem, other than on really old pipes that had been through too many heat cycles and needed to be changed anyway. Perhaps that's due to using Don Simmons' stainless pipes for decades. But I do tend to use extra gaskets, to give a thicker sealing area.

[WCP]

With the SS pipes and their larger stud holes, I always slip a short piece of 3/8" brake tubing over each stud to positively centre the pipe flange to manifold flange. Also ensure that the 2 flanges meet fully with no gap before tightening the nuts. If you are only replacing the head pipe, you may have to slacken off the rearward hangers to ensure the flanges meet correctly before clamping.

[mjeansonne]

Sorry, apparently I didn't include all the information I should have. The gasket is not the problem. The flange on the exhaust pipe that attaches to the exhaust manifold is the problem. The only surviving exhaust shop in town does not have the flange and pipe, so the one on the existing exhaust pipe is bent and doesn't make a seal, thus it blows the gasket out in short order.

[StudeRich]

Simple, forget the "Flanges", just order New NOS Head Pipes right and Left, or the one that is the problem from a Studebaker Vendor at: http://Studebakervendors.com or NEW Reproduction Head Pipes from Parks Pipes or Silvertone Exhaust, both "Turning Wheels" advertisers.

[jackb]

agree with #11 Almost any Stude vendor I've ever contacted had 100's of NOS pipes for original fit to OEM manifolds..... definitely the way to go. There was a time all this stuff was in the back of the parts' store....

[DEEPNHOCK]

Questions:
RHS?
Do you have the OE heat riser valve in place?

[dpson]

I had a similar problem with a reproduction crossover pipe I bought from Packard Farm years ago. I couldn't even get it to bolt up to the manifold once it was connected to the pipe on the other side. After days of frustration trying to make it work I ended up bringing the car and pipes to a local (old time) muffler shop and they cut, bent and rewelded the pipe and it fit and functioned for years. Your local muffler shop should be able to do something similar to make it work. If they can't you might want to try a different shop (yes, they are getting few and far between now that most car manufactures have gone to stainless steel exhausts.). You also might want to find a shop that works on hot rods as there is usually a fair amount of custom fitting going on there and some of these guys have a great eye in finding solutions.

[karterfred88]

Same problem, removed head pipe, cracked weld at pipe to flange gave a tick-tick noise. After getting off, went to an old fashioned welding shop used to working on tractors. Heated the flange re-welded the pipe to flange all the way around, heated the flange nice and hot. Bent the ears down slightly and surfaced the area in the center flat. New gasket, tightened it up and fixed-at least for now. Worst case you can weld on new ones like these: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/p...FcZLDQodx7MEDg