Engine: V-8 Intake Manifold Clamps

[Stan.Gundry]

The Workshop Manual gives a torque value of 26–30 foot pounds for the intake manifold bolts on the Studebaker V-8. My experience has been that often when I try to torque the 4 bolts that go through the 4 inner spanner clamps, the clamps usually split before I reach even 26 foot pounds of torque. Has anyone else had the same experience? Is it because I am using old clamps that are weakened by metal fatigue? I suppose it could be that my torque wrench is not accurate, but I have a good quality Craftsman "made in the USA" torque wrench that I have cared for and not abused. I always zero it out when I am done, so that would not account for any inaccuracy.

If others have had the same problem, I would be curious as to what you have found to be the proper torque setting for the intake manifold bolts, that is, a torque value that will not split the clamps but will adequately seal the mating surfaces.

[Paul Keller]

Try an "Advanced Search" (top right corner - Above) as Intake Clamp.

A previous (couple years ago) entry noted a process of a reinforcing weld inside the clamp.

Paul TK

[TWChamp]

I use a torque wrench on head bolts, rods, and mains. All other engine parts, I just use common sense to tighten them.
I've never heard of splitting those clamps.

[JoeHall]

I use a torque wrench on head bolts, rods, and mains. All other engine parts, I just use common sense to tighten them.
I've never heard of splitting those clamps.

Same here for tightening, but I have split a couple of those clamps.

[jrlemke]

I made new clamps out of bar stock. Just hand grind them to the shape of the stock ones. I had 3 split ones on my Hawk when I bought it, so this was my first project. -Jim

[Colgate Studebaker]

I've had several on more than one engine split, and I found that welding them on the underside, and cleaning the welds up so they fit well solved the issue. Even new ones from a vendor have had issues cracking under torque. I also use the arm torquewrench method if I am uneasy with the torque chart requirements. Bill

[BobWaitz]

I've split them as well. Frustrating.

[Skybolt]

I have some titanium ones. Got them years ago. Just bar stock ground on the corners. Had them for 28 years.

Len

[JoeHall]

I have some titanium ones. Got them years ago. Just bar stock ground on the corners. Had them for 28 years.

Len

On occasion, I have substituted broken clamps with upper 'A' arm bushing washers. Sort of 56J style, except the 56J just uses large, thick flat washers. On 56Js, once in awhile those washers will bend, but when that happens, I just flip them over.

[64V-K7]

If you take the clamps and turn them 90 degrees, they can take a bit more torque..

[Skybolt]

On occasion, I have substituted broken clamps with upper 'A' arm bushing washers. Sort of 56J style, except the 56J just uses large, thick flat washers. On 56Js, once in awhile those washers will bend, but when that happens, I just flip them over.

Maybe I should have said flat bar but on closer inspection it looks more like they were milled from a larger piece because of the marking on the edges. If that was the case though I would see no need to grind the corners. Mostly I think they were made from scrap from the manufacturing of atomic absorption spectrometers, at Varian Techtron, at the facility. I bought them and didn't ask too many questions or go into the process of how or why but knew they would last.

Len

[Stan.Gundry]

Thanks for your responses everyone. It is somewhat comforting to know that I am not the only one who has experienced the split clamps when attempting to tighten them down to torque. Since I like to maintain the stock appearance, I am going to try reinforcing the underside by laying down a bead of arc weld on either side of the hole in the clamp. If that does not work, I will torque it by feel. I will let you know if reinforcing with a weld solves the problem.

Surely the people who assembled the Stude V-8s knew about this problem, and maybe even the engineers. It is strange that they did not either create a stronger clamp or change the recommended torque.

[Skybolt]

I guess after 50 plus years of being retorqued they have stood up quite well. I know I have had an intake manifold of many times in one year. So it may be that we are using these parts longer than the designers original intended them to be used or retorqued.

Just a thought.

If wanting to keep a stock look one could use some flat bar, with a hole drilled after fitment, that fits under the original and would be hard to see once welded in place. This would make it more like a solid.

Some of the stock ones in the photo I used in post #11 are warped from years of reuse. I might clean, reshape and then apply the flat bar and weld. Just for some spares.

Len

[wdills]

I bought a replacement set from a guy out west that machines them out of a block of stainless steel. Can't remember his name right now but PM me if you are interested and I will try to find it. They are not shaped exactly the same as the originals but they look nice and certainly can be torqued to spec without any splitting.

[WCP]

There were light weight and heavy weight clamps used by the factory. The difference is quite noticeable by feel. The lighter ones, I believe, were supplied on some '63-64 production. I've had several split. Sacco had the heavier ones and never split. I'm not sure what is currently supplied by SI. Definitely, if only the lighter ones are available, reduce the torque applied.