Sourcing Non-split Rims for '63 Transtar

[Sgarman]

I'm looking for non split rims for my 1963 transtar 1 ton dually.. help or suggestions..?.

[StudeRich]

You will be one of the long list of us trying to find wheels that have enough clearance between the Duals to allow Radial Tires without scrubbing the sidewalls!

THIS is every bit as important (I believe MORE important) than finding One Piece Wheels.
Finding 16 Inch 6 Lug Wheels from a 70-'72 Dodge 1 Ton Motorhome is getting as hard to find as a Studebaker Truck Wheel!

Here's my 7E13, '62 Transtar Deluxe 10,000 GVW Dually with stock split wheels, tubed, Bias Ply Original type 7.50X16 Tires.
These Wheels are NOT the Famous "Widowmaker" Split Rim Wheels of Old! Les Schwab Tire has installed Tires with no problem.

Still, would I love to have Radial compatible One Piece Wheels, you bet!
Here is a set of Dodge or maybe Ford one piece, note only 3 lightening Holes:

[Sgarman]

Thanks for the info.. had my 63 transtar mobil until tire issue.. but I'll figure it out

[StudeRich]

Nice, it looks like a Standard Cab 8E13, and about the only clue that it is a '63 or '64, that is different than mine is the Amber Parking and Turn Indicator Light Lenses and different Housings.

Yours was not ordered with Class "A" fender top Turn Signals, is that because it has the Rare 9 Ft. Pickup Box?
Most Flatbeds and Box Vans would have the Class "A" Type Front and Rear required in most States possibly dependent on Width.

[Sgarman]

Came with no bed.. my grandfather purchased it new.. and added a wooden bed.. sorry i don't have a better pic..

[Lynn]

I don't see a problem running split rims, unless you just can't find anyone to install them.

I bought six used tires from a 2008 Chevy one ton dually that had been wrecked. 225 75 17. I think I paid $150 for all six. I run them on my original split rims and they look great. Sidewalls of the rears to not touch, and they ride 10x better than the old bias ply tires that were on the truck when I got it (a 49 2R16A). To be fair, the tires that I took off were installed in the 50s. I had to cut two of them off with a saber saw, and then chisel the bead off the rim. I installed them with new tubes designed to run with radials. I really don't know that you have to upgrade tubes, but why take a chance.

I did this about 7 or 8 years ago, and my Michelen tires are starting to weather check just a bit. But, I never drive on the highway. When it is time to replace them I am hoping there is another wrecked Chevy in town. I would hate to bite the bullet and shell out $263 per tire for them (from Tire Rack). But I will, if there are no used ones available.

[Sgarman]

thanks again for the info..

[PackardV8]

Your truck, your money, your decision, but a bit of discussion is in order.

First, if it's a problem with your local corner tire store not having a clue, take them to a farm or industrial store. They work with two-piece wheels every day.

The Studebaker two-piece wheels, not split-ring, have served some of us faithfully for sixty-five years and to my eye are distinctive, but the wish/discussion to get rid of them never goes away. It's been covered here ten times and at least ten times over on the truck forum.

What some do not take into account until too late is how it will drastically alter the appearance of the truck. Those wheels are an integral styling element. If that doesn't matter to one, go for it.

The two-piece wheels are not a drop-center design . The removable one-piece solid ring allows the tire to be slid directly onto the wheel. This allows the rim to be thinner and the center larger diameter. If one were to try to use the center section welded into a 16" drop-center rim, it would require cutting down the outer edge to where most of the scallop detail is lost.

To keep the center the same size and appearance would require going to a 17" to 19" rim, depending on which was chosen.

Once again, Your truck, Your money, Your decision.

jack vines, whose E12 will always have those wheels.

Larry Percy's E13 which his father bought new.
R.I.P. good buddy

[Sgarman]

Great advices.. years ago I did find a tire shop to install radials (265-75-16) the plys where 7.50-16.. just finding resistance due to the "widow maker" rims... I'll start looking a little harder.. I like the original rims.. thanks!

[StudeRich]

Great advices.. years ago I did find a tire shop to install radials (265-75-16) the plys where 7.50-16.. just finding resistance due to the "widow maker" rims... I'll start looking a little harder.. I like the original rims.. thanks! /Cut/

That's the THING Steven, as I said in Post #2, these are NOT "Widowmakers" at all !
They are the later version Split Rim, not the 40's Type.
They are WAY misunderstood, and you need to convince Installers of that.

Hi Jack, I thought your E12 had the Factory CAST iron Wheels, being a 3/4 Ton, those look EVEN Cooler than my Steel ones, but they both say: Big Mean "REAL Truck", coming though, get out of the way!

[Lynn]

Agree 100% with Jack. I love the look of the original rims on my truck.

[8E45E]

Agree 100% with Jack. I love the look of the original rims on my truck.

As do I prefer the original rims:


Craig

[Sgarman]

Looked at some videos on changing lock rims.. the lock ring has a slit (cut).. I don't see that on my rims... (earlier pic post)
is this a issue or I'm not seeing it?

[Sgarman]

Thank you all for the quick response and advice... going to stay original.. she'll be back on the road soon..

[PackardV8]

All the scalloped 3/4-ton and 1-ton two-piece wheels I've ever seen were steel, not cast iron. (I've seen a single one-ton pickup with Dayton cast iron centers and detachable rims, but that's another story.)

From experience, the 265/75-16 are really too wide and too low aspect ratio for the old wheels. FWIW, the best tire and size for those wheels are the Michelin 215/85-16" or at the very largest, 235/85-16"

jack vines