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  • Brakes: Need Steeltech Brake Help

    Back in the 1990's, I ordered two disc brake conversion kits from Dave at Steeltech. One was his deluxe kit that included his adapter brackets, calipers, and pads. The other set was just the adapters. He sent no instructions with the kits. I called him and he told me what what rotors to buy, so I went to most wrecking yards in my area, and purchased the rotors Dave specified. Unfortunately, each and every rotor was worn way too thin, and no machine shop would turn them. So, I returned them all to the wrecking yards. I asked Dave more than once for parts needed lists and instructions, but never received such. Disappointingly, I boxed the stuff up and put it back on the shelf until a few days ago.

    It is now time for me to revisit such projects, as I have a couple cars I'd like to convert to discs. I had two phone numbers for Dave, but now neither re working. Thus, I would like to inquire of my fellow forumites if anyone knows the answers to the questions that follow.

    1) I do not remember what rotors I bought some 20 years ago. 'Seems to me they were something like Chrysler Cordoba from the early 70's, but I would not bet my life on it. Does anyone know for sure what rotors I am supposed to buy?

    2) If I buy Chinese rotors am I likely to have a problem?

    3) What do I use for inner and outer wheel bearings, races, and grease seals?

    4) What do I use for brake flex hoses?

    5) Dave said that his kits were designed to be so big, powerful, and effective that I would not need power assist. One of my intended applications is a fully loaded, 2 ton, '64 Daytona wagon. Can I indeed get by without power assist?

    6) Once installed, do Dave's brakes work well, or are people having problems?

    7) One bracket/caliper assembly has a bit of red spray paint on it, and the other assembly has a bit of blue. I presume this was to designate left from right. Does anyone know which is which?

    8) If I am successful in using the deluxe kit, I will need calipers for my "brackets only" kit to do another car. Can anyone identify these calipers so I can know what to order in the future?

    9) Is there any other info I should be aware of?

    Along with the kits he sent , there was an empty brake pad box Carquest BD85. I presume these were the pads installed on the deluxe kits. Maybe this will help someone identify what I have. Attached are a few pictures I took of both the deluxe assemblies and the brackets only. I sincerely thank you in advance for any help and guidance provided.

    Larry

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  • #2
    About 5-6 years ago, I ordered a set from him off ebay that supposedly included the rotors. I am still waiting on the rotors, but check the front porch every now and then, since I am sure he will send them any day now

    On a more serious note, if you do an archive search here yo can probably find out what rotors will fit.

    I have found nothing wrong with Chinese rotors.
    Last edited by JoeHall; 04-15-2013, 07:23 PM.

    Comment


    • #3
      Back in the 1990's, I ordered two disc brake conversion kits from Dave at Steeltech. One was his deluxe kit that included his adapter brackets, calipers, and pads. The other set was just the adapters. He sent no instructions with the kits. I called him and he told me what what rotors to buy, so I went to most wrecking yards in my area, and purchased the rotors Dave specified. Unfortunately, each and every rotor was worn way too thin, and no machine shop would turn them. So, I returned them all to the wrecking yards. I asked Dave more than once for parts needed lists and instructions, but never received such. Disappointingly, I boxed the stuff up and put it back on the shelf until a few days ago.

      It is now time for me to revisit such projects, as I have a couple cars I'd like to convert to discs. I had two phone numbers for Dave, but now neither re working. Thus, I would like to inquire of my fellow forumites if anyone knows the answers to the questions that follow.

      1) I do not remember what rotors I bought some 20 years ago. 'Seems to me they were something like Chrysler Cordoba from the early 70's, but I would not bet my life on it. Does anyone know for sure what rotors I am supposed to buy?

      Not sure, but on his original kits he used a Chrysler rotor, that (AFAIK) is now no longer available and has not been for several years.

      2) If I buy Chinese rotors am I likely to have a problem?

      HA! If you find any US made rotors, let me know, I ran Raybestoes out of US and Canadian rotors years ago. The Chinese should be ok, sometimes they get boxed wrong!


      3) What do I use for inner and outer wheel bearings, races, and grease seals?

      Studebaker used the A-2 and A-6 bearings, (as does my kit) My kit uses the 68-69 Mustang seal, like the rotor


      4) What do I use for brake flex hoses?

      Again, not sure, but if you determine a length, I can make up any brake hose for you, that will NOT be a problem, let me know the length you need and what size the banjo bolt is.

      5) Dave said that his kits were designed to be so big, powerful, and effective that I would not need power assist. One of my intended applications is a fully loaded, 2 ton, '64 Daytona wagon. Can I indeed get by without power assist?

