I recently installed this radiator (JP 3009) with an A/T coller installed in the lower tank in a '59 Lark VIII wagon. I'm verry happy with the quality of this radiator and their service. I have a few comments if I did this again. I spoke to the manufacturer of this radiator,Brice Thomas Radiator (256-546-4613), and they stated it would not be any problem to incorperate the changes I want as long as they know before building the radiatior.
1. The aluminum mounting flange should run parallel to the radiator core and not be angled. Then I would have not needed to shim the upper mounting holes from the core support.
2. The mounting flange should be raised up 0.75" from the bottem of the existing flange and extend 2.5" higher as opposed to the existing bracket. I trimmed 0.75" of the mounting flange off the bottem of the flange. I would also not have any mounting holes pre-drilled in the mounting flange. This way I could use the existing mounting holes in the core support and would not have to drill and tap as I did. However this would require to mark and drill your own mounting holes in the mounting flange on the radiator.
3. I would not have the 1/4" bung installed for the radiator drain. I removed the drain and installed a pipe plug since the drain was very close to interfering with the core support and it is much faster to pull the lower hose to drain.
4. The lower tank outlet on this radiator is 1-3/4" and the stock was 1-1/2". I used a Gates 20957 hose (1-3/4" with a 90 degree bend) and trimmed to length and installed the spring from my old hose. It would be no porblem to have this outlet 1-1/2" so the stock hose could be used.
5. Move the upper tank inlet 1" to the outside. This would give more fan clearance. My fan had been bent so I used a 6 cylinder fan with a smaller diameter so this was not an issue. Without the smaller fan I probably would have also needed to remove the 1" fan spacer to the water pump.
1. The aluminum mounting flange should run parallel to the radiator core and not be angled. Then I would have not needed to shim the upper mounting holes from the core support.
2. The mounting flange should be raised up 0.75" from the bottem of the existing flange and extend 2.5" higher as opposed to the existing bracket. I trimmed 0.75" of the mounting flange off the bottem of the flange. I would also not have any mounting holes pre-drilled in the mounting flange. This way I could use the existing mounting holes in the core support and would not have to drill and tap as I did. However this would require to mark and drill your own mounting holes in the mounting flange on the radiator.
3. I would not have the 1/4" bung installed for the radiator drain. I removed the drain and installed a pipe plug since the drain was very close to interfering with the core support and it is much faster to pull the lower hose to drain.
4. The lower tank outlet on this radiator is 1-3/4" and the stock was 1-1/2". I used a Gates 20957 hose (1-3/4" with a 90 degree bend) and trimmed to length and installed the spring from my old hose. It would be no porblem to have this outlet 1-1/2" so the stock hose could be used.
5. Move the upper tank inlet 1" to the outside. This would give more fan clearance. My fan had been bent so I used a 6 cylinder fan with a smaller diameter so this was not an issue. Without the smaller fan I probably would have also needed to remove the 1" fan spacer to the water pump.
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