New (to me) '55 Studebaker Wagon

[Spamcan]

A 16G8 is a Commander

Any help how to identify which v8 it is, 224 or 259ci? I’ve looked at the block, in the valley and there’s only 1 # I can find which doesn’t seem to correspond to what I’d be looking for:
1 1554641

What i was looking for:
V-312,701 (224)
V-331,101 (259)

[Spamcan]

Nevermind, found this under a clump of paint on top of the block:
P94442

but still a conundrum which v8 it is. I found an obscure post on another forum that the “P” may indicate it’s a 259ci.

[Dwight FitzSimons]

Nevermind, found this under a clump of paint on top of the block:
P94442

but still a conundrum which v8 it is. I found an obscure post on another forum that the “P” may indicate it’s a 259ci.

For 1955 ONLY the P indicates it is a 259. For 1956-1964 259s were V, and 289s were P.

The date (day, month, & year) the block was cast can be determined by the casting date code. That is at the far rear on the block, topside. Look behind the dist. and you will see something like "12 13 R" or "R 12 13". I can decode that if you find it.

Also, it appears you have a Lionel Stone reproduction aluminum intake manifold.
--Dwight

[Spamcan]

For 1955 ONLY the P indicates it is a 259. For 1956-1964 259s were V, and 289s were P.

The date (day, month, & year) the block was cast can be determined by the casting date code. That is at the far rear on the block, topside. Look behind the dist. and you will see something like "12 13 R" or "R 12 13". I can decode that if you find it.

Also, it appears you have a Lionel Stone reproduction aluminum intake manifold.
--Dwight

Thanks Dwight! I wondered about the manifold, it seemed way too new. Also seems there was something mounted in between the 2 #’s on the front of the block, where there’s a flat plate now. On various pics I see something mounted vertically and a tube running by it, now gone on mine. Guessing that was for the original carb.

Again, I can’t emphasize how helpful and supportive you all are here. Thank you!!

[Spamcan]

RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

RadioRoy, I tried to PM you, but it failed stating I could not.
I take it you may be able to help me with a radio replacement for my '55 Conestoga? It already has a 12v conversion.
Spamcan

[Spamcan]

In my collection I happen to have a 1955 Commander, Conestoga. I want to welcome you and invite you to visit one, or all three Puget Sound chapters of the SDC (Tacoma, Seattle, North Puget Sound). I hope that you will find one of the chapters to your liking. It's not necessary to have the car to check out the meetings. Just stop in and introduce yourself.

Bill

Bill, I'm signed up for the picnic at Griots Garage on May 29th.

[RadioRoy]

RadioRoy, I tried to PM you, but it failed stating I could not.
I take it you may be able to help me with a radio replacement for my '55 Conestoga? It already has a 12v conversion.
Spamcan

Spamcan

https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/general-studebaker-specific-discussion/1938840-radio-conversion-looking-for-radioroy

[Spamcan]

Update on the post running fumes: I’m thinking it’s carb related for sure. If it idles for too long it starts to flood, the smell is like it’s running rich. Plus an occasional backfire in the carb, black soot in it. I’ll definitely get the carb looked at. The knob I’m pointing at in one pic is the choke, hard to use and seems the choke on the carb itself is somewhat sticky. May just be something about this carb.

There is a “something” under the dash which seems like a vacuum hose and as the car runs it seems like I hear a sucking from it, almost in time with one of the cylinders. Pics below, I followed the tube and it goes down in the engine compartment back along the frame towards the rear.

Maybe there’s some fuel treatment I should also try?

As for the shifting issue, I do not have a tach. And I couldn't get on a road today that was faster than 25mph to try to feel for all shift points. Next ride.

For your enjoyment I found the other day that on the aftermarket wheels, the tires are 15 years old and cracking. Then I looked at the spare, I think it’s the original wheel (steel, riveted), and the tire was manufactured in 1975 and as you could guess in horrible shape!! All 5 tires are on order. And there was no jack nor lug wrench, got those too. Oh dad…

[Spamcan]

Spamcan - I'm very sorry to hear about your dad's passing. I remember the green wagon from many, many Vista Rod Runs, and as we both lived in the same area he would often stop by my house just to say "hi" and chat Studes (my Lark is always in the driveway, so it's kind of an open invitation!). I test drove the Hawk for him before he bought it!

I'll miss seeing Charlie and the Connie here in North County, but am glad it's gone home with you.

Hello Showbizkid. I was wondering if you may be able to help myself and mom with something. Dad bought a '66 Lark all in parts, which maybe you and he discussed at some time. I'm trying to sell it since I cannot even begin to do a full rebuild of it, and mom surely can't. I'm having a bugger of a time finding the engine. I failed to find it when I was last down there and took all the pics on this post https://forum.studebakerdriversclub....udebaker-truck
My sister (a non-car person) is trying to help, but she's not successful yet either. Any chance you recall what he may have told you about it? Or maybe a chance you could swing by the house in O'Side and dig thru things and determine what's where since you're familiar with Larks? I sent you a PM with my contact info on it.

[showbizkid]

Hey man - I’ll send you a PM 😊

[StudeRich]

I would check the Rubber 2 Inch Hose from the Metal Fuel Filler Pipe to the nipple (Tube) on the Tank, they get cracked and will leak quite a bit of vapor, more in warmer Air Temps and more when full or near full.

Also, a very small crack and leak in the Fuel Flex Hose from the Tank Line to the Fuel Pump sometimes will not leave a puddle, but emit a Lot of Vapor!

Dangerous, if you have a Garage located Gas Water Heater or Furnace.

[Spamcan]

I would check the Rubber 2 Inch Hose from the Metal Fuel Filler Pipe to the nipple (Tube) on the Tank, they get cracked and will leak quite a bit of vapor, more in warmer Air Temps and more when full or near full.

Also, a very small crack and leak in the Fuel Flex Hose from the Tank Line to the Fuel Pump sometimes will not leave a puddle, but emit a Lot of Vapor!

Dangerous, if you have a Garage located Gas Water Heater or Furnace.

I'll definitely check those out, thanks! Luckily were not gas anything, electric water heater. And post a drive, the fumes are really only lasting about 5-10 hours. And the last one I left the garage open and carb filter off, and it dissipated within a couple hours.

[studeclunker]

I love your car! Thanks for sharing all the pics too! Your Dad had great taste!

[Spamcan]

I love your car! Thanks for sharing all the pics too! Your Dad had great taste!

Thank you Ron / studeclunker

[Spamcan]

Well, took the Conney for a ride today. Put in some Seafoam fuel treatment with ethanol-free unleaded and headed out. Found a few more things out.
1. It definitely doesn’t shift past 2 gears. Am I right this should be 3-speed?
2. The fuel & Seafoam seemed to have helped immensely for running. As I drove along the backfires reduced and idle and acceleration seemed better.
3. My right rear wheel is either dragging the brake or a bearing is going. When I got home smoke was coming out of the wheel well and it was quite hot, even the wheel. I couldn’t quite place the smell (burning brakes or grease), so a conundrum. There was no grinding or rubbing sounds when rolling.

Alas I’ll be pulling it apart. I’ll likely just replace all of the brake components and repack the bearings. I’ll be researching what brake parts I need, pretty sure it’s factory back there.

[pinehurstbob]

To answer #1, it is likely a flightomatic transmission. These transmissions are 3 speed but start in 2nd gear if you have it in drive and hence you only feel 1 shift. Try starting in low and take it up to 20 mph or so, then shift to drive and go through 2nd gear and then into high. There is your 3 speed, you just have to know where to find first.
Bob