      I do not know about his brakes, mine are smaller, and will stop a non power brake vehicle with no problem, make take just a little bit more leg power.

      6) Once installed, do Dave's brakes work well, or are people having problems?


      7) One bracket/caliper assembly has a bit of red spray paint on it, and the other assembly has a bit of blue. I presume this was to designate left from right. Does anyone know which is which?

      Try to bolt one up to a spindle, on the original Studebaker disc brakes, the caliper was in front of the king pin, they will "fit" better if they are behind the king pin


      8) If I am successful in using the deluxe kit, I will need calipers for my "brackets only" kit to do another car. Can anyone identify these calipers so I can know what to order in the future?

      Again, I "think" they are Chrysler, mid 70's? Take one to a parts store, and start looking at their calipers!


      9) Is there any other info I should be aware of?

      Along with the kits he sent , there was an empty brake pad box Carquest BD85. I presume these were the pads installed on the deluxe kits. Maybe this will help someone identify what I have. Attached are a few pictures I took of both the deluxe assemblies and the brackets only. I sincerely thank you in advance for any help and guidance provided.

      There is a start, go to car quest, ask them to look up what those pads fit! That will tell you the caliper that you have. Rotors, I do not know other than a Chrysler.

      I hope this helps,


      Jim
      "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

      We will provide the curb for you to stand on and clap!


      Indy Honor Flight www.IndyHonorFlight.org

      As of Veterans Day 2017, IHF has flown 2,450 WWII, Korean, and Vietnam Veterans to Washington DC at NO charge! to see
      their Memorials!

      Comment


      • #4
        Write it off... chalk it up to experience.... walk away...... then go buy a Turner Brake kit and forget about it. You'll be many miles ahead in the frustration department.
        Meanwhile, my car is still sporting the original disc brake conversion designed by John Kunkel back in the 70s. And I'm only on the second set of rotors ! ! ! That's cuz they're 12 inch ventilated rotors from a 68 Galaxie. And the calipers are from a 72 Chrylser. That means the brakes were intended to stop a car weighing up to 5000 lbs, and mine is barely 3400.
        Last edited by sals54; 04-15-2013, 07:58 PM.
        sals54

        Comment


        • #5
          One of his old brochures says they are 11 13/16" rotors and calipers made by Kelsey-Hayes and used by AMC, Ford, and Chrysler on their largest cars. Your calipers are 4 piston with a cross-over pipe? The paint markings could mean left and right, but just be sure the bleeders are at the top on each side when installed.
          Restorations by Skip Towne

          Comment


          • #6
            Go here for the info you seek and more. Above all, do NOT throw away the parts you have. It is a nice setup. Too bad Dave did not treat his custmers better. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...12-quot-Rotors

            Comment


            • #7
              Don't....toss any of it, it'll work just fine. Yes...do not use the thin rotors..!
              The Turner kit uses the "same" rotors, calipers, hoses, etc., etc.

              I may still have the parts rundown at home. I'll look and see if I can find it (if no one else does before that), but again, the same Ford/chrysler (rotors) and GM (calipers) are used in both kits.

              The "offshore" parts you are talking about...don't worry...just because it says Napa or whatever you favorite store is...most of it now days...comes from off shore..!

              Mike

              Comment


              • #8
                I have not used his parts but his website is still up for info only it says-----http://www.steeltechsolutions.com/
                Milt

                1947 Champion (owned since 1967)
                1961 Hawk 4-speed
                1967 Avanti
                1961 Lark 2 door
                1988 Avanti Convertible

                Member of SDC since 1973

                Comment


                • #9
                  Joe posted the entry with my box that gave the rotor #.

                  I have the Steeltech setup on the 83 Avanti when I purchased the car. If you need help I can send photos of whatever you need. Just PM if you need anything else.

                  The setup works fine, but needless to say when I ordered a system for my 74 it came from Turner Brakes. I don't see any reason not to use it though, as you have it already.

                  Bob

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I used the "big police car" kit still shown on the steeltech website. I had no trouble with the brackets or parts, they are impala based and easy to find. I did not get the rotors from steeltech, as I am fine with a chevy bolt pattern on my hot rod. I don't run a power booster, and the site says you do not have to.
                    I am un-impressed with the brakes.
                    I'm sure Jim Turner would readily agree to this statement - the system has to work as a whole. I've tried 2 different master cylinders that were built for manaul disc/drum setups, but it's still not where I want it to be. The front calipers are huge, and i don't think I can get enough fluid in there. I cannot lock up my front brakes, even when standing on them. I consider that a problem.
                    I'm getting closer to the point of tossing the steeltech stuff, and probably calling Turner.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Back in the 1990's, I ordered two disc brake conversion kits from Dave at Steeltech. I asked Dave more than once for parts needed lists and instructions, but never received such. Disappointingly, I boxed the stuff up and put it back on the shelf until a few days ago. It is now time for me to revisit such projects, as I have a couple cars I'd like to convert to discs. I had two phone numbers for Dave, but now neither re working. Thus, I would like to inquire of my fellow forumites if anyone knows the answers to the questions that follow. 1) I do not remember what rotors I bought some 20 years ago.
                      About 5-6 years ago, I ordered a set from him off ebay that supposedly included the rotors. I am still waiting on the rotors, but check the front porch every now and then, since I am sure he will send them any day now
                      Write it off... chalk it up to experience.... walk away...... then go buy a Turner Brake kit and forget about it. You'll be many miles ahead in the frustration department.
                      do NOT throw away the parts you have. It is a nice setup. Too bad Dave did not treat his custmers better.
                      Here we have a Reader's Digest Condensed book version of one of the great stories in CASO history.

                      Dave Levesque, AKA SteelTech, is a lost legend in Studebaker performance parts history, an early disciple of Dick Datson, much of his business came through DDs newsletters. Over the years, Dave developed/built/sold a good disc brake kit, offered head porting and Chevy valve conversion services, narrowed Ford 9" rear axle housings, HEI ignitions and Chevy automatic transmission adapter plates. All the parts were blacksmith quality welds and finish, usually late-to-never on delivery. No Stude fan should ever forget Dick Datson or Dave Levesque!

                      Anyway, Dave's best brake kit used 1968 Ford big car rotors. Say what we want about Chicom junk, at least they've put NLA parts back into production. The domestic supply of these rotors ran dry twenty years ago, but today they can be ordered from Rock Auto, who unlike Dave, will usually have them on your front porch within the week.
                      https://<a href="http://www.rockauto...968%2BFORD</a> Your kit and rotors may vary.

                      jack vines
                      Last edited by PackardV8; 04-16-2013, 08:05 AM.
                      PackardV8

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Michidan View Post
                        I cannot lock up my front brakes, even when standing on them. I consider that a problem.

                        Why would one want to lock up his brakes? Locking up your brakes results in a loss of control. You want them to get just to the point prior to locking for completely effective braking and maintaining control.

                        The whole point of anti-lock brakes is to keep people from locking their brakes and losing control.
                        Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Gunslinger View Post
                          Why would one want to lock up his brakes? Locking up your brakes results in a loss of control. You want them to get just to the point prior to locking for completely effective braking and maintaining control.

                          The whole point of anti-lock brakes is to keep people from locking their brakes and losing control.
                          michidan didn't say he wanted to lock up his front brakes, he said he was concerned that he couldn't lock them up, which would concern me too knowing the car didn't have the ability to lock the front brakes....how would one practice threshhold braking then? just saying, Junior.
                          sigpic
                          1954 C5 Hamilton car.

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                          • #14
                            Michidan -

                            Just using two master cylinders doesn't guartantee anything...you need to try different "piston" sizes.
                            My Dave L. brakes work just fine on my Lark. Have for the almosr 12 years I've owned it and I assume the previous owner that did the install.

                            Though I do like the brakes I made up and installed on my Conestoga.
                            Willwood calipers (4 piston), front and rear, with a Wilwood master cylinder and no booster. Stops excellent, doesn't need my 24" thigh muscle at all. Will lock the wheels if asked, but I try not to.

                            Most problems come from not matching the caliper piston sizes (all four corners) vs. the master cylinder size.

                            Mike

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten View Post
                              Michidan -

                              Just using two master cylinders doesn't guartantee anything...you need to try different "piston" sizes.
                              My Dave L. brakes work just fine on my Lark. Have for the almosr 12 years I've owned it and I assume the previous owner that did the install.

                              Though I do like the brakes I made up and installed on my Conestoga.
                              Willwood calipers (4 piston), front and rear, with a Wilwood master cylinder and no booster. Stops excellent, doesn't need my 24" thigh muscle at all. Will lock the wheels if asked, but I try not to.

                              Most problems come from not matching the caliper piston sizes (all four corners) vs. the master cylinder size.

                              Mike
                              Mike, give us more info -- what size calipers and MC did you match up?
                              Which rotors did you use? Make your own brackets?
                              64 Champ long bed V8
                              55/53 Studebaker President S/R
                              53 Hudson Super Wasp Coupe

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