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  • Repro serial plate

    is it possible and legal to obtain a reproduced serial plate for the door post ? mine has two many rivets after being removed and reinstalled
    will use same serial number of course
    Joe


    Joe Parsons

  • #2
    About a year ago I thought someone in Australia was making repro plates.

    Comment


    • #3
      I have worked around this with a sheet of stainless or even aluminum cut to size, the correct decal and having the numbers deeply engraved (rather than stamped).
      Last edited by studegary; 12-19-2017, 04:21 PM.
      Gary L.
      Wappinger, NY

      SDC member since 1968
      Studebaker enthusiast much longer

      Comment


      • #4
        As TWchamp said someone from down under was building them and they looked just like factory with your number already on it. Legal maybe -maybe not if you asked some clown at your DMV But glue it on with some 3-m metal adhesive and don't tell anyone and I bet you will be fine. Just don't use pop rivets or screws because no manufacture ever used those so that's a dead give away something is wrong. If you clean both surfaces good and use just enough glue to hold it but not squirt out all over the place and just use two screws to hold it until dry no one will know and you will go though hell getting it back off with out heat.

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        • #5
          I got one of the plates with the Studebaker fancy script and stamped the number I found on the frame on it. Then I riveted it onto the firewall in the location that looked right. This is to make it more convenient. When the policeman came to look at it he did not bat an eye.
          Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by swvalcon View Post
            As TWchamp said someone from down under was building them and they looked just like factory with your number already on it. Legal maybe -maybe not if you asked some clown at your DMV But glue it on with some 3-m metal adhesive and don't tell anyone and I bet you will be fine. Just don't use pop rivets or screws because no manufacture ever used those so that's a dead give away something is wrong. If you clean both surfaces good and use just enough glue to hold it but not squirt out all over the place and just use two screws to hold it until dry no one will know and you will go though hell getting it back off with out heat.
            I have used thin double stick tape to mount it. It is not as thick as using glue and you do not have to hold it for a drying period. I have used modern double stick trim tape on the exterior and interior of vehicles and have never had anything come loose.
            Gary L.
            Wappinger, NY

            SDC member since 1968
            Studebaker enthusiast much longer

            Comment


            • #7
              There should not be or have been ANY "Rivets" or screws holding your Plate, just 2 or more Electric WELDS.

              I would check the Frame Number and made sure it matches First, if you do not know this Car's History from Birth.

              Click image for larger version

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              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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              • #8
                Chris (Stude Dude) used to carry both the water slide decals and the blank stainless plates. You might want to contact him...

                http://www.studeparts.com.au/
                Dick Steinkamp
                Bellingham, WA

                Comment


                • #9
                  If it were me and I did get a reproduction plate, I would make sure to keep the original damaged one with the car papers just in case.

                  Jeff in ND

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I've got three gt hawk bodys and they each have a screw hole on each side of the vin tag. I'am thinking these where used at the factory to hold the plate where it needed to be so it could be welded on then removed. If a very thin coat of metal adhesive is used and it would take very little to hold the tag in place and then a screw installed on each side to hold it tight until dry and then the screws removed it should look just as it did when new. If fact I removed the tag off my 64 when the body was painted and the spot welds are still showing though and when it is glued back in place should look just like it did when new. The only way anyone will be able to tell it is held on with adhesive is if they try to remove it again.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The two holes in the Door post and the notches on the Serial Number Plate were designed by Engineering to use for the purpose you mention to TEMPORARILY Hold the Plate, but the Guys whose job it was to install same had a "Better idea" as you can see from my Photo, they must have slapped them on the Post anywhere close to the two alignment holes and taped them on so the welder behind him could "Hit" it.

                      There are even Dimples in the corners for the Welds, also rarely ever used.

                      Believe it or not, that one on a '58 Silver Hawk is one of the BEST jobs I have seen.

                      Like Wham, Bam got'er Done! Where's my Paycheck?
                      Last edited by StudeRich; 12-19-2017, 04:44 PM.
                      StudeRich
                      Second Generation Stude Driver,
                      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by swvalcon View Post
                        I've got three gt hawk bodys and they each have a screw hole on each side of the vin tag. I'am thinking these where used at the factory to hold the plate where it needed to be so it could be welded on then removed. If a very thin coat of metal adhesive is used and it would take very little to hold the tag in place and then a screw installed on each side to hold it tight until dry and then the screws removed it should look just as it did when new. If fact I removed the tag off my 64 when the body was painted and the spot welds are still showing though and when it is glued back in place should look just like it did when new. The only way anyone will be able to tell it is held on with adhesive is if they try to remove it again.
                        I believe that those holes were for alignment of the plate (not a "screw hole"). I think that if you look closely, you will see that nothing was in those holes, screws or otherwise. If you use screws in these holes, even temporarily, then they won't look correct/original. That is one of the reasons that I prefer thin two side trim tape.

                        EDIT: Rich was quicker "on the draw" than I was.
                        Last edited by studegary; 12-19-2017, 04:45 PM.
                        Gary L.
                        Wappinger, NY

                        SDC member since 1968
                        Studebaker enthusiast much longer

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Just don't use pop rivets or screws because no manufacture ever used those so that's a dead give away something is wrong QUOTE]

                          Sorry, but this statement is simply not accurate. The Auburn Automobile Company (I've owned a couple of Cords) used screws to attach serial number plates and I own a '32 Chevrolet that used nails (!) to attach serial numbers to either the wood of the seat riser or the wooden floor boards

                          Tom

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                          • #14
                            Yep that is correct Tom, by 1965 or 1966 even Studebaker of Canada had started using those "Special" Rivets that others used that have a very peculiar Special Head not available anywhere. Law enforcement and Motor Vehicle Dept's know what to look for, they also have at their disposal the LOCATION of the Vin Plate and "Secret" VIN Numbers.

                            The Post #5 situation with the Plate on the Firewall, would have been caught in a heartbeat by a Knowledgeable Officer who bothered to LOOK for the info.
                            StudeRich
                            Second Generation Stude Driver,
                            Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Studebaker ID Serial Number Plate Attachment

                              Screw-on serial number plates were used for Studebaker produced military trucks --

                              Examples below are from 1953 and 1962 production M35 military trucks --
                              Attached Files
                              Bill Jackameit
                              1964 Challenger Wagonaire
                              1964 Daytona Sedan
                              Total of 10 Studebakers owned since 1961
                              Bill Jackameit's Studebaker Page online since October 1995
                              https://billstudepage.homestead.com/files/studpg.htm

                              sigpic

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