My 64 Commander.

[RyleeH]

Had some more learning experiences this weekend. So after charging the battery twice, a boost from my ranger finally got it started. But that was only after I removed the valve covers again to verify tdc. I found an awesome video regarding motorcycles that helped a lot to explain tdc on 4-stroke engines. Turned out I was 180° off the compression stroke, i originally set it when valves were overlapping open.
Turns out I didnt install my transmission inspection cover very well so the pressure plate made some bad noise once I finally got the timing right and started.


After I got it running I tested my new rad/fan combo which is also awesome by the way. Flexalite customer service is great. The new controller showed up and was an easy install. Loosened rad shroud holding bolts slid it up just enough to under controller cover and just five wire connections to mess with.

Wanted to go for a test drive after I begged a friend to come help put the hood back on. So I had to pull up front and have Ranger save the day again. I didnt get the cig lighter in car working so used the trucks and my crappy compressor to get up air pressure in my front driver tire.


Before the test drive I noticed a slight squeaking noise. Sounds like regrets of not doing clutch release bearing while I had easy access. But before calling it a day I reached under and generously sprayed white lithium grease in through the clutch fork hole since I dont have a cover. Started the car, moved the clutch a bunch, no noise. I'm still gonna order a new one and be ready when its needed, IF I got away with it this time.

Re-aligned my ford brake light switch right at the pedal so my lights dont stay on at all times. I know stock the switch is on the master, I'm getting there, bear with me.

Im super excited now and going to drive it to work tomorrow. But now that I'm running I can focus on all the small things. Like door panels, sill plates, window cranks, etc. Never ending list that I'm totally fine with.

[Jerry Forrester]

Ya I needed to install pulley with belt on. Wasn't easy but I managed. Once I get a double groove crank pulley and add a second belt I can imagine it will be much harder to put back in place.

Much easier if you remove the WP pulley.

[RyleeH]

Ya I needed to install pulley with belt on. Wasn't easy but I managed. Once I get a double groove crank pulley and add a second belt I can imagine it will be much harder to put back in place.

[Jerry Forrester]

No tensioner. Had to muscle it in place. Belt sits tight, I'm not worried about that. I can add one if I have issues but I'm confident this will be fine.

No problem. That's how we used to run our dirt track cars back in the seventies and eighties. But we used the Corvette single/deep groove pullies. Had to pull the WP pulley to change the belt

[RyleeH]

No tensioner. Had to muscle it in place. Belt sits tight, I'm not worried about that. I can add one if I have issues but I'm confident this will be fine.

[studegary]

Is there a tensioner for the WP/CS belt?

Good point. I do not see one unless it is obscured by the lower hose.

[Jerry Forrester]

Well made some more progress the last few days after 10-11hr work days. Sick today but I'll trick through tonight and see if I get it running.

I was having issues with belt alignment with Moroso P#63825 and after emailing them directly it dawned on me I don't need different pulleys but just to space their bracket forward 5/16" and I hit the front pulley of my water pump. Then I'll get a double groove swp crank pulley to get two belts between water pump and crank so make it look better. Using belts from Partsource #15305 and #15346. Also lesson learned to measure lengths needed with another v-groove belt for more accurate length, then getting that length plus next two sizes up. I first measured with wire and was short 3" each belt. Measured with belt I got alternator first try and third try for crank/water pump.

After I got the knob on my new Flex-a-lite rad fan combo for electronic thermostat control I realized I had a bad controller. I emailed them, sent pics of install and my invoice. As of yesterday i have a new controller on the way without me having to send anything back. Tech guy was pleasantly surprised when I told him I did not install P#51168 into what he thought would be a CJ Jeep.

Great customer service from both companies.

I'm fairly beginner mechanic in my own eyes so things are taking longer than I want but later tonight I plan to try timing the 350 and calling some friends to get my good back in place.

Here's my promised one pic per reply.

Is there a tensioner for the WP/CS belt?

[RyleeH]

Well made some more progress the last few days after 10-11hr work days. Sick today but I'll trick through tonight and see if I get it running.

I was having issues with belt alignment with Moroso P#63825 and after emailing them directly it dawned on me I don't need different pulleys but just to space their bracket forward 5/16" and I hit the front pulley of my water pump. Then I'll get a double groove swp crank pulley to get two belts between water pump and crank so make it look better. Using belts from Partsource #15305 and #15346. Also lesson learned to measure lengths needed with another v-groove belt for more accurate length, then getting that length plus next two sizes up. I first measured with wire and was short 3" each belt. Measured with belt I got alternator first try and third try for crank/water pump.

After I got the knob on my new Flex-a-lite rad fan combo for electronic thermostat control I realized I had a bad controller. I emailed them, sent pics of install and my invoice. As of yesterday i have a new controller on the way without me having to send anything back. Tech guy was pleasantly surprised when I told him I did not install P#51168 into what he thought would be a CJ Jeep.

Great customer service from both companies.

I'm fairly beginner mechanic in my own eyes so things are taking longer than I want but later tonight I plan to try timing the 350 and calling some friends to get my good back in place.

Here's my promised one pic per reply.

[RyleeH]

Studerich, haha I had a similar reaction when I got the engine out and had a good look. It WAS a camaro mount on a steel plate and matching on block but driver side block WAS I still have no clue what. NOW I have stude mounts on frame and 65 chevelle mounts attached to block. It's been taken care of, I would not put it back together how it was. Just like most of how the car WAS before I started on it.

Jerry, good to know they can be found in larger diameter. But I made a post on Facebook a while ago asking for cars exactly like mine with blockhuggers. I even received pictures from a couple people showing Sanderson blockhugger headers, think cc3 od something like that for part number. I'll have to look back to see but that's something for winter to take care of.

This is where I am now, just grabbed water pump pulley and shims today. That and a bit of wiring and I might start it up tonight.

Before anyone comments about fuel line, left it long until pulleys and belt done then trim it down.

[Jerry Forrester]

I see that now he didnt mean bolt to manifold, guess I was a bit confused but I don't like wiring is the other reason I want to stay passenger side.

I have car manifolds from the parts car I had but pipes need to be changed regardless because of the angle on driver side and kinks on both sides. Did these straight down manifolds ever come on a 350? It has smaller diameter than the bent manifold. I thought that style of blockhugger would let the engine breathe better than these little manifolds.

You can get the rams horn manifolds with a 2 1/2" outlet. But I don't know if you have room for that due to the pitman arm.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Corvette-Style-2-1-2-Inch-Ram-Horn-Exhaust-Manifolds-Pair,58966.html

[StudeRich]

I don't know WHAT that is you have for a Right Side Engine Mount BRACKET, but it should look like the Left side!

[RyleeH]

I see that now he didnt mean bolt to manifold, guess I was a bit confused but I don't like wiring is the other reason I want to stay passenger side.

I have car manifolds from the parts car I had but pipes need to be changed regardless because of the angle on driver side and kinks on both sides. Did these straight down manifolds ever come on a 350? It has smaller diameter than the bent manifold. I thought that style of blockhugger would let the engine breathe better than these little manifolds.

[Jerry Forrester]

I gave the style that mounted to my manifold a thought for a little bit but I have issue with the current driver manifold and exhaust. It looks like when the 350 was swapped in to what was not originally chevy, the wrong driver manifold was used. You can see in this pic that it is bent backwards instead of going straight down like the passenger side. This causes my steering arm to hit it at full right turn.

So I have the plan to eventually buy headers. From what I hear cc3 Sanderson headers should fit my car, then re-do the exhaust.

Go back and read post #9. He's talking about an alternator bracket that bolts to the front of the head, It doesn't have anything to do with the exhaust manifold.

BTW, that driver's side swept back manifold is a truck manifold. You need a car manifold, they go straight down.

[RyleeH]

I gave the style that mounted to my manifold a thought for a little bit but I have issue with the current driver manifold and exhaust. It looks like when the 350 was swapped in to what was not originally chevy, the wrong driver manifold was used. You can see in this pic that it is bent backwards instead of going straight down like the passenger side. This causes my steering arm to hit it at full right turn.

So I have the plan to eventually buy headers. From what I hear cc3 Sanderson headers should fit my car, then re-do the exhaust.

[junior]

if you want to move the alt. to the driver side of the engine, find a complete set-up off a 70-72 chev 1/2 with sbc engine and no power steering or brakes. single groove pulley top and bottom, cast iron lower alt. bracket, extra-thick top alt. bracket... both brackets bolt to a factory head (which you have) inexpensive, clean, simple and robust system that works with factory rams horn manifolds. you're from sask, so should be lots of old c-10's and gmc 1500's in your province for parts picking. cheers, junior