1957 Golden Hawk front brakes - Disc or remain with stock

[hwkmn]

Having taken off the rims/tires to upgrade the rim paint but also to replace tires, certainly it might be cheaper to just go with aftermarket rims and blackwall tires. I had a 57 Silverhawk years ago that had them. A modified Coupe Express that had them but thinking I want to stay with what was on the car to begin with despite it not being show quality.

Ok...took the passenger side front rim off Tuesday and will follow suit on the drivers side. I found the wheel cylinder all mucked up and the bleeder screw busted off.

Someone on FB selling 1949 parts mentioned Turner Brakes and believe the link he sent me led to the SDC and a nice article covering the modification from pads to disc.

Questioning just how many have gone this route, if they've done it themselves and/or would recommend for the cost if redoing the brakes. I am told that it requires changing out the master cylinder as well.

Thoughts will be appreciated and yes, this topic may have been over covered in the past but...I have trouble navigating to where or by whom or how often.

Thanks!

[Dwight FitzSimons]

Yes, many of us have converted to Turner disc front brakes. I haven't heard of anyone who hasn't been pleased afterward. BTW, there is another provider of disc brake kits: Hot Rods and Brakes. The mounting bracket is lighter on the HR&B kit, but most seem to go with the Turner kits.

I did mine myself, with the help of a local Studebaker friend. The reason it might help to have a second person comes when putting the heated spacer ring on the spindle. In retrospect, I could have done that myself too. That spacer ring must be heated red hot and put on the spindle quickly. I used a MAPP gas torch to heat the ring, but propane may be hot enough (not sure about this).

The check valve must be removed from the master cylinder when installing disc brakes. I bought a new MC on ebay (less than $50 ppd) and removed the check valve myself.

With the modern disc brakes you will have many choices for pads. Some have spoken well of Green Stuff pads.

Some report that they do not need a booster after installing the discs. I haven't heard of anyone reporting that it was necessary to add a booster afterwards.

--Dwight

[cdn56J]

I installed Turner brakes on my '56 Golden Hawk, very satisfied with this system. Do not need a booster. I purchased the calipers and MC from auto parts supplier. You will have to check if your wheels will clear the calipers, most old rims will not clear.

[jpepper]

Studebaker drum brakes were some of the best in the industry in their day. They were gross overkill for a car of that weight. Working properly they work fine. A turner kit works fine as well. The choice is yours weather you want to stay original or not. When I was a teenager (60's) I drove my Studebakers hard. I never had trouble stopping. My GM and Chrysler products (muscle cars) did not have as good of brakes as my Studebakers. Either way, plan on a complete brake rebuild including hoses for trouble free operation.

[Son O Lark]

Propane is hot enough to heat the bearing seal ring. I simply hung it on the end of a large screwdriver and slid it on after getting it red hot. Tapped on it to fully seat it. I really like my front disc brakes. Someday I will do the rears when the stock ones wear out. I will leave replacement drums to the restorers out there.

[creegster]

Ive installed the Turner brakes on 2 1959 Larks:
First one was done by a shop, and it was great, made a huge difference. Inspired by the thought of never again rolling downhill through a red light (that was not fun).
Second time, I did it myself and while it took a while for someone at my skill level to install, they work great as well.

You can contact Turner for any help that is needed. They are very helpful and very responsive.

[hwkmn]

Thanks to all for responding at this point.

It would have been the next obvious question that yes, if doing a rebuild...that is both wheel cylinders, having the drums turned (if still have meat left to them), replacing the springs, clips and shoes what the price difference would be at that point. Not to mention possible replacement of the front hoses.

Search today (Thursday) has been for a replacement drum for the rear that is a different thought process.

So as it is, I haven't contacted Turner as yet. In speaking to a support person from Raybestos, he mentioned the name of "ScareBird" as a 3rd choice for brake conversion. Either way I can't go anywhere now for all drums are off the car.

But...if going with Turner or other disc brakes, what, then, happens to the brake drums. Do you replace the front and rear and if so do the original hubcaps still work or do you have to go to aftermarket rims?

Inch by Inch I'll get there.

[StudeRich]

/Cut/But...if going with Turner or other disc brakes, what, then, happens to the brake drums. Do you replace the front and rear and if so do the original hubcaps still work or do you have to go to aftermarket rims?
Inch by Inch I'll get there.

You are starting to confuse yourself and US, with TOO Many Posts!
The answer to this is in one of your Posts, noted below.

Obviously, you can't Run the Front Drums AND the Disc Rotors!

https://forum.studebakerdriversclub....l-rims-be-used

You know, you CAN Edit them to add to them.