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Proper Brake Bleeding

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  • Brakes: Proper Brake Bleeding

    I'm replacing everything in my '63 Hawks brake system. The shop manual doesn't address it, but does the master cylinder need to be bench bled first, and if so how is it done?

  • #2
    Yes, bench bleed first. Mount in a vise, fill with brake fluid, and make a short line from the large banjo bolt long enough to be submerged into the brake fluid, depress the piston and you'll see the bubbles in the fluid. then install. Once done, bleed the Hill Holder first, (if equipped) then rt rear, lt rear, rt front, lt front. Be sure NOT to run the M/C dry while doing it, otherwise, start all over.

    Jim
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    • #3
      I bought a Mityvac MV 6835 from Amazon. Comes with a refiller that automatically keeps the master cylinder full (even came with an adapter that allowed me to use the brake fluid bottle for the resevoir 0. This vacuum bleeder works off compressed air and is super easy to use. I just did my Avaniti without bench bleeding the MC and it worked great. A simple one man operation that allows you to evacuate all the old fluid while bleeding the system.

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      • #4


        Robert Kapteyn

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        • #5
          If everything is dry it doesn't matter if you "bench bleed" it or not , it just makes things messier in my opinion. Even when only replacing the master I don't "bench bleed" it, because it's probably time to change the fluid anyway and I know by time I get the air out of each line the old fluid has been replaced with new.

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