Engine: Can I remove a 289 crankshaft without removing the transmission

[Galactica5]

I have a 57 289 connected to a flight-o-matic.
This engine was newly overhauled with new US made bearings.
It has a rod in the front of the engine that knocks when the engine warms up.
Already cleaned and replaced the oil pressure regulator.
I may need to get new rod bearings and grind the crank that is .020 under to .030 under unless there is another cause.

My question is: can I remove the crankshaft without removing the transmission from the engine?
I would think so, but I haven't dug into that yet.
Can the torque converter plate bolts can be removed then slide the converter back?
I don't want to pull the engine for this.

[gordr]

I think it might be possible, but I have never tried it. Sounds to me like doing it the hard way. Just pull the engine, and get it on a stand. Then you can see everything with a good light, from a comfortable working position.

[(S)]

The key would be the flex plate bolts to the torque converter. doing this under the car will be a major pain is the rear compared to just pulling the engine trans and doing it 'topside' . NO, you cant do this.

[Dwain G.]

If it IS a rod-knock, that conn rod is likely stretched. Replace or have it resized.

[TWChamp]

I agree to pull the engine, and have the rod checked for straightness. Need to find out why that one is bad right after an overhaul.

About 1979 I was working at a Dodge dealership and had to fix a new Dodge V8 van with a ticking rod. It turned out to be the factory had the notch in the wrong location on the rod cap. I filed the notch in the right place and installed a new bearing, and that corrected the problem. I don't see how that got by the guy assembling that engine.

[jclary]

I'm not sure we have enough questions answered in order to proceed to drastic measures? Did you do the rebuild yourself? You mentioned the "oil pressure regulator." Do you mean the oil pressure relief valve? Most of us clean them, or replace them as part of the rebuild. They usually don't get much attention beyond that unless there's an oil pressure issue. Since the rebuild, how's your oil pressure? Is it acceptable? Does the needle dance inexplicably? Have you isolated which rod bearing you suspect is knocking? Have you used a mechanic's stethoscope to narrow the area of the knock?

Are you sure the knock is from a rod, and not a faulty, or sloppy aftermarket fuel pump actuator arm? If only one rod journal is sloppy enough to knock, I would be tempted to drop the oil pan to expose the crank shaft and inspect/check for a loose end-cap. I'm thinking that if it is loose enough to knock, there should be enough clearance to notice by manipulating the offending rod by hand. How much was the engine run since the rebuild? Was the knock noticed on initial run, or did it occur over a period of time? To me, some questions to answer before assuming the worst. Finally, before I would contort myself into an awkward knot, if the crankshaft requires further work, I would pull the engine, place it on a proper stand, and work in comfort. Best of luck in solving the problem.

[Jeffry Cassel]

You really can't do it; it is not practical or wise. As noted you will want to replace the involved rod and put in a crank kit. Always, always, always Plastigage every bearing. you don't know what moron has had their hands on that crank.

[Bud]

Trying to remove the crankshaft while the engine is still in the car while possible would be tougher and would probably take more time than removing the engine and putting it on a stand. You also are taking a real risk of getting dirt in the engine if you try to to the repairs from the underside of the car. I also agree that if there is a rod knock, then the rod in question needs to be checked for straightness, out of round and the correct big end size which means one cylinder head also has to be removed. If the oil pressure is good, also suspect a noisy aftermarket fuel pump arm. Bud

[t walgamuth]

Trying to take the crank out without removing the transmission is about equal to getting your socks to come out your sleeve without taking your shoes or pants off. it might be possible but a lot more work than just taking off your shoes first.

[JoeHall]

You'd have to slide the transmission back an inch or so, and would have to remove one piston out the top end, then the crank would come out. The time required to do that, plus the difficulty in maintaining cleanliness, plus working from a worm position on a creeper, versus standing or sitting at an engine stand make it a real bad idea. Much as it pains you, the logical procedure is to pull the motor.

As for number 1/2 rods knocking after a rebuild, that happened to me about 20 years ago. I should say I did it to myself, because I did not spin the oil pump to circulate oil before initial start up. I figured the assembly pre-lube would hold till oil reached all moving parts, and it did, all except #1/2 rod bearings, which are farthest downstream, and among the last components to receive oil when firing up a dry motor.

I polished the journal, installed new bearings, plastigaged it, and found it was about .004" loose. I buttoned it up and ran it about 100,000 miles before swapping in another 289. Haven't looked at the crank, but it always ran with a bit lower oil pressure than what I am used to with 259/289 motors. I say drop the oil pan with the motor in the car and have a look at yours' rod journal. You might get lucky, as I did, with polishing and new bearings. Or you might have to pull the motor. I'd make that call once I eyeballed the rod journals.

[PackardV8]

Good advice from all. It might be recommended to do the investigation first, dropping the pan, rotate the crankshaft so the front throw is down, pulling the rod caps, push up the rods/pistons so the journal is visible 360-degrees. Does the journal and bearings show any wear? Plastigage, reinstall, torque rod caps, remove and read the plastigage. Get back to us with what you find. It is to be hoped a solution presents itself not requiring pulling the engine.

Yes, a crankshaft R&R is better done with the engine out, except that's not always what happened in the bad old days. Here's where one of the oooold guys will remember way back when, there was a guy with a machine in the trunk of his car who traveled far and wide. A garage or dealership would call, he'd come wheeling in his machine on a hand truck, with the vehicle on a lift, he'd turn undersize one or all the rod journals with the crank still in the block, block still in the vehicle.

Sometimes, the same traveling guy would also have a boring bar. Most inline engines and early Ford V8s could be rebored in the frame.

jack vines

[Buzzard]

Yes Jack. That same traveling guy came to my rickety old house garage in greater Vancouver and turned a throw or two in a 6 cylinder Austin Healey motor I had in an A90 sedan. I was never too sure on his accuracy but he sure got around.
Bill

[Dwain G.]

Another question.....What was the hot, running oil pressure after the overhaul?

[jackb]

.......possible flex plate issue ????

[Galactica5]

.......possible flex plate issue ????

Flex plate is new.

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Another question.....What was the hot, running oil pressure after the overhaul?

60 at cold idle and 20 at warm idle